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Attempting A Clutch Change On A D4D 2004 Avensis 1Cd-Ftv


avensisd4d786
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Time has come where I have to put my hand in my wallet and buy a clutch kit. plus I do no want to leave it until winter.

I have a new LuK flywheel already.

I can get a genuine clutch kit from Toyota for £160 ish on the trade.

or a LuK for £97 from local motor factors.

which one should I go for, me being a tight a** I am tempted to go with the cheaper one.

I am equipped with the corolla 1cd-ftv haynes manual,avensis t25 workshop manual and most importantly teabags.

I will have a friend helping me who has plenty of experience on other cars, first time on a Toyota, he's more of a VAG man.

Can anyone give me any advice or what to watch out for etc.

I have plenty of time to do it, so no rush. if someone could take a bit of time share their advise it would be grateful.

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Can't offer much in the way of advice mate but good luck with it all the same. :)

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Hello, Colleagues,

Just decided to change my Avensis 2003 year, 2,0 d4d gear box oil. Bought Liqui Moly Hochleistungs-Getriebeöl (GL4+) SAE 75 W-90. After purchase, mentioned that on the botle is written specification: Liqui Moly Hochleistungs-Getriebeöl (GL4+) SAE 75 W-90 (GL4/GL5). So little bit confused :disgust: Can I use it for my gear box? Manual says, that suitable only SAE 75 W-90 GL-4. Liqui Moly catalouge says, that suitable for this car is Hochleistungs-Getriebeöl (GL4+) SAE 75 W-90. So, use it or leave it ?

Thanks

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Just done one on a Rav4......It was pretty straight forward....Just lots to unbolt etc.......I marked up all the nuts and bots and put them in seperate bags...helped me loads putting it all back together again...

The starter motor had a hidden bolt.....but it may be different on the Avensis

The slave cylinder pistion needed pushing all the way back, in order to get all the air out of it while pressure bleeding..

Instead for prising the CV joint out of the gear box (which I could not do, frightened of damaging it) I just broke the gator CV clip, gearbox side and pulled it out that way.... Glad I did because after 90k the CV grease had turned into an oily liquid and just dripped out, Replaced it with some good quality Moby Grease......another job done......no doubt the rear cv joints need new grease if the fronts were that bad...

I fitted an LUK flywheel and clutch kit too.......Same kit as an Avensis according to LUK....Glad I went DMF and not SMF.....just hope it last another 90k

£437 just for the parts..... :dontgetit: and thats cheap...some DMF are £1000 upwards

Other that that you just have to plod on..

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Thank you so much for the input John.

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no problem anything I can help you with just let know.....I have the water pump and timimg belt to do...so may need some help too soon.. :doctor:

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no problem anything I can help you with just let know.....I have the water pump and timimg belt to do...so may need some help too soon.. :doctor:

that is my next job too. what make are you going for on t/ belt and pump?

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For the timing belt kit I went for LUK. as thats what my DMF and Clutch kit was. You get the 2 pulleys the tensioner and the belt £115 all in from Amazon LUK part number 530054310

http://www.amazon.co.uk/INA-530-0543-10-Timing/dp/B00DQDMUUG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1402846421&sr=1-1&keywords=INA+530+0543+10+Timing+Belt+Kit

Luk parts website,

http://toc.luk-as.de/toc/en/4B9EC293511DEA9AC0BA2ED843641AAF.srv;jsessionid=4B9EC293511DEA9AC0BA2ED843641AAF?view=VIndexFramesetJsp

For the water pump the prices varied a lot on these but went for an FAI one from eBay £39, comes with 2 gaskets in a huge box and 2 year warranty.....I was suprised just how big it is.....Hope its ok...Looks great, but also looks a pain to fit... :disgust:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A263722-FAI-WATER-PUMP-TOYOTA-RAV-4-2-0-D-4D-4WD-05-/371013428613?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ARAV+4&hash=item56621fa585

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Just had a look at it today.......Its very tight in there on a Rav4 not sure if the Avensis is the same, I only managed to get the top timing cover off, before deciding this is going to be an all day job, if not more.....

As the access is so tight im going to have to remove all sorts just to make room, The water pump looks well burried under pullys belts etc....

All the drive belt pullys on mine look rusted and oily, so im going to be spending a lot of time just cleaning and maybe replacing parts I did not want too. Just ordered the 2 drive belts too, as while im in there it would be rude not too....

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John I have sent you a little message.

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out of interest, is your water pump leaking?... if not, why change it?.... there seems to be a myth in the industry now that you always have to change the pump with belt... but that's based on GM and French cars, who use poor components. the official Toyota kit only includes belt and an optional tensioner.

On the avensis, the job is straightforward, but 1st time around, took me a day (PITA to get the bottom pulley off, as I had to make a puller)

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Im just covering all avenues. ..my engine is now on 91k I plan on keeping the car for a while...so while im in there id rather change the lot so there is no need to ever go back in there, well not while I still own the car...

