90 Camry 2.0 Sputters / Stalls Under Load

[mattg]

edit: that was sopposed to say "but only in the mornings..."

I don't get it. the car runs like a champ for a few minutes, then maybe 5 minutes into my drive it starts to sputter and stumble if i push the gas too much.. on really bad days, i can't push the gas at all if the car isn't already crawling on its own.

its really embarrasing for my sister since I take her to high school every day.

once I get on the open road for a while, like moving at 40mph for 10-15 minutes, its fine, and it wont do it at all for the rest of the day even if it gets stone cold in the afternoon. that right there is what is confusing me on this problem. it'll sit all day at work, and be fine. (8+ hours), but when i come home at midnight, and drive it at 7am it does this. its just so odd.

anyway, i've replaced the cap/rotor/wires/plugs. plugs have been coming out white (lean).

i'm looking at the coil as my next target, and i'll be testing the tps as well. does anyone have the spces on the TPS? I haven't been able to google them up.

[aton9900]

Yes, you should look into the Ignition Coil, especially if you have the problem on rainy/humid days.

See my previous post: http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.p...indpost&p=95384

Aton9900

[Mick24]

The Ignitor in the Distributor gives trouble on the higher mileage one's,and they will benefit from a top end de-coke when the mileage gets up to approx.140,000(suffer from a hesitation when trying to accelerate).

[sdhartney]

I'm sure these guys meant to say COIL.

The coils in these earlier models are CRAP, they overheat and

develope stress and heat fractures where the high voltage will

leak to ground.

Get yourself a new coil from anywhere, a Kragen is cheaper than the dealer,

You'll also need the gasket (seal) that mounts under the coil cause when you

remove the coil that gasket crumbles (this may be a dealer item).

While your at it, get a distributor shaft O-ring seal cause the old one is now

brittle and leaking a bit.

Scribe (mark) the distributor-to-engine so that re-alignment is easy.

Remove the distributor, take it to the workbench.

Remove the coil covers, and the coil.

Remove and replace the old gaskets and seals.

Install the new coil, and old coil covers.

Replace the distributor in the car, aligning the scribe marks.

Tighten everything.

Give yourself a huge pat on the back for saving hundreds of repair

dollars, and enjoy your fine running machine for another 100k miles

till you have to do this all over again.