P1135 Fault Code - Help !

[Mike169]

Hi Terry, a good person to chat to about this is Raistlin, a Super Moderator, of course we all have our own opinions and his i feel sure may not be the same as mine.

Yes we can buy code readers for under £20, i have one, and using this site you can find out the probable cause of your cars problem once you have a fault code with lots of good advise. If all goes well you can sort your problem more cheaply that way, if unfortunately the problem still exists then time to rethink what to do.

Whatever route you choose i wish you the best and please let us know how you get on so to benefit others.

Regards Mike.

[Grumpy stumpy]

Mike, I see what you are saying but MR T will charge you £99.00 just to plug a code reader in to tell you what you can easily find out yourself. Agreed some codes will not show up on the cheaper code readers but if you have the money then go to dealer. Me will try to repair the fault myself if get stuck go to good local Independant dealer. Toyota quoted 12 hours to replace the 5th gear assembly , did it myself with help on here in three.. Saved a fortune.

Terry most likely going to be a oxygen sensor as seems to be the only thing which ever goes wrong with the Rav so a job you can do yourself. And reset with a cheap code reader. Norm has still got his light on for some reason which is unusual but I would not give up with his yet only after trying all options and still no success would I take it to main dealer.

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Hi guys,

Thought I would give you a quick update. Took her in for the MOT today, light stayed off on the journey to the garage ( about 4 miles ) When I got there I mention the problem to the owner who's been in the business for a long time and I've been going there for MOT' s etc for the last 15 years, he said that the ECU has to go through more than one duty cycle depending on which sensor it is and needs to reprogram it's self with the new sensor.

Anyway it sailed through the emissions test but did fail on a rusty front to back brake pipe, which they've done and I've now got her back. Still got three advises, slight rust on a near side rear brake pipe, mid to rear exhaust flange rusting quite badly and both front brake discs and pads worn - looks like I've got some work to do when the weathers better !

Light still hasn't come back on so fingers crossed it seems like he may be right. He seemed confident and said he seen this scenario many times before.

I must admit if you're not very mechanically or electrically minded then it's sometimes safer to go to a garage ( I wouldn't go to a main dealer personally unless really desperate ) have a chat with friends etc and see where they take they're car. You can't beat personal recommendations. Small independent garages rely on word of mouth for they're business so need to do a good job at a reasonable price to stay in business. It's takes a lot of hard work to get a good reputation, but only a little bad work to lose it.

Norm

[Grumpy stumpy]

Fingers crossed sorted now then. If problems I can,t sort I always use ROYS MOTOR COMPANY Norwich , Independant toyota/lexus and have done for the last 25 + years for my lexus servicing and any probs! can't beat them. Least we have toyota's , got job to do on neighbours mondeo Wednesday, always seem to be something on that !!

[Mike169]

Hi Grumpy Stumpy, i hope you are ok. I have done some research that it is only possible to turn off the seat belt buzzer using the Toyota's own technician system named Techstream if the car has a stop/start system. On certain cars it is possible to go through a sequence which are key started, it is shown on You Tube but not on mine.

Combination meter

Display (Item) Default Function Setting

Seat Belt Warning D/P ON

Seat belt warning buzzer

ON / OFF setting

D/P ON: Driver and

passenger buzzer ON

D ON: Driver buzzer ON

P ON: Passenger buzzer

ON

D/P OFF: Driver and

passenger buzzer OFF

Of course i don't want to pay Mr T's silly high price to do the job and they won't do it anyway on safety grounds.

This is Mr T's official reply to my request.

Regarding you seat belt warning bleeper, there is no way of turning this sound off as it is a safety requirement on all vehicles nowadays, so unfortunately you have been mis-informed if you have been told this can be turned off (as you are not supposed to be driving without a seatbelt on anyway) It may be annoying but that is exactly what it is supposed to do to make sure your aware the seat belt is clipped in.

Sorry I am unable to help with this

Kind regards

BUT my car goes for a service in 2 weeks and the buzzer will be sorted just after that FOC, i'll let you all know how it all goes.....i'm doing the buzzer afterwards just incase Mr T resets/reinstates it.