I won't know the state of the water pump until its opened up...if the water pump was run of an aux belt I would just leave it until it failed as no harm would be caused to the engine.....as mine is run from the timing belt if it fails it will throw the belt and cause my pistons to smash into my valves and serious engine damage...

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obviously your choice and your piece of mind.

I have the same engine... I did mine at about 100,000 (wasn't done by previous owner) ... but the water pump was dry and the bearing solid.. no side-way movement and smooth rotation.

I used blueprint belt and tensioner .... the old tensioner was still in spec, but I fitted the new one as I had it... all the rollers were smooth.

One thing that struck me (after many years working on Euro cars), was the quality of the engineering.. superb design ... just watch out getting the alignment on the fuel pump ...need some tension on the belt to get it right... it seems mine was one tooth out... once I put it right it's been much quieter, smoother engine.

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Jumbojake I know Toyota do not recommend changing the waterpump unless its leaking.They don't even recommend you change any of the tensioners unless faulty. I mean you have done all that work/labour in some cases might aswell put a pump in, I know the Toyota one is around £110 I'm sure you could pick up a aftermarket for 40/50. ie blueprint

this is what honest John says.

13-7-2013: On belt-cam 2.0 litre diesel engines the waterpump must be replaced at the same time as the timing belt. They are prone to breaking up and when they do they throw the belt off.

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Jumbojake I know Toyota do not recommend changing the waterpump unless its leaking.They don't even recommend you change any of the tensioners unless faulty. I mean you have done all that work/labour in some cases might aswell put a pump in, I know the Toyota one is around £110 I'm sure you could pick up a aftermarket for 40/50. ie blueprint

this is what honest John says.

13-7-2013: On belt-cam 2.0 litre diesel engines the waterpump must be replaced at the same time as the timing belt. They are prone to breaking up and when they do they throw the belt off.

I agree some said their water pump felt rough to turn and some had signs of weeping....

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I have 2 genuine Toyota water pumps for sale on eBay if anyone is interested in a deal...

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I have 2 genuine Toyota water pumps for sale on Ebay if anyone is interested in a deal...

I would of had them if they were for the 1cd-ftv engine

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I have 2 genuine Toyota water pumps for sale on Ebay if anyone is interested in a deal...

I would of had them if they were for the 1cd-ftv engine

Have you checked the part number to see if they can fit? I would have thought that the water pumps would be the same on the oil burners! If I get a chance I'll do a Google search. But atm I have a guy interested in the DMF & clutch kit that I need to try and sort out! Btw guys! This is beging sold for less than I bought if from Anchorman!

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I have checked, my water pump 1cd-ftv is a lot larger and ours is run via the cam belt not the aux belt like yours.

look at post 12 by me that will show you the pic.

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/160298-20d4d-water-pump-replacement/page-2

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Finally done no pics for a guide as weather wasn't on our side.Sorry

I followed the Toyota workshop manual clutch.pdf provided by Pete in this thread. Thank you

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/120775-05-avensis-clutch-pedal-squeak-l700/

I also followed the Haynes corolla 1cd-ftv but didn't have to remove front exhaust. I did have to remove middle part of subframe. the metal bar that goes across middle.

Bono also provided this too.

http://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/clutch-replacement-toyota-rav4-d4d Thank you

my bottom engine covers are still not on yet, neither is top one. Im watching out for any leaks etc.

I thought I would clean throttle and egr whilst easy access. I also managed to change the gearbox bushes that I bought a while back, new gearbox oil too. 75/90 as my owners manual recommended. I greased all contact areas in the gearbox.

Gear selection is very smooth, still a long throw, gear linkage cables on the to do list.

I now know my way a lot around the engine bay overall it was a good experience,I wouldn't fancy doing it again any time soon. although second time round will be faster

I ended up going for the LuK kit. the friction plate had Valeo and LuK stamped on it. the bearing was made by NSK. so was the old one.

I have now have a soft clutch pedal. no more moaning when in heavy traffic about my leg.

so if any of you guys have the 1cd-ftv engine and have a heavy pedal most likely its going to be the master clyinder or clutch kit, changing these made the most improvement bushes made very little.

I have some pics of old one and new clutch.

ROLL ON... TIMING BELT AND WATER PUMP CHANGE !!

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post-125194-0-38265000-1404074869_thumb.

post-125194-0-02899600-1404074879_thumb.

post-125194-0-75468400-1404074888_thumb.

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I also did flywheel too, all the bolts were torqued to manufactures specifications. found in the pdf and haynes.

no picture; the forks on the pressure plate were bent and not aligned maybe this caused the stiffness?

post-125194-0-26050500-1404075558_thumb.

post-125194-0-93260300-1404075567_thumb.

post-125194-0-48098100-1404075576_thumb.

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Well done matey.....im half way through my timing belt and water pump change....just need to put it all back together now..

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Well done matey.....im half way through my timing belt and water pump change....just need to put it all back together now..

I'm doing mine tomorrow John,weather dependant ?How has yours gone.

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