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Verso 2.0 D4D 2009 -Poor Mpg


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Posted

Hello Verso owners

I have bought my Verso about 6 months back. It is a 2009 2.0 D4D model with 66500 miles on the clock.I am a satisfied and happy customer . My main concern is its MPG. I am getting maximum of 39 MPG after 400 miles trip consists of mainly motorways and dual carriage roads.I am bit disappointed after getting poor MPG's .I am expecting atleast 45 MPG for this model.

I am always keeping required tyre pressure and monitoring at regular intervals. My MOT is due next month.

Please anyone can guide me the steps to enhance my MPG?

Thanks in advance.

Posted

I have the 1.8 Verso and get just about 50.0 MPG. I also only mainly use motorway. What I do is even in the city, I dont use the thrid gear. I do Gear 1, 2 then straight to 4 and quickly 5. I do 40 MPH in 5th gear, same on motorway. Traveling in 1,2,3 eats your fuel. Try to only use gear 4-5 and you will get there :donatello:

Posted

Might be the ol' EGR valve or DPF. They both have an impact on mpg when they get sooted up...

Might also be the diesel you are using, esp. if you don't push the car hard, as the crappier diesels tend to leave crud which starts to build up in the injectors and airways if the engine never gets hot enough for long enough to burn them off.

Might be worth taking it on a hoon or running a tank or two of V-Power diesel through it.

Posted

@ ToyotaAuris: Thanks Mate !

Yes..I mainly use 1,2 & 3 gears in City traffic.Also in my style of driving I use clutch extensively( I am not a clutch burner:-)

Let me try to implement your tips ..

Thanks

Posted

@ Cyker: Thanks..

How much it cost to change EGR or DPF?

I am using normal City Diesel from Sainsbury for the past 6 months. Let me try for V-Power next time.

Thanks


Posted

That sounds pretty poor for motorway/dual carriageway runs unless you're thrashing the heck out of it. I'm averaging in the low 50's on my 2.0 D4D Verso.

The way I drive it is:

Treat it with kid gloves till it's warmed up properly (I'm thinking of the oil here not the coolant so that means at least 10 miles) by using the smallest throttle opening that's practical (and safe!) and not revving past about 2k or so. Don't leave it idling to warm it up in the morning!

Once warmed up, I tend to use plenty of throttle in the lower gears to get up to speed quickly (I take it up to about 3k rpm while accelerating) then put it in the most suitable coasting gear (to keep it in the torque band - roughly 1.8k to 3k rpm). I prefer to keep it around 2k rpm. If you drop out of the torque band, you'll end up dumping fuel into the cylinders that it can't use next time you hit the throttle - that'll be deposited over everything as soot. If you rev the nuts off the thing you'll just be wasting fuel and increasing wear.

If you're in stop/start traffic, there's not a heck of a lot you can do except plan ahead so you can reduce the number of starts from stationary that you have to do. I find that unless I have to stop, I can pretty well just leave it in third gear around town and be gentle with the throttle to avoid turbo spooling issues (see below). There's no point accelerating hard in town if you're going to have to stop again in a few yards, being first to the next red light is for the boy racers.

On the open road, when going on to the throttle, I don't slam it to the floor. I try to depress it gently and relatively slowly till the turbo has spooled up nicely and we're at around 2k rpm or so then give it some more if necessary. Burying it in the carpet with the turbo spooled down is just wasting fuel while the turbo tries to catch up.

Leave it in gear as you approach roundabouts, etc. No coasting out of gear. The ECU detects the overrun and shuts off the fuel, leaving the vehicles momentum to keep the engine turning over. If you're coasting out of gear it needs to supply fuel to keep the engine running. It's only a small amount but it all adds up.

Anyway, that's all something you'll need to experiment with, might not suit your style of driving or your roads...seems to work for me though.

You could also try dropping a can of BG244 into the tank next time you fill up (actually, drop the contents of the can into the tank!). If your injectors are a bit grubby, that'll get them nice and clean and help improve your combustion so you won't need so much throttle to maintain speed - that's the theory anyway.

Posted

A dirty air filter can give poor mpg

Posted

@ Cyker: Thanks..

How much it cost to change EGR or DPF?

I am using normal City Diesel from Sainsbury for the past 6 months. Let me try for V-Power next time.

Thanks

Use BP not V-Power, for some reason Shell's fuel burns more faster? Or is it just me? I fill tank and it blows in 2 days, normally take 4-5 days, same journey nothing different.

Posted

@Korat102 : Wow..Great..

Many thanks for your detailed answer.

Posted

@ Cyker: Thanks..

How much it cost to change EGR or DPF?

I am using normal City Diesel from Sainsbury for the past 6 months. Let me try for V-Power next time.

Thanks

Use BP not V-Power, for some reason Shell's fuel burns more faster? Or is it just me? I fill tank and it blows in 2 days, normally take 4-5 days, same journey nothing different.

EGR/DPF are both quite expensive to replace. Better off getting them cleaned!

To 'clean' the DPF, just need to take it on a longish motorway run so that the exhaust gets hot enough to burn it all off (Tip: If you have a 6th gear, don't use it when doing this as the engine will never get hot enough!)

EGR is fairly easy too, just need to remove a handful of bolts, remove some hoses and plugs, then take the EGR valve out and spray its insides with carb cleaner until all the crud has come off :lol: There are a few guides on here that can help with that.

I do find the Shell V-Power diesel tends to get used up faster when I use it too; I think it's partly because I tend to drive differently (More revs!) than with normal diesel, but also because the fuel has a lower energy content per litre than normal diesel (It's basically semi-synth diesel with lots of extra additives; the synthetic diesel part has a lower energy content than mineral diesel, and the cleaning agents obv. have almost no energy content!).

It does burn faster and more completely to off-set this (This is why engines that normally sound pretty rough tend to run quieter with the V-Power diesel), but only partially.

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