Norm, i really hope your car is sorted mate and what your MOT tester said makes sense, normally of course the fault code would be cancelled at the OBD socket but i know it say you chip a car you have to leave it ticking over for a while to give the computers time to readjust to the new equipment so fingers crossed for you mate and i would of learnt something more in this game, we never stop learning and perhaps i'll be eating humble pie if it all goes your way but i'd rather that and your car is sorted

Kind Regards to you both, Mike

[Mike169]

Norm, just curious, how's your light/fault code now, has the car reset itself and (Hopefully) all is ok?

Mike

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Hi Mike,

I decided not to post every day as I'm sure people were getting fed up with the now it's on now it's off replies ! Basically after the MOT the !Removed! light came on again on the way to my sisters later that day ( about 4 miles from ours ) I checked with the code reader before I left hers ( it lives in the car now !! ) and there were two codes ! P0420 & P0430 - these are to do with catalytic converter below expected efficiency. I'm now thinking what the the heck's going on here, she passed the emissions test less than 6 hrs earlier with flying colours, how can the CAT have deteriorated enough to put the light on that quickly ?

Anyway I reset them and so far I've only done 3 or 4 short trips round town ( mostly stuck in traffic ) and the lights stayed off. Now I'm thinking either the ECU had to sort it self out after the sensor change, as the MOT guy said or it is faulty and it'll start up all over again !

Hopefully the former! I should be out and about this weekend doing a few more miles so we'll see what happens.

Regards,

Norm

[Mike169]

Hi Norm.

Sorry to read your car is still playing about, i was just wondering if it would be worth you phoning your local Toyota dealer and blag it a bit and say your car is messing about and ask if they charge for them to do a diagnosis test letting them feel they'd get a job out of it.........just a phone call to start with asking if they do FOC checks basically. I am all for saving money but i would hate to think of you changing bit by bit, especially the CAT for obvious reasons. I do know there are certain things that can't be done with our cheapie code readers and wondering if you need your car plugged into what i believe is called their 'Techstream' system?

Plan B.........have you heard of 'Kingo' on here, he may even read this post, a very intelligent Toyota parts man and very helpful, i am sure he would be happy to steer you in the right direction, maybe send him a Personal Message?

If you don't want to leave posts on here you are welcome to 'PM' me on how you get on?

Regards Mike.

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Hi Mike,

I'll probably do that if it keeps playing up, Phil has given me the name of the technician he speaks to at a Toyota dealer if he gets stuck. At the moment all is ok, when driving it today it also seemed smoother and slightly more responsive so the ECU learning / adjusting theory might be right.

I don't know what the life of a C/ converter is but I'm guessing with the modern low sulphur fuels etc, they last longer than they used to.

I really hope it's sorted as I have the front discs & pads to do when the weather's warmer, and also want to mod the exhaust ( looking at going the twin route ! )

Norm

[Mike169]

Hi Norm, just a thought, does your car smoke a lot either black (Too much fuel) or blue (Too much oil) like is your engine getting a bit tired and you have to keep putting engine oil in it? Either way would of course clog up the Cat, personally i have only ever had to have one Cat replaced and that was because something came loose inside and sounded like a baffle rattling in a silencer.

Good luck, Mike.

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Hi Mike,

My old girl is surprisingly good on oil consumption, I put in less than 1/2 litre between oil changes ( 5000 miles ) I never see any black smoke, the exhaust is fairly clean and very occasionally if she's been standing for a week I get a small puff of blue smoke but only on start up.

I'd associate this with a bit of wear in the valve stem oil seals. I've had engines like this in the past, in fact the old Ford Orion I had took three years to get to the point where I did the seals, and even this was mainly because two of the hydraulic tappets got really noisy.

When I change the oil I use a semi-synthetic 5w - 40w Halfords oil this is labeled as meeting Fords specs, which having checked meet or exceed the Toyota ones.

I really do think now the only fault was the initial one where the bank one air/fuel sensor failed, having replaced this, I think the ECU just needed to adjust itself to the new sensor.

