Rav 4 2.0L Petrol

[johnjames]

can anyone help with this i have a rav 4 2.0 l petrol with 69000 miles it is 2001 a few weeks back it stated to run eratic and then cut out, the diagnostic said 02 sensor which i replaced but it is still not idling and after a few revs it stops most timed it wont start until i remove the efi relay and when i put it back it starts when reving the mil light flashes but no code is coming up sometimes the mil light goes out altogether even with ignition on until efi relay is taken out and put back ,any ideas anyone please

[gjnorthall]

Not entirely sure I understand what's happening re the relay removal. On a positive note however - you have no stored fault codes. This particular model suffers from a gunged idle control valve / throttle body usually at about the mileage you've covered. Symptoms are erratic idle / stalling. In the light of no stored codes - I'd go ahead and clean the TB / ICV - if you search on this forum, you'll find a detailed job method. I suggest you buy the TB to manifold gasket, ICV gasket and the three screws which secure the ICV to the throttle valve - part numbers are in the job method. The three screws mentioned can be tight and damage very easily. Use a good screwdriver of the correct size and give each screw a sharp tap to break the seal before attempting to remove. Tape over the manifold opening as soon as you lift the TB - it wouldn't be the first time that one of the small coolant pipe clips have fallen into the manifold when removing the 2 coolant pipes.

The job method is here

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/128068-2000-toyota-rav42-1azfe-throttle-body-and-icv-idle-control-valve-cleaning-diy/

Please note that the part number for the three ICV body screws given in the job method is not correct. Correct number is 21821-25180

[johnjames]

thank you very much i will give this a try and see if it cures it.

[johnjames]

i have cleaned the cat and tb also the fuel pump ocv as well i also clean any earth at engine bay 3 that i could find no change it still lopping and cutting out she will rev up and just cuts out the engine management light flickers but no code sometimes when she cuts out the eml does not come with the ignition but if i remove the efi relay and put it back the eml comes on and the car will start and do same thing al over again . if anyone has had this problem or can help in any way please do

[firemac]

Have you checked the feed & earth to the fuse boxes themselves? From my 4.2 memory I seem to recall that there are two, one in the cabin & another in the engine bay.

Good luck.

[johnjames]

the latest with this is if i turn on ignition the only light that comes on is the airbag light the dials go a bit crazy for a couple of seconds then settle down but still no dash lights (ign light oil light etc ) but electric windows work also the immobiliser light is not coming on at all the Battery is fully charged could it be a faulty ignition switch that has been the problem all along or something along those lines

[johnjames]

i have found a bad connection inside the lower part of the fuse box but after loosening the bolt at the top i cannot seem to get it to lift out i know the two clusters of cables has to come up with it but i cannot get them to budge . anyone know if they are just stiff or any special clip holding it in

[johnjames]

the saga continues now i have got the fuses sorted i am getting the following codes when the car lets me into the diagnostics p0141 bank 1 sensor2 p0161 bank 2 sensor 2 p 1656 ocvc bank 1 malfuction any ideas anyone .

[Raistlin]

As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0141.

My wild guess is there is a loose plug to some sensor or the sensor has gone bad. The best thing is to take it to Toyota for service that won't waste a lot of time and money guessing and experimenting.

[johnjames]

when checking the feed to b1s1 and b2s1 i unplugged the both sensors and started the car i have a constant feed when i put it to car earth but the car still cuts out when i put the feed to the other pin in the plug i have a feed but the feed drops when the car start cutting out i am totally lost as where or what could be making this happen has anyone any ideas it appears the power to sensors it causing the car to cut out