Verso D4D Violent Engine Shaking On Acceleration

[skullym]

Hi, I'm new to this forum but just thought I would share my experience as it may help others...

I have a 2006 Corolla Verso D4D (177) which suddenly started producing strong engine shaking when accelerating in any gear - coming from the front end but not through the steering wheel. Seemed fine when not accelerating and idle seemed as usual. At first I pulled over to see if there was a flat tyre.

After surfuing many forums and scaring myself about SCV valves, cam shafts, injectors etc, I decided to do about the only maintenance task I have done previously, although non of the forums described the shaking syptom as potentially related - DISMOUNT AND CLEAN THE EGR VALVE.

Takes about 1-1.5 hours but most of this is the acutal cleaning of the valve. Last time I did it was about 2 years ago. Needless to say it was full of gunge. Gave a thorough clean (petrol and toothbrush) and cleaned the manifold area too (use a vacum cleaner to avoid bits of gunge falling down the manifold holes).

Just came back from a spin and the car seems good as new.

Its worth pointing out that none of the usual symptoms were present - no problem at idle, no noticable flat spot and no noticable loss of power (until the shaking suddenly set in).

My guess is that the valve was stuck in the closed position and the shaking was related to overheating as the EGR valve has a role in cooling the system.

Would be interested in any similar stories or a more technical explanation of what was happening.

thanks

[skullym]

Humm - looks like I blew my trumpet too soon.

The shaking is back, but intermittently and still only when accelerating.

I have checked the fuel filter (which was replaced a month ago) and seems fine.

Any ideas ?

[Mistermena]

Are you aware of the 112k 7 year warranty on these engines?

[skullym]

Thanks - no I was not aware of this - I have already had the 5th injector replaced at huge cost.

However, I am based in France and the car is a French car. Do you have any idea if this also applies in France ?

thanks

[skullym]

Latest update....took the car to the garage (not Toyota dealership but local garage who have done good work in the past). They have identified "injector defaults" and have removed the injectors and sent them for analysis to a specialst. I am currently awaiting the outcome....

[skullym]

Now they have come back saying they could only remove one injector (the others are "stuck") but the analysis shows that (luckily) it was this one that is faulty. Cost of a new injector is 700€ (in France) with a total bill of 1050€ inc VAT. I am now waiting for them to obtain and fit the new injector (and hoping the other three are actually ok and not going to give up on me this summer).

[Peterkin]

So first they said they'd removed all the injectors, but now they admit that they could only extract one of them, but "fortunately" it was the faulty one?

I'd be very sceptical, to say the least.

[2LD4DVerso]

I'd be very interested in hearing how you got on skullym.

I had an event when towing under pressure. It then struggled with a hot start so I took it to the dealer and was told I had an injector issue. They wanted to replace all with new and that was too much muulah. In the hope that not all needed replacing and could be reconditioned or replaced with reconditioned ones I took it to a Injector guy. They quoted a lot less so left it with them, but could only do 3 as one was stuck and one of the 3 they serviced themselves. But when I got it back there was a serious loss of power.

Fuel efficiency improved but was not impressed with power loss and still a knocking noise.

After lots of fuel / injector additives and spray EGR cleaners I'm still not much better off. If anything the smoke on excelleration (oil burn) is worse and the whistle from the turbo has got louder.

I removed the EGR completely today having read a post on here. I soaked it in thinners and took a brush to it and it is way cleaner and the valve movement is smoother by hand. First drive it feels a bit better but still not there.

I'm thinking next on the list is either Turbo or SCV. I can't find the SCV and turbo looks hard to remove.

Anyone recommend a next step?

Cheers.

[2LD4DVerso]

I forgot to mention. when I replaced the Battery, the hot start issue has (mostly) been resolved. I had read here it might be the starting motor and I was about to do that next. A most unexpected fix to a hot start. if it's quite hot it may still shudder for a few secs before it kicks in.

[skullym]

Hi 2LD4DVerso,

The end of the story on my D4D is that the replacement of the injector (the only one that wasnt stuck) has fixed the problem (so far but its been a year now). The car runs ok (no judder) and power seems reasonable. Fuel economy is not good (but never has been - about 8L/100km (35mpg) and I have to clean the EGR about once per year (I can tell when there is a slight flat spot accelerating on to roundabouts).

hope you find a solution

[Cyker]

Just be aware that the new Battery doesn't fix the problem, just masks it. When it's new, the Battery can draw more amps to overcome the resistance and force the starter to crank, but this will stress the Battery and after a couple months or so the problem will likely return.

The only way to properly fix it is to get a new starter (And I do mean a new one, not a salvaged one; Toyota rectified the problem in newer parts.). You can use the time to hunt around for a better price for the starter tho' :)

PartsKing is a good person to start with! ;)

[2LD4DVerso]

Just be aware that the new battery doesn't fix the problem, just masks it. When it's new, the battery can draw more amps to overcome the resistance and force the starter to crank, but this will stress the battery and after a couple months or so the problem will likely return. The only way to properly fix it is to get a new starter (And I do mean a new one, not a salvaged one; Toyota rectified the problem in newer parts.). You can use the time to hunt around for a better price for the starter tho' :) PartsKing is a good person to start with! ;)

thanks Cyker,

What you say makes sense. I forgot to mention how the starting issue behaved. it does not struggle or seem like it needs more power. it actually was like it had too much (not the case i know), as it shuddered the engine but just did not fire up. it would keep doing it till the Battery emptied - once at a junction, once at home. but if I let it cool down then it would start no problem. so if it was the starter, then it would be to do with metal expansion? or ?

Thats why I was curious about the SCV. I read somewhere it could get stuck when hot. This would explain the hot start and performance issues.

I'm not dismissing your advice, just feeding it

[Cyker]

TBH, I don't know what the actual cause of the problem is - I also assume it's some sort of metal expansion in the starter or something that makes it hard to turn when hot???

My brother had it on his Corolla D4D and I know what you mean: It's really odd as the symptoms don't seem like it is the starter; It seems to crank just fine, but just doesn't 'fire', almost as if the immobilizer is active.

The reason we are 99% sure it's the starter is that we've seen this problem a lot here with 1CD engines, and also there is a Toyota advisory out on it (In hindsight I should have mentioned that earlier )

I can't remember who posted this originally, so whoever it was speak up and get some kudos :D, but after some digging around I still have the PDF so here it is!

TSB_starterproblem_EG6005-TOY.pdf

[2LD4DVerso]

...a bit further on. I definitely have an EGR issue. even though I took it out twice and gave it a good clean after a dismantle of the electric actuator and even left it soak in thinners for a while. it moves by hand easily enough but the actuator is obviously not firing it. I unplugged it and got instant increase in power. Then gave it a good drive with fuel cleaner / booster.

I Plugged it back in to confirm the difference. true enough the power was back down a bit and the black exhaust smoke was back too.

Question - Can it be left unplugged till a new EGR is sourced? and will a new egr work given it's the actuator and possibly electrical?

There's still a whistle on acceleration which I hope is not the turbo but if it's not then it could be the exhaust manifold ?!!