Front Wheel Bearing Replacements Hard Job?

[rallying1]

Anyone done it on a 2003 d4d?

Anyone got a how to guide at all if it's not too hard?

Thanks .

[gjnorthall]

Basically...............

- Remove the road wheel and undo the hub nut - it's tight and you're unlikely to have a socket large enough. You may need to improvise a tool to prevent the hub turning - a flat bar across the wheel studs is fine but protect the threads.

- Remove the brake pads, calliper, calliper support and brake disc - tie the calliper to prevent it hanging on the brake hose.

- Support the driveshaft by tying with a length of rope to prevent it dropping as the hub is withdrawn.

- Remove the track rod from the hub - screw type joint splitter required.

- Remove the bottom joint - splitter required.

- Remove the bolt attaching the hub to the strut - take the weight of the hub as the bolt is withdrawn.

- Remove the hub - tapping the CV joint stub out of the hub with a hide hammer.

- You now have the hub body to work with on the bench - remove the brake dirt shield.

- On the inside of the hub body - remove the large retaining clip.

- Support the hub body and from the inner face - drive out the hub with a drift. It's likely that the outer race of the bearing with remain on the hub and will need to be removed with a puller.

- Support the hub body and press out the remainder of the bearing. You can improvise using a bench vise using sockets as spacers.

- The new bearing can be pulled into the hub body using a threaded bar, the old bearing and some large washers - pressure must only be applied to the outer part of the bearing. Fit a new securing clip.

- Similarly the hub can be drawn into the bearing but pressure must only be applied to the inner race!

- Refit the dirt shield

- Refit the hub body etc etc

It's quite a straightforward job - the only issue is that you'll need a couple of tools you may not have.

[rallying1]

top stuff , thank you very much/

[gjnorthall]

Just as an aside - changing a FWB on 06> models is far easier than the 4.2 described above. The bearing comes as an assembly with a new hub already fitted and just bolts to the hub body with 4 bolts - no messing about with pressing out the old bearing / pressing in the new bearing. The rear wheel bearings on the 4.2 and 4.3 also come as a bolt on assembly and are a cinch to fit - though the rears rarely fail.

[crustyclam]

Basically...............

- Remove the road wheel and undo the hub nut - it's tight and you're unlikely to have a socket large enough. You may need to improvise a tool to prevent the hub turning - a flat bar across the wheel studs is fine but protect the threads.

- Remove the brake pads, calliper, calliper support and brake disc - tie the calliper to prevent it hanging on the brake hose.

- Support the driveshaft by tying with a length of rope to prevent it dropping as the hub is withdrawn.

- Remove the track rod from the hub - screw type joint splitter required.

- Remove the bottom joint - splitter required.

- Remove the bolt attaching the hub to the strut - take the weight of the hub as the bolt is withdrawn.

- Remove the hub - tapping the CV joint stub out of the hub with a hide hammer.

- You now have the hub body to work with on the bench - remove the brake dirt shield.

- On the inside of the hub body - remove the large retaining clip.

- Support the hub body and from the inner face - drive out the hub with a drift. It's likely that the outer race of the bearing with remain on the hub and will need to be removed with a puller.

- Support the hub body and press out the remainder of the bearing. You can improvise using a bench vise using sockets as spacers.

- The new bearing can be pulled into the hub body using a threaded bar, the old bearing and some large washers - pressure must only be applied to the outer part of the bearing. Fit a new securing clip.

- Similarly the hub can be drawn into the bearing but pressure must only be applied to the inner race!

- Refit the dirt shield

- Refit the hub body etc etc

It's quite a straightforward job - the only issue is that you'll need a couple of tools you may not have.

Lol, straight forward.....no wonder I always take mine to the garage!!