Norm

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Quick update, been running the car round all week now, done about 100 miles and no more fault light ! So hopefully now all ok

Norm

[Mike169]

Sounding good

[terryhawes]

Hi, just a quick update, plugged in the scanner which is showing DTC 420 (catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1)

googled it & it could be an exhaust leak or a new set of spark plugs. I probably need to open a new topic. bye for now regards - Terry

[Steve Graham]

Norm - if you're still subscribed to this thread - can you expand a bit on why an ordinary ring spanner wouldn't work very well?

I've just ordered a replacement sensor (from the same eBay seller as it happens) and I hope I can manage the work myself. I would buy the specialist socket set if necessary.

In my case, it's an intermittent P2238 fault code: same sensor, but a different problem.

[pmb]

Steve - I thought it was to do with the wire needing a slot in the spanner to pass out of but may be wrong.

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Hi Steve,

From memory watching Phil fit the new one, even if you can get a ring spanner on it, there's not enough room to turn it with out hitting other components. The socket set def makes things much easier and isn't that expensive - around £20. Also the sensor can be very tight ( mine wasn't that bad ) needs to be done with the engine warm, and you need a good long heat proof glove on to prevent burns from the exhaust.

Given that there are 4 sensors on the exhaust, the socket may also come useful in the future. The other sensors are not as accessible as the bank 1 sensor 1 one either.

HTH

Norm

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Paul, a ring spanner will go over the wire once it's unplugged, what you can't use is a std socket because of the wire, bit like trying to take a spark plug out with the HT wire still connected ! The special socket set is def. the way to go.

Norm

[Steve Graham]

Many thanks for the replies. Since I posted the question, I've been browsing the net and a number of people complain that the deep socket with the large slot in the side can flex open and slip round the hex part of the sensor if it puts up a lot of resistance.

That's a worry for me, since it's been in there for 10 years. I wonder if it would be better to cut off the wires and use an ordinary deep socket to extract the old sensor.

[pmb]

Paul, a ring spanner will go over the wire once it's unplugged, what you can't use is a std socket because of the wire, bit like trying to take a spark plug out with the HT wire still connected ! The special socket set is def. the way to go.

Norm

I did wonder if the ring spanner would be wide enough for the connector on the end without looking under the bonnet but agree about the special socket.

Steve - When Mr T did my 2 faulty ones they were also concerned about getting them out without causing further damage. PS I used to work with a guy with the same name as you!

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Many thanks for the replies. Since I posted the question, I've been browsing the net and a number of people complain that the deep socket with the large slot in the side can flex open and slip round the hex part of the sensor if it puts up a lot of resistance.

That's a worry for me, since it's been in there for 10 years. I wonder if it would be better to cut off the wires and use an ordinary deep socket to extract the old sensor.

Hi Steve,

The set that Phil used had a short version socket with a slot for the wire, which he used to loosen the sensor, but was more awkward to use, once loose he switched to the deeper version to undo it completely. Phil can probably confirm or correct me built I think the set he had was a Sealey set, just looked on the net and they're around £25 - £30 but can be bought a bit cheaper on eBay.

Make sure the set you get is a 6 point hex rather than a 12 point - less chance of it slipping.

Probably worth buying as there's much less chance of damaging the new sensor with the socket system.

Norm

[Grumpy stumpy]

Hi norm hope you are well, yes can confirm my set was a sealy set around £25, it has a deep socket plus a couple of crows foot type angled ones. Worth every penny and good quality.

Steve just get engine nice and hot, be carefull not to burn yourself and it will undo ok with proper socket if you use a ill fitting spanner/socket and round edges off you will be in trouble.

This is the set I have ,same as item number on eBay 180731194768 includes a couple of thread chasers so you can clean thread up if damaged.

Hope this helps.

[Steve Graham]

Many thanks, Phil & Norm. (Have just ordered the Sealey set.)

[Steve Graham]

The socket set arrived and worked perfectly. However, when I started the car with the new sensor installed it threw up a P0031 error - high current in the heater circuit.

And indeed, the resistance of the heater is 1 ohm, compared to 2.5 on the old one. I've reinstalled the old sensor, (the P2238 error was intermittent anyway) and I'll contact the sensor vendor.

[Grumpy stumpy]

Steve, don't know if this is the same as what happened to Norms, but i know his took about a week for the fault to settle down after the sensor was changed, it brought a few faults in until the ecu sorted itself.