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H20 Killed My 5s-fe


MIKEHTMSR24
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:ffs:

When I first got my 93 I pressure washed the engine at the car wash with the engine running and then drove it back to the house. Didn't have any problems.

Last Saturday I sprayed some simple green on the motor and hosed it off at the house. I washed the engine under the shade tree and then started her up and proceded 10 feet to the driveway and washed the car. Sunday morning I got up to go over to my buddies house. Rowed up the cover enought to start the engine. No problems. Just about got the cover totally rolled up and she died.

Pulled the plugs and had a little water around 1 of the plugs. Removed plugs, dried and reinstalled plugs and wires. No fire.

Pull some of the electrical plugs and didn't find any water.

Pulled dist. cap. and found a very small amout of condensation. Their was also a small amout of water at the bottom of the dist. near the - high tension terminal.

Checked the primary coil resis. and got about a .6 ohms on a cold motor, dau. Book said .36 to .55 cold and .45 to .65 on hot engine.

Checked secondary coil and it passed. I think, sorry, supposed to be between 9 to 15.4 k. I got between 9 to 15.4 but not sure I got 9 to 15 ohms or 9 to 15 K ohms.

Checked air gap while I was there and got .012".

Checked signal generator resis. on the G+ to G- and that passed.

But when I checked NE+ to NE- I got .475 ohms.

Book said it should be between 370 to 550 ohms. Does the manual have a period missing from the 370 to 550??

I did find some water on the mating plug of this connector and mostly in the outer protective sleeve on that wiring harness.

My manual is a 1993 Toyota manual Volume 1 (engine and specifications).

Help what should I do next?

Today is Wed. and its been sunny and hot for two days. Still dead. I admit I'm a clean freak. All I did was sprayed the engine enough to get it damp. Then I sprayed on a small amount of simple green still not touching nothing, then sprayed off the engine.

Wiped down some of the water. Then I tried to start it and IT DID START, moved it over 10 feet to the driveway. Shut it off, then washed the car.

Got back in it the next day (noonish) IT STARTED, ran for about 1 to 2 minutes then DIED.

I went out just awhile ago and check ohm readings again:

Primary Coil should be on a cold engine .36 ohms to .55

I got .5 ohms

Secondary Coil should be on a cold engine 9 to 15.4 K ohms

I got 11.77 K ohms

Didn't check air gap but on Sat. it was .012"

Signal Generator (pick up coil)

G+ to G- on a cold engine 185 to 275 ohms

I got 230.5 ohms

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No I didn't cover but the engine is turning over fine. It just doesn't have fire to the plugs.

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If worst comes to worst you'll need a new headgasket, new plugs and at the extreme end of things, a rebore of cams and shafts! but lets hope not. I'd take it to a garage who knows what theyre doing, they can take the valve cover off and see exactly whats happened

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Does anybody know what the NE+ to NE- goes to in the distrubutor? This is the four prong electrical plug on the left side of the dist. as you are facing it.

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If worst comes to worst you'll need a new headgasket, new plugs and at the extreme end of things, a rebore of cams and shafts! but lets hope not. I'd take it to a garage who knows what theyre doing, they can take the valve cover off and see exactly whats happened

Flippin 'ell it's only a bit of water! There wont be any need for a new headgaskets or any reboring!

I woulnt expect there to be any problem with the ignition coil internally as the windings will be insulated anyway. Check there isnt any water in the HT electrodes on the coil and HT the lead from the coil. If thats not the problem I suggest checking the igniter out especially on the wires coming from the ECU.

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Have you tried spraying WD40 on the ignition circuit parts?

Do the plug leads, HT, distributor, coil and any connectors. This dispels water and, if it is a moisture problem, will find and rectify it for you.

Good Luck

Rich

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Sorry for not knowing but what is HT?

I'll check the suggestions and as soon as I find out what HT is that will help too.

What does the condenser do? That is underneath the coil. Thanks for the help Bobby-H and Boro Sera :group-cuddles: It's been a week w/o my 2 and I'm not likin it a bit. We have not had any rain and I have let the cap off all this time. I'll try to start it tom. afternoon. I hope it isn't parts. Mr. Toyota wanted 160 bucks for the housing and the whole dist. was close to 500 :!Removed!:

Should I stay with Toyota parts or go aftermarket?

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get blueprint parts if you need to, much cheaper and exactly the same only without Toyota written on em.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I ordered a Toyota dist. housing assy and did an ohm reading on it and it read the same as my dist. on my 2 motor. So the dang (to put it politely) Toyota manual should have had a decimal in front of the ohm reading. So I guess I'll be looking futher. :ffs:

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just a hunch , but are all the vaccumm pipes on around the throttle body , those pressure washers are powerfull.if any are off the motor just wont start EVER.get some idiot or an enemy to put his or her finger in a spark plug lead end as you crank the engine , if he or she squeels you have a spark , so its not a spark related issue.

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get some idiot or an enemy to put his or her finger in a spark plug lead end as you crank the engine , if he or she squeels you have a spark , so its not a spark related issue.

lmao :D

-Z

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:bookworm:

I just hosed of the engine with a garden hose.

I also did a screwdriver in the spark plug wire trick and no fire.

:bookworm:

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have you checked all fuses and relays ? do the test on just the coil lead on its own if still no spark its from there backwards and not the dizzy. if it was ok before you wet it , its just something stupid. or maybe you shorted something in the ecu which isnt good.

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  • 1 month later...

:ffs: Well Mr. Toyota local dealership wanted to replace the complete dist. at over $600 buck (including labor). I asked them what was bad in the dist. and and know one could tell me except that the dist. had to be replaced. We went around and around. We even had a medeator involved. I finally told them I would be over with a wrecker and pick her up.

I found a guy who works on Toyotas and he told me over the phone to replace the coil. I asked him how much and he told me he just replaced one on a Camery. When he told me it was the same dist. I knew he knew what he was talking about. So this guy fixed the problem over the phone and also ordered the parts b4 he even saw the car. :group-cuddles:

$175 out the door. He said he has only replace one complete dist. in his career.

I called Mr. Toyota and politely told them off. <_<

The coil had a crack in it b4 the wash job and the water is what totally killed it. :thumbsup:

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If worst comes to worst you'll need a new headgasket, new plugs and at the extreme end of things, a rebore of cams and shafts! but lets hope not. I'd take it to a garage who knows what theyre doing, they can take the valve cover off and see exactly whats happened

Rebore....? :lol::lol::lol:

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  • 3 months later...

Thanks for everyone's replies in response to H2O killed my 5S-FE. I have been experiencing the same thing! I like to keep my engine compartment clean, too. I sprayed the engine compartment with Castrol degreaser (blue bottle) and then with hot water from my 2000 psi pressure washer :D Then I waited a few hours and went to start it up and NOTHING! :bookworm: I have done some extensive research on this topic as far as the ignition system on All Data at my local garage. Resistance values are only given for G + NE pickup coils and ignition coil. I have also traced all wires from the igniter to ECU, distributor, and even fuel injectors. Anyway, I've gone to "Mr. Toyota" and he has told me to replace the igniter. By the way, "Mr. Toyota" wants $400. I've checked everything like MIKEHTMSR24, and it all tests correct but still coming up without a spark :angry: I wonder if the crack in the coil was visible to the naked eye? Tomorrow, I'll replace the coil and see what happens... :unsure:

Jeff

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