3 Door 2002, Handbrake Issue.

[stevepoppop]

Hi Guys

First post, with apologies if this has been covered before. I have had a good look around and I cant find the answer.

I have rebuilt the rear brakes, discs, callipers, shoes, pads etc. I have set up the handbrake as per diagrams/instruction on here and the downloaded manual I have.

I believe that a new handbrake cable was fitted prior to me buying the car.

The problem is that very occasionally the handbrake shoes on the right side seem to "slip" against the drum! This results in a rubbing noise and the back end shaking. If I play around with the handbrake lever it seems to eventually reset and is ok for a few days.

The shoes only have 1 tension spring at the bottom which flexes around the bottom of the adjuster - I have noticed on a couple of diagrams that there seems to be 2 springs? However, the new fitting set I purchased only has the 3 longer springs for securing the shoes 2 top. 1 bottom.

Occasionally I get a clunk from the right rear on set off, so could there be a cable problem. Though once released I cant get how this would then affect shoe movement??

Like most DIYers I have been really careful cleaning/greasing where appropriate and the shoes do seem very easy to slide around, and was wondering if indeed there should be 2 springs at the bottom of the shoes?

The car hasnt had much TLC over its lifetime and I would be grateful if anyone would have further suggestions?

Thanks

Steve

[crofter]

Hi Steve and welcome aboard.

You say that you believe that a new cable had been fitted.

Not had any probs with mine so not sure on the lay out of the cables on the rav.

Please excuse if I am going over ground that you know.The cable in the cabin is one that usually only goes so far to the back and then joins some type of compensating mechanism that balances out the force applied equally to both rear wheels through a cable/cables to each wheel.Maybe one, or one side if only one cable goes between the wheels, is sticking and is not releasing fully when you first release the handbrake and needs the, as you put it,playing with the brake lever to loosen it.

Just a thought

Del

[stevepoppop]

Hi Del

Thank you for the wellcome. Ive actually looked quite a few times at different posts prior to signing up! - its been very helpful.

Yes, I was wondering about the cable, which is why I mentioned the occasional thump indicating occasional sticking. Two problems: I cant seem to find the exact layout of the handbrake cable in my downloaded manual or online. I believe its also a pain to get at, requiring the petrol tank to be dropped? I can see the cable disappearing around the bottom of the tank, and will get it up on axle stands this weekend and see if anything comes to light. To be honest given the minimum maintenance I guess if its possible just to install one side thats all that will have been done. If it is a cable or part cable its a garage job Im afraid.

However, this weekend Ill dismantle the right side again, examine and explore the cable as far as I can, and re-install all the parts.

To be honest given the cost of a new cable Id more than happily buy one, but fitting it doesnt seem to be a "roadside" kinda job!!

Thanks again

Steve

[stevepoppop]

Del

After lots of fiddling this morning Im convinced - as you suspected - it is the handbrake cable, nothing else now makes any sense! I got it to make that "clonk" release noise a couple of times!

I did have a little look to see if I could find out how the "join" compensator works but even with axle stands Im not totally comfortable rolling around underneath! I think it does disappear over the petrol tank.

So Ill book it in asap to have a new cable fitted, unless anyone has a step guide to fitting a new one? I still dont know if its all in one or if there are left and right cables.

cheers

Steve

[crofter]

Steve, there are three handbrake cables on a list I looked at.

I think that if I had done as you have done the then I would first dissemble the brake again and detach the cable from the backplate and then hang it up on the spring,and make a funnel with a plastic bag secured to the outer and left with oil in it to see if that does any good. I should think that when you disconnect the cable that you would be able to work the inner to see if it is stiff and if it does free off as the other end would only let the pivot swing as it is meant to. Do I need to remind you to, if it works, to leave the cable hanging down so any oil that would be able to run out can do safely and not contaminate the brake after reassembly

Who knows it may save you a few bob because it does not look an easy job to change that cable which would be reflected in the bill.Let us all know what you decide or any results

Del

[stevepoppop]

Hi Del

Yes, I have also been searching around the net, and like you I agree there seems to be 3 cables with a 3 barrel type connector. One from the lever and the other 2 going off left and right. The annoying thing is that it would be quite straight forward if it didnt need so many awkward bits to be moved!

Me being me I think Ill ask for a replacement to be fitted - the exhaust looks on its last legs and an mot is due in august, and the exhaust will be moved to drop the tank etc etc

Its been fun so far - struts, wishbones, idle valve, roll bar bushes, 4 tyres, brakes, headlight. I think I got a real bargain!! LOL

Ill let you know,

thanks again,

Steve

[stevepoppop]

Del and others

Just to let you know the outcome.

Been to my usual garage (non specific, ie not a Toyota dealer) Total bill for all cables(3) replaced + a welded section of exhaust + pre mot check. £370. No other issues so should pass next month for another years motoring!

Thanks

Steve.

[pmb]

I had my handbrake cables replaced last year. Like you say , it is a drop the tank job. Can't find the receipt but it was in that ballpark.

[gjnorthall]

Most Toyota handbrake cables of this type fail where the cable enters the brake backplate. The end of the outer cable is an alloy casting which bolts to the backplate. The casting corrodes and eventually fractures. Water etc gets inside and eventually the inner cable starts to stick at this point. The usual symptoms are that the handbrake sticks on and the brake shoes release with a bang as the car moves. Give the alloy casting a good coat of Waxoyl or similar. Handbrake inner cables have a nylon covering and should not be lubricated. A squirt of WD40 etc at the cable ends is fine but avoid lubricating oil.