Avensis Front Hub - Inner Raceway

[Owdjockey]

Hi, I have identified a problem with my front o/s wheel bearing on my 2004 2.0 D4D. The car has amassed some 207,000 miles, which is pretty good going. I have reasonable mechanical skills, so I have purchased a replacement front wheel bearing c£35 and a small 6 ton press £45.

However, reading the manual I note that there is an Inner Raceway, which according to good practice is normally replaced. This inner raceway is a bit of a pig to get off (not having the SST) requiring cutting a diagonal groove, then chiselling out. My questions are:

1. Where I can get this part from?

2. Given the mileage of the car is it actually worth replacing, in other words can I just replace the bearing itself?

many thanks

[Druid Boy]

Maybe get a price from an independant garage to do the inner raceway for you. That way you have a proper job done and have still saved yourself a good chunk of cash.

[avensisd4d786]

Sorry Owdjockey, this is not related to your question but 207k is impressive, what parts have you changed and what problems have you had if you don't mind me asking?

[gazza1286]

When you do the job be very careful with the abs sensor. Don't try to remove it at the hub assembly. You're likely to damage it as they're delicate and may be rusted in. Much safer to split the inboard connector and feed the cable through the inner wing.

[Konrad C]

When you do the job be very careful with the abs sensor. Don't try to remove it at the hub assembly. You're likely to damage it as they're delicate and may be rusted in. Much safer to split the inboard connector and feed the cable through the inner wing.

Yes I had this problem last year when the head of the bolt holding the ABS sensor sheared off due to rust. I managed to remove the rest by carefully drilling a small hole and using an extractor. Unlike some unlucky member where a garage damaged the thread, I only had to replace that bolt. In that case the garage re-bored/tapped a larger whole, and it was not lined up. The result is the ABS light came on!!!

When on the same job of changing the wheel bearing, to get the inner race off the inner hub, I used an angle grinder. The heat generated makes the races expand plus a good whack with a hammer and chisel has it off in minutes or seconds if you do it right.

If I do a wheel bearing in the future and the ABS bolt looks rusty, I will be following Gary's and my mechanic mates advice - unplug the connector.

[Owdjockey]

hi guys, I've been away for over a week, laid low by a really tough viral infection.

I've reread my original message and I really got it wrong. To save myself further embarrassment i won't explain why it was a stupid question.

Anyway, I made a slow start on the job today. I took onboard the comments about preserving/ protecting the ABS sensor. Tracing the sensor cable had me having to remove the inner wheel arch to reveal the connector below. And where I intended to break the circuit

I must admit it was a right pfaff having to do this, but I didn't go anywhere near the ABS sensor. It could be possible, for those with strong fingers and able to work blind, to break the connection and yet not have to remove the inner wheel arch.

Onwards tomorrow, where I should hopefully finish the job

[Konrad C]

I assume you thought that the inner race which stays on the hub, is a separate part.

At least you now know it is part of the bearing.

In my earlier response, I mentioned that the small bolt holding the ABS sensor sheared off at the head. I managed to drill and extra the remains of the bolt.

That was the right hand hub and it had never been disassembled before, the bolt was rusting and corroded. I happen to had a few bolts of the correct size, and when reattaching the ABS sensor, I put copper ease on the threads. The lefthand bolt had been removed before, so there was no problems.

Even though I stated I may unplug the ABS sensor at the plug, I think the precaution I has taken to use thresh bolts and protect the threads, means that the bolts will be easy to remove next time.

Here is a picture showing the ABS sensor and bolt on my Mk1 Avensis.

Konrad

[gazza1286]

The thing is it's the sensor itself which can disintegrate when attempting to remove it. Unless it's within say 5 years of manufacture then there's going to be a risk.

[Owdjockey]

Konrad, I'm admitting to nothing without a lawyer present

I should say that the "hidden" ABS connector is also fitted into the panel body by a blind plastic plug which needs to be maneuvered to get off. Not much success today as my trusty ball-joint splitter is too-small.

I've also got to clean the hole housing the cotter pin on the tie-rod ball-joint which is full of rusted old metal etc..

