Attempting A Clutch Change On A D4D 2004 Avensis 1Cd-Ftv

[Bono Estente]

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/160679-changing-all-belts-water-pump-on-2002-diesel-rav4/#entry1343629

Not too bad, just time consuming and fiddly, might beva bit easier on the avensis as you may have more room in there.

[avensisd4d786]

what do you think of free-play guys- there was no rattle on idle,

[Mistermena]

Its had its day! Thats why its a good idea to change the DMF/SMF when you do a friction plate change.

[Bono Estente]

That's what mine was like...do you feel any springs at the end of rotation. ..my new luk one had 1 tooth of freeplay....luk recommend a max of 5 teeth before you feel the springs as in spec.....To be honest mine was dry as a bone full of clutch dust...the grease must have gone some time ago. ..just metal on metal no lubrication.....I could not feel and springs on my old one....they must have been well and truly trashed after 90k.

DMF Failure inspection list.pdf

[kostadinnm]

I have a Corolla with the same engine. I had the clutch and the flywheel replaced with a LuK set, but the moaning at traffic is still present. Do you, guys, think changing the master cylinder would fix this?! Or, it could be something else?!

[avensisd4d786]

what do mean by moaning? does the noise go away when depress the clutch?

[kostadinnm]

It's not moaning(although I don't exclude that), but the depression of the clutch action is not acting smooth. It's like having low half-pressed point and too-high fully-depressed point. In the meantime, the engine is losing revolutions and simultaneously it gets me pulled aggressively ahead, when it gets fully depressed.

Also(I just talked about this with an old fellow engineer of mine), both engaging a gear in and out are tenser than expected - the gear in is usually stucking a little bit, but I also noticed it when trying to go from gear to neutral

[Avensissedan]

I have Toyota Avensis 1CD-FTV 2.0 diesel 2004 which is manual and I'd like to know what are all of the single mass flywheel's tightening torques because I can't seem to find any information for this specific matter.

 

[JJenduro]

Hi avensisd4d786, you say you have the torque setting for the clutch pressure plate, what are they for a 1CD-FTV? I have the toyota manual but there is no mention of torque setting for pressure plate. I finally have gearbox out and going to check the flywheel to see if it needs a change.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION & TRANSAXLE.pdf

[JJenduro]

Hi, Just got the clutch out and it looks in very good condition for having a 100,000 miles done, I'm not sure why it was slipping? Do you think I should change the fly wheel? its not making any noise and is within the five tooth tolerance. It is the original and has done 183,000miles. Thanks Jim.

[Konrad C]

9 hours ago, JJenduro said:

Hi, Just got the clutch out and it looks in very good condition for having a 100,000 miles done, I'm not sure why it was slipping? Do you think I should change the fly wheel? its not making any noise and is within the five tooth tolerance. It is the original and has done 183,000miles. Thanks Jim.

I have contacted avensisd4d786 to let him know you want info. I did my own initial checks and other reasons for clutch slip are contamination from oil from leaking engine seal, weak pressure plate, sticking release bearing and bad adjustment.

The flywheel and pressure plate faces look contaminated, so give a wipe. If there is a leak, sort the back seal before assembly. Otherwise if dry, then the pressure plate is not applying enough clamping force. This then leads to the pressure plate weak or sticking release bearing. You are in the right situation to assess the situation. 

[JJenduro]

Thanks Konrad, the contamination is what looks to me as "Mean thermal Load" (see DMF Failure inspection list) as the flywheel and clutch are dry. The oil is coming from the rocker cover gasket above. I don't think I repair the rocker cover gasket now. So from what you've said the slippage is from poor pressure plate which I'll be replacing. I just need torque settings for that. 

DMF Failure inspection list.pdf

[JJenduro]

Just an update on my clutch replacement. I ****** up some where😢. I got everything back together and put the car in reverse, the clutch was very soft with a sharp and quick bite point. When I pressed the clutch again to go into first I couldn't select any gear.

The were only two things I was unsure of when putting back together .

1. When installing the pressure plate initially there was a gap between the pressure plate frame and the flywheel, this was before I tightened down any bolts. I then tightened everything down as per the sequence below and to the torque settings. In the end the pressure plate frame was up against the flywheel and the clutch alignment tool was loose as the diaphragm springs had depressed in towards the engine.

2. The only other thing I did that as was unsure of was the refitting of the slave cylinder. I had to open the bleed screw to relieve pressure to get it into position.

I think the problem is with the pressure plate. Should there be a gap between the pressure plate frame and the flywheel?

Thanks Jim.

[JJenduro]

I found out what the problem is. Nothing to do with the clutch replacement and only coincidental it appeared during it. The clutch fluid line in the picture was leaking fluid. I will need to cut back the metal part to where there is no rust and connect to a new flexible pipe.