Timing Chain On 1.3

[KermitTheYaris]

Is the timing chain and its components a life time part?

Mine has 164,000 miles and FSH from Toyota and independent garages. Can I inspect it visually or is it a part that needs replacing after miles/years?

[Devon Aygo]

Yes the chain is designed to last the vehicle life and as such has no replacement schedule. To inspect fully you would have to remove the cam cover and timing case cover, not an easy job.

[KermitTheYaris]

Yes the chain is designed to last the vehicle life and as such has no replacement schedule. To inspect fully you would have to remove the cam cover and timing case cover, not an easy job.

That's the thing that gets me. "life of the vehicle". I can't find any used Yaris' (Yarii?) with mileage as high as mine.

[Cyker]

As long as it's getting regular oil changes, should be okay.

Not 100% with the petrols, but with the diesel ones the chain allegedly gets noticeably more rattly when it wants replacing.

We had a few people here who had 6-figure Yarisusesasis but most of them don't seem to be around anymore :(

My one is still on baby mileage compared to yours! (Less than a third of your one's mileage! )

I think the all-knowing madasafish might have one that's in that ballpark of mileage...?

[KermitTheYaris]

Hmm OK, I have noticed the engine is a little "tappy" after my last oil change but I think it needs a valve adjustment or maybe the oil I used is the wrong viscosity, the owner's manual seem to have all the common oils listed... hmm.

[Madasafish]

Did you use an original Toyota oil filter? If not, you may be getting low oil pressure at start up.. which could lead to valve wear..

I changed son's timing chain at 93k miles - gross abuse from prior owners - no oil changes for 40k miles.

It is NOT a simple nor easy job. unless you are an experienced and competent mechanic..

[Cyker]

How did you know to change it, or was it just the rattling?

[Madasafish]

How did you know to change it, or was it just the rattling?

It rattled: very noisily at startup. And very noisily when warm.

Like there was a little man in the engine with a hammer trying to be a drummer...and when the engine speeded up, he went frantic...

He bought it very cheaply ...:-)

[iiroh]

Hi, I have a 2008 Yaris with 2SZ-FE 1.3 engine. Around 50.000 miles and my local Toyota dealer is positive that

the timing chain is stretched. They decline responsibility since some oil changes were not made according

to maintenance schedule. That was during previous owner´s time.

I have been repairing my cars and engines for +25 years but I read above that the chain change is not an

easy job. Could someone experienced specify what is the hardest part here, I am not afraid of using

enough hours on the job, but do you need special tools like chain sprocket extractors etc for this job ?

If chain is stretched, do you also need to replace the sprockets on the crankshaft and in the VVTi system ?

Thank you, Iiro

[Madasafish]

I don't know a 2008 Yaris but the job on a 1.0 2001 Yaris went as follows: so assume it is roughly the same. (from memory so don't take it as correct)

jack up car and remove driver side wheel and engine undertray.

Remove cam cover and all the ignition coils etc.

jack engine up under drivers side.

Remove engine mounting.

Remove crankshaft pulley nut.. This is very tight and requires proper tools and a locking mechanism to stop the crankshaft turning (I made my own - there is a guide somewhere on the site if you search).

Remove auxiliary belts and drive wheels on the crankshaft case.

Remove crankshaft case.

Remove oil filled chain tensioner.

Remove various odds and sods and chain tensioners and guides.

Note despite the chain being very worn and the oil filled tensioner being clapped out, the other various guides were all OK but I replaced them anyway.

Refit with new sealing compound. ( Toyota specify a gray one.. Takes 12 hours to harden..

You really need to buy a Haynes manual to find the correct order pf what to do. And you NEED to have or borrow the requisite tools..And you need to undo with the crankshaft in the correct position. And you need to reassemble with the timing marks lined up.

If you have never replaced a timing chain before, I recommend you don't try it. Too many things to go wrong.

You MUST be a competent mechanic to do it..

The sprockets in this case and VVTI system were OK.. they appear pretty robust. Timing chain was changed at 93K miles. Now on 135K and engine still quiet.

Timing chains wear quickly with dirty or poor quality oil.

I reckon you need at least 12 hours to do the job altho' with experience a lot less. And a 12 hour wait for the sealant to fully set (it does not harden just becomes very viscous.)

[iiroh]

Thanks a lot Masadafish. Does not sound too bad, I have changed belts 4-5 times to various

cars, but never a chain, should not be that different, I guess.

I am confident to do the job myself, but I still have a few more questions:

1) Where did you get the parts ? I see chain kits in eBay for £80-90 but I am not sure about the quality.

OEM chain + 3 chain guides are nearly £170 here in Finland.

2) This gray sealing compound, do you recall any brands and types for this compound, in the following

youtube video this guy is using Loctite 1372, which happens to also gray in colour...

www.youtube.com/watch?v=2d6cwjiuPeA

(see around 29:25 minutes)

3) If you can easily find the instruction for the flywheel DIY lock tool, please, let me know. However, I will try

a search myself, too.

Thanks again, Iiro

[Madasafish]

iiroh

I bought the parts from Toyota.. approx £200 for all chain plus tensioners.

Sealing compound? Loctite. I used 5699.

Tool?

Looks like this..http://tinyurl.com/klsguk3

I made mine from flat bar and used nuts and bolts rather than welding...

see post #25 http://tinyurl.com/mx8k59a

[iiroh]

Thanks again Madasafish, this is a wonderful forum !

Iiro

[tardeli]

On 6/10/2014 at 12:00 PM, KermitTheYaris said:

Hmm OK, I have noticed the engine is a little "tappy" after my last oil change but I think it needs a valve adjustment or maybe the oil I used is the wrong viscosity, the owner's manual seem to have all the common oils listed... hmm.

I used to use Comma 10/30 in mine 2002 87.000 miles for afew years and it's never been rattly/tappy it's a sweet engine then i switched to Magnatec 5/30 2 yrs ago and it made it even quieter,really suprised.I do little miles so Magnatec is ideal for me and it's good for the winter months and town use/stop start.