Avensis Key Query

[doobs]

Folks - as an ex Auris owner I have not been on here for some while but my father has just bought a used Avensis 2.0 D4D TR Estate on a 58 plate - first impressions very favourable and looks in cracking condition for its age and mileage - 4 DVD's for the sat nav as well!. The query is that when the previous owner (I spoke with them) traded the car in to a certain dealer it had 2 working master remote keys - somehow that dealer lost one of the keys, chopped it into a local auction with only one key. The auction and dealer confirmed the position on the keys to me. We have now bought the car from another dealer but the only key that they initially had was a master key with no inner
bits in - god only knows how that happened (see pic) Therefore, they purchased a brand new remote key from Toyota and that works as it should. We now have a fully functioning master remote and to all intents and purposes a further genuine key without the remote function.

When at home we thought we would lock the car with the remote key and then test the non remote key out by using it in the external door lock - the alarm sounded as we expected (although the selling dealer advised us the alarm would not sound!) and then we used the non remote key to start the car - the selling dealer advised the non remote key would start the car and to our surprise the car started but the alarm continued for a few seconds before stopping of its own accord - at least we think it stopped of its own accord as Dad had the working remote with him but does not think he accidentally pressed any of the buttons to deactivate the alarm!

From what I understand, the non remote key has a transponder or similar somehow built into the key/plastic casing which deactivates the immobiliser and allows the engine to start.

Can someone please clarify

1. Did the alarm stop as the non remote key deactivated the immobiliser/started the engine and that itself is enough to shut the alarm off?

2. As it appears the non remote key will start the engine, does this mean that we can somehow make the non remote key a remote key by sourcing second hand internals/circuit board and then use the widely publicised programming technique, rather than buying either a used unit and having a key cut or buying a new remote from Toyota etc?

3. The non remote original key has CE0123 - CLBT/C/245/2002 DENSO 1512V (in that order) on, the new working remote key has VALEO 736670-A CE 0523 P-14-138/2002 (in that order) on. Both are Toyota keys. If we are to source either internals/circuit board for the non remote key or a used remote and new cut key, how do I know which set of numbers to match to as I cant see any obvious similarities!

4. If we buy a used remote/key, is it possible to get a Toyota 2 button compatible remote key and lose the rear hatch opening button if need be? In fact in theory can it be a non Toyota key if the parts number is correct as we only really need the internal bits if they were the correct size/shape

I enclose pictures of the two keys and any advice would be appreciated - if I have posted something I should not have done, no doubt someone will advise me!

[Heidfirst]

can only answer 1. & that is, yes.

[doobs]

Lots of views but few replies! We have now managed to source an eBay key which says it is an identical part number to that of the new remote key, so fingers crossed once the internals are placed in the non remote transponder key it will programme ok and away we go!

[doobs]

Folks - can anyone help? We have purchased another complete remote key from eBay with the same part number as our existing working remote. On taking apart the eBay key, there was no obvious "chip " in it, so I assumed it was in the key head where it meets with the black plastic Shell. We then put the inner battery/circuit bits from the eBay key into our non remote Shell key (see pics above in earlier thread) only to find there was a black small rectangular thing stuck to the body of the non remote black plastic Shell - is this the "chip"? If so, not sure if we have damaged it now as did not know what it was so tried to remove it, as for some reason it was stopping the two halves of the plastic shell going back together once the internal bits were fitted ! It appears that the shape/design of the two keys is very slightly different, so that's why we tried to transplant a bit from one key to another! What I don't understand was, the ebay working remote did not appear to have any obvious "chip" in it - assuming what I described earlier was the "chip"

One other thing is, I have not seen many people many the frequency the remote operates at - does the fact that the part numbers match mean we should be ok once sorted, or is the frequency crucial - the reason I ask is that not many sellers mention the frequency - any advice appreciated

[plasma99]

Hi. I've just been through this after losing one of my master keys. Like most people, my solution was to buy a cheap blank key off eBay and a second hand complete key. I'm pretty sure there is no chip built into the blank key package (otherwise it would be more pricey). I think it is all built into the electronic inner package. I simply switched the electronic inners from the second hand key to the new key which I then got cut. I was able to programme the new key no problem. Just had to carry out the "erase all keys" function before the immobiliser part would programme.

The design of the blank key was slightly different to the second hand key so I had to file off the little plastic notches from the inner electronics package before it would fit into the new key properly.

My existing master key and the second hand key were the same part number but I'm sure there were different numbers (maybe indicating frequency) labelled on the outside. It still programmed OK.

I'm just confused how you started the car with what appears to be a blank key. Does the security led flash red before you put the blank key in the ignition and then stop flashing once the key is inserted? That is when I knew my key had been programmed correctly for the immobiliser.

[doobs]

thanks - plasma99 - we were able to start the car as the Shell key was I understand formerly one of the official keys but somehow the inner bits went missing. I understood the "chip" was either built into the head of the key or was perhaps the little black magnet type of thing stuck to the inside of the plastic Shell, so that is why it started the car? Do we know whether the frequency (if important) relates to the "chip" or the remote inner bits? Thats what I am not sure of - Funnily enough we had to also file a bit off but one half of the original plastic Shell (with the magnety thing) will now not fit back on, so is not being used - must try it on the car to see the whether it still starts or not!

[plasma99]

I wouldn't like to hazard a guess on the frequencies. Can't you just give it a go (programming)? You must have a transponder chip built into the second hand key inners that you bought so it shouldn't matter if you've trashed what could be a stand alone chip in the non-remote key. Obviously you will just need to programme to the new transponder chip.

[doobs]

The first picture is of our eBay inner remote key bits that we want to transplant into non remote Shell key - am I correct in thinking that the oval marked bit is the transponder/chip - in other words it is integrated (but removable?) into the remote gubbins? The reason I ask is because on our non remote Shell in the second picture there is what looks like a mini magnet type thing which looks like it has been superglued to the inside of the Shell. I think that as there was no inner remote bits on the shell key, someone has put a standalone chip in the shell so it acts as a transponder starting key without the remote function - is this correct? Ideally we want to keep the superglued transponder functioning as it saves having to program the chip side of things again, but the remote inner bits wont fit in the shell key due to positioning of the magnet/chip. Assuming the inner remote gubbins does house a transponder/chip, looks like we will have to do a full inner remote transplant and program both the transponder chip and remote bits. We will attempt to program it shortly but are lacking a bit in confidence at present so any further advice appreciated!

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[doobs]

No luck with programming immobiliser side of things via "add" method and Dad did not want to try "erase" bit, so called a local auto locksmith to see if they can come and sort it out! I would have persevered but Dad did not want to!

[plasma99]

The erase function does not delete the master key you are using to programme the new key. Numerous posts make that clear.

[doobs]

I know but my dad does not seem to have the confidence to want to do it! Its such a shame that we cant just do the remote programming bit, but there does not seem any easy way of preserving the working chip that has been stuck to the inside of the Shell key - in addition the remote gubbins bit is slightly different to what I have seen posted elsewhere in terms of the onboard chip bit - as there does not seem any easy way to remove that chip even if we could remove and transplant the "stuck in" chip