Brake Disks

[cooper12000]

a while a go I put on a pair of adl blueprint disks on the front of my 2008 2.0d avensis estate. with in a couple of months I had managed to warp them. I took the car to the garage and they put pagid brake disks on. Again I have now got warped disks after only about 5000 miles. It seems to me that they are fine on short trips but as soon as I travel up north or to wales I destroy them in a single trip.

has anyone had this issue if so what was the cause as the garage are adamant the calipers are fine. if I have to go down the route of performance parts which I don't agree with as the car should be capable of doing the speeds it was designed to do. how much are the parts.

many thanks

coop

[FROSTYBALLS]

One of the common causes of warped discs is the driver holding the car when stationary, using the brakes rather than the handbrake, especially after a period of either prolonged braking from high speed or a period of hard braking. The applied brake pads don't allow the discs to cool evenly, and the discs warp.

[cooper12000]

thanks for that I didn't know that but makes sense when I think about it. im now trying to rack my brains to see if that's what I did. I know I am a lazy sod and tend to hold the car on the brakes at lights around towns etc..... but cant remember if that was happening whilst on my trip to wales.

many thanks

coop

[Konrad C]

I had the same thing happen with the same ADL Blueprint brakes. I try not to hold the car on footbrake. I have used other brands with no problem, so changed the brakes a couple of months ago and no problems so far. The Blueprints were in for a year.

I had a problem not happen with the calliper holder bracket - The bolt had sheared off and the bracket mating face was gouged when try to remove the remnants of the broken bolt. It was only a minute damage but it could have been enough. I replaced the bracket when replacing the Blueprint discs with a different brand in August. My mechanic say the other bracket would not caused the disc to warp.

It is hard to pin the issue to brand, but like I said before other brands have never warped.

[t-spiritpete]

Under most driving conditions brake disc/rotor warping is a myth, the vibration you feel back through the pedal in most cases is caused by the pad friction material being transfered onto the rotor. The only way to get over this is to fit matching discs and pads, you may be able to get these from a motor factors but the best way is to fit genuine and in this case Toyota parts. In most cases fitting parts from other suppliers will or may be ok, we have all done it and got away with it but fitting two sets can be more expensive than fitting one genuine set.

Also when replacing the new discs make sure the face of the hub is clean where it mates up with the back of the disc along with where the back of the road wheel bolts on to the front face of the disc and then torque the wheel bolts up correctly.

Pete.

[Heidfirst]

" if I have to go down the route of performance parts which I don't agree with as the car should be capable of doing the speeds it was designed to do. how much are the parts."

On my T25 2.2 Tourer I replaced the oem disks & pads with MTEC disks & Ferodo Premier pads - not the cheapest but still cheaper than oem replacements.

They had better brake feel & imo stopping performance. Were still going fine when I sold the car.

[Mistermena]

Pete is right... There is a myth about discs warping! The truth is that the friction material gets deposited onto the disc when hot that causes it to feel like the discs are out of true. They can be cleaned up! But it takes time. There is a good thread on the Chrysler Grand Voyager forum about this. If you've been on the brakes hard! Then you need to not hold the car on the footbrake.

[Konrad C]

Under most driving conditions brake disc/rotor warping is a myth, the vibration you feel back through the pedal in most cases is caused by the pad friction material being transfered onto the rotor. The only way to get over this is to fit matching discs and pads, you may be able to get these from a motor factors but the best way is to fit genuine and in this case Toyota parts. In most cases fitting parts from other suppliers will or may be ok, we have all done it and got away with it but fitting two sets can be more expensive than fitting one genuine set.

Also when replacing the new discs make sure the face of the hub is clean where it mates up with the back of the disc along with where the back of the road wheel bolts on to the front face of the disc and then torque the wheel bolts up correctly.

Pete.

Pete is right... There is a myth about discs warping! The truth is that the friction material gets deposited onto the disc when hot that causes it to feel like the discs are out of true. They can be cleaned up! But it takes time. There is a good thread on the Chrysler Grand Voyager forum about this. If you've been on the brakes hard! Then you need to not hold the car on the footbrake.

This is new to me.

It just happens that I still have the Blueprint discs because they are in very good condition. They are hardly worn after 12 months use. So if they could be cleaned and checked, they could be re-used? When the discs were first installed, they came with the matching brake pads. Just like the current set on my car, and the previous Apex set which did 5 years and no problems.

Since the original posters car is only 6 years old, the cost of buying genuine Toyota brakes may be okay, but most owners want to keep cost down when fixing older cars.

So long as the part is made to a high standard and matches or better the specs, there should be no problems.

PS

I found the Chrysler Voyager thread regarding the variable thickness disc and how it was fixed - http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/warped-brake-disc-22943/

You really need to know what you are doing and a bit of patience.

[BALIKBAYAN]

A very interesting thread as I plan to change all 4 discs on my car they have passed minimum thickness. I will not use ADL blueprints as two members who have written in this thread have had bad experience with that brand. I have been thinking of black diamond discs or Toyota discs. Could anyone give me some advises on wich to buy.

I read the workshop manual today about the brakes. It mentioned that you should inspect the disc runout with a dial indicator. Is that really neccesary with brand new discs? I understand that you might do it with old discs, but new discs should be ok.

[cooper12000]

BAL new disks should be ok and not need checking. the reason u might check disks is if u were servicing the brakes and making sure everything was ok.... but as u said as ur replacing the disks anyways no need to check them.

[cooper12000]

ok I appreciate if u have the money one should use oe stuff. however I fail to see how using non oe disks and pads would cause the symptoms I describe if that was the case and all I replaced was the disk and pads I would continue to have the issue from the get go.... not only after a long drive.

anyways this is kinda academic now as the garage that did the work have said they will replace them free of charge. I was just interested to try and learn the reason why they warped.

many thanks for the replys guys

coop

[Mistermena]

I had MTEC on my T180 drilled and groved (Black Addition) with Mintex pads. Very good and a lot cheaper that lots of other makes. I have a set of drilled ones with Mintex pads on our Grand Voyager. Really pleased. My Gt4 205 has EBC Tutbo Grove with Yellow stuff that are just amazing. Black Diamond are supposed to be good! But I've never had them, so can't really say to much on these...

[Mistermena]

A very interesting thread as I plan to change all 4 discs on my car they have passed minimum thickness. I will not use ADL blueprints as two members who have written in this thread have had bad experience with that brand. I have been thinking of black diamond discs or Toyota discs. Could anyone give me some advises on wich to buy.

I read the workshop manual today about the brakes. It mentioned that you should inspect the disc runout with a dial indicator. Is that really neccesary with brand new discs? I understand that you might do it with old discs, but new discs should be ok.

Don't bother with Toyota discs as they are Bosch and not that great. You can get new performance disc's for the cost of flat discs! The difference between Genuine Toyota flat discs and something like the MTEC drilled and groved is massive. You don't need to check the run out ect! Just bang them on and go.

[BALIKBAYAN]

Thanx for the answers both Mistermena and Cooper.