O2 Sensor (B2 S1) Why Shouldn't I Go For A Cheaper Version?

[ShamblesX]

After 2 years of letting the missus drive around with P1135 (B1 S1) I fitted a Denso from Europarts, costing £102 and a bleeding knuckle.

That sure cleared the code but I was then instantly faced with a P1155 (B2 S1) which is spooky to say the least.

So I now think I'll rap another knuckle or two and order another lamda sensor, which I'm sure is as marked on the pic below (pic courtesy of Leodanger in this post) (thanks).

Question is, as it's now a "right" sensor, could I get away with the cheaper one from Europarts (their part number is 710822300 (link here)) or am I asking for trouble with this cheaper sensor?

[gjnorthall]

Europarts sell the same part number on eBay for £43!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Walker-Oxygen-O2-Lambda-Exhaust-Sensor-Probe-TOYOTA-RAV-4-2-0-VVT-I-4WD-/350983501657

Whilst Denso and NTK are recognised as top quality brands - Walker is a good US brand so I'm sure it will be fine - avoid unknown / no brand units or universal units requiring wires to be cut and joined. My only concern is that this part is listed for bank 1 and 2. Usually the connectors are different on each bank so this needs checking out on your car.

[ShamblesX]

Hey thanks for the info, and the link.

It's a shame the listings say "picture for illustration purposes only" as I'd like to see the actual connectors shown on that, plus others listed. Not averse to a bit of cut-and-shut though, if push comes to shove :)

[ShamblesX]

... avoid unknown / no brand units or universal units requiring wires to be cut and joined. My only concern is that this part is listed for bank 1 and 2. Usually the connectors are different on each bank so this needs checking out on your car.

Spot on - the Walker connector needed surgery (black-black twice, white-white, blue-blue)

[ShamblesX]

Related question (as a follow up)...

Both my O2 sensor codes are now cleared but the CEL/MIL remains, with no codes showing (pending, current or historic).

This cannot be normal behaviour, can it? I cleared the light with my Torque Android app but it returns within 30 seconds. Is it likely to clear itself permanently after a few miles?

[gjnorthall]

It requires a fault code to illuminate the MIL so something strange going on. Suggest disconnecting the Battery for an hour - this in itself won't extinguish the light but will restore factory settings to the ECU and delete any corrupted values. The ECU will then need to relearn - takes about half an hours driving - thereafter, hopefully, the MIL can be extinguished permanently.

[ShamblesX]

Thanks, GJ, I shall give that a whirl when the good lady returns

[ShamblesX]

It's official.

I hate sensors.

Decoupled the Battery for an hour, started the Rav and there was no CEL, for about 15 seconds. Then on it came; I queried the error code and once again none showed.

Two minutes later I got my P1155 (B2 S1) code back.

It's in for a service next week so I'l leave it upto MrT to advise further.

Thanks for the assistance though...

[pmb]

That's the usual fault with the heater circuit going o/c. Between the 2 black wires it should measure about 15 ohms but I suspect it won't do hence throwing up the mil.

[ShamblesX]

So maybe I bought an under-specced sensor?

It wouldn't surprise me with my luck

[ShamblesX]

Ok I'd like some confirmation if possible:

Referring to the sensor arrowed in the photo in post #1, can someone confirm that it's classed as "right" (as opposed to "left")?

Reason for asking, is that I've decided to purchase yet another sensor, this time a Denso from Eurocarparts, but their "right" sensor listing (link) states "in front of catalyst" where I thought the "right" sensor was "after catalyst"

[gjnorthall]

Convention is that reference to right and left relates to someone sitting in the car so the arrowed sensor is right. The right and left sensors at the top of the engine, as shown in the pic, are "in front of catalyst" i.e. upstream of the cat. On cars will multiple sensors - it's often possible to double check the cable length of the installed unit and compare with the catalogued value for each sensor - the lengths of the 4 cables on the 4.1 are significantly different.

[ShamblesX]

Ah righty.

So it looks like I bought the wrong one with the Walker "post cat" sensor, as linked in my first post

That could explain a few things...

[gjnorthall]

Fingers crossed this time - at least the Lambda will unscrew easily this time!

[ShamblesX]

Fingers crossed this time - at least the Lambda will unscrew easily this time!

It did, and we are now free of amber warning lights