[Konrad C]

I assume you thought that the inner race which stays on the hub, is a separate part.

At least you now know it is part of the bearing.

In my earlier response, I mentioned that the small bolt holding the ABS sensor sheared off at the head. I managed to drill and extra the remains of the bolt.

That was the right hand hub and it had never been disassembled before, the bolt was rusting and corroded. I happen to had a few bolts of the correct size, and when reattaching the ABS sensor, I put copper ease on the threads. The lefthand bolt had been removed before, so there was no problems.

Even though I stated I may unplug the ABS sensor at the plug, I think the precaution I has taken to use thresh bolts and protect the threads, means that the bolts will be easy to remove next time.

Here is a picture showing the ABS sensor and bolt on my Mk1 Avensis.

IMG_3665.jpg

Konrad

The thing is it's the sensor itself which can disintegrate when attempting to remove it. Unless it's within say 5 years of manufacture then there's going to be a risk.

Konrad, I'm admitting to nothing without a lawyer present

I should say that the "hidden" ABS connector is also fitted into the panel body by a blind plastic plug which needs to be maneuvered to get off. Not much success today as my trusty ball-joint splitter is too-small.

I've also got to clean the hole housing the cotter pin on the tie-rod ball-joint which is full of rusted old metal etc..

Gary, I removed the bolts to the ABS sensor a few times on the left hand hub without any issues. It was the first time trying to remove the right hand bolt did it shear off!

With bolts removed the sensors simply pulled out of the hub. Mine were fine at the time (15 years old).

Have Toyota changed the design since or mine are exceptional?

Owdjockey your comment made me laugh. I am not judge, jury and definitely not executioner.

You will get it done. Your next post will be to say 'finished'.

Konrad

[gazza1286]

I've wrecked one from an MR2. The bolt wasn't a problem. I gently (so I thought) teased the sensor from the hub but the plastic cover cracked leaving half of it in the hub. Since then I've never tried. The wiring can be split at the connectors and the sensors can be left in situ when pressing replacement bearings.

[Owdjockey]

Finally, got the job done today.

It involved a lot of thrashing and smashing metal, something I wanted to avoid. The £45 press I bought off eBay, could be described with one word "mincing". It had a very small work area and I could not fit any of the pieces from the Avensis into it. I have had a look and with the purchase of small longer angle-iron, I think I can safely increase the work area size of the press.

If you don't have a decent press or a heavy-duty work vice together with lumps of thick gauge metal bits hanging around, then I wouldn't advise doing the job ( unless you can get your local garage to help out with the press work).

Had to improvise getting the Hub assembly off the steering knuckle assembly, the Manual advocated using a slide-hammer. If I had used that method I would have still been banging at the !Removed! thing still.

The advice given about the ABS sensor was followed, and although the whole sensor +cable(coiled up in a plastic bag) was always attached to the steering knuckle assembly throughout process of bearing replacement.

From the manual I did not see any reason to a) Remove the front stabiliser link or remove the lower ball joint.

By not removing the ABS sensor and Lower Ball joint meant that I could not place the main hub assembly (which receives the bearing) in the oven and cook it at 200 deg c ready to receive the bearing itself from the freezer. Instead I used an hot air gun and blow torch to bring the bearing assembly housing up to a high temp, before dropping the frozen bearing in.

Bit stumped at the start with the range of bearing prices available from £15 through to £99, I opted for a £36 in the end.

On the whole no problem with doing the other side should the need to arise.

[Steve7t3]

What size are the bolts so I don't overdrill when trying to remove, yes yav guessed bolts sheared. Cheers in advance

[Konrad C]

On 5/14/2020 at 5:44 PM, Steve7t3 said:

What size are the bolts so I don't overdrill when trying to remove, yes yav guessed bolts sheared. Cheers in advance

The bolt is 10mm with standard pitch thread. The threaded part is approximately 12mm long. I tried to upload a photo, but it keeps failing. I will add in another post if needed. In my previous post above, my photo shows the bolt head sprayed with penetrating fluid, just below the sensor. Another way is to disconnect the sensor further along.