Avensis Doesn't Turn Over (Diesel 2007 D4D 2.2L)

[astoy]

Hi,

I've a 2007 Toyota Avensis 2.2L Diesel D4D.

This morning it wouldn't turn over.

I thought it was a flat Battery (due to cold) - but I don't think it is (Central Remote Locking, Cabin Lights, Headlights, Blowers, Heaters, ECU etc all appear to work).

I just tried it again, it doesn't turn over. Not convinced its a flat Battery but whatever it is causes the Car Clock to reset to 12:00 when I try to turn the engine.

I'm fearing this is the Starter motor, but I just tried bump starting (unsuccesffully - but I don't want to roll it too far away from the house as I'll only have to push it back on my own). The Bump start didn't work, I may try this again tomorrow.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks.

[Heidfirst]

Have you tried jump starting it (btw if you read the manual you should find that it recommends not to bump start)?

That should eliminate the Battery from the equation.

Are you getting any noises (clicks etc.)?

[astoy]

Hi Heidfirst,

It was early in morning and late at night so I didn't get the opportunity to jump start.

I'll arrange to do that tonight, anything I should look for?

If it starts is there any risk to driving the car away or shall I use this as diagnosis only?

Ive been reading another thread, which suggests checking fuses. I think this is different because of the temporary flattening of the battery: if it was a blown fuse no current would flow rather than too much current flows.

I don't notice any clicks. Its dead almost as soon as I turn the key. No turning, no clicking.

I'll put a voltmeter across Battery tonight.

The lights etc aren't showing any dimming until I turn the key. Then voltage gets so low the clock resets.

Thanks,

Andy

[astoy]

Hi,

I did a quick test before work this morning:

OBD2 (via Android app TORQUE) reported no errors and communicated fine with ECU.

It looks like the Battery may have gone (hopefully only the battery). Measures 11.4V (with key in) and drops massively when I turn ignition (down to 2.5V - hard to accurately measure since it was a digital meter).

I cannot find any reference to previous owner(s) changing Battery - though this may have been done seperately to the other service history items and just not saved with other receipts.

Is the voltage a sign of a dead Battery or just a flat battery?

Shall I bother trying to jump start, or just get a new battery?

p.s., there is a "Click" when I turn on the ignition.

Thanks,

-Andy.

[syncview]

yep that Battery is done for - voltage too low when you try to crank, normally voltage drops to about 9-10 when cranking on a good Battery

you should be able to jump start it though

[alan333]

Make sure the Battery light on your dash comes on with the ignition and goes off when you start the engine. It's looking like it's your Battery, but it could also be the charging circuit.

[astoy]

Hi Syncview,

Thanks for confirming that. I'll pop out and buy one later today.

The Question is will there be anything else wrong that flattened the battery(?)

Thanks,

-Andy.

[astoy]

Thanks Alan,

I'll check that. Right now I'm curious as to how old the Battery is, It'll have a date stamp somewhere but I reckon it's not been changed by previous owner who was matriculous about keeping receipts to do with his car.

-Andy.

[astoy]

Hi,

I tried jump starting it, it didn't work, twice.

So I removed and charged the Battery.

Its started 3 times off the recharged Battery. I drove to Eurocarparts, had old one tested, then bought a new one.

Not fitted it yet.

My question is what voltage should the car be at when running? E.g. what is the alternators voltage?

Thanks,

Andy.

[alan333]

Sometimes jump leads are too light to put enough juice through to a flat Battery. If it's starting with a charged Battery then it's still either the Battery or the charging circuit.

With engine running the battery should show over 12 volts, like maybe 14.8 or so.

[astoy]

I thought about that too.......

I'll throw the new Battery in and test voltage. It may need a new alternator too.

Andy.

[Exvec]

Anything between 14.2 and 14 .6/7 should be fine with the alternator charging correctly but you need to switch a few things on as well including HRW, Lights, Radio , Wipers etc and with all switched on the voltage output should not drop below 14 volts and even then it could false read as you may have a cell on its way out or you could have a parasitic current draw in which case you can do a relatively easy test to check this out..

[astoy]

Thanks for the tip.

I checked the Battery voltage just now(still old battery) and it's 14.2V with engine running and headlights on.

I'll check it again tomorrow when I put the new Battery in.

One odd thing that might help others spot a Battery on its way out is the behaviour of the satnav. Recently I thought the Head unit was on its way out because the map DVD just kept "indexing" (noisey rattle) when turning on. Often it would display a message about "No map" or "Checking Map Dvd".

I thought I'd have to replace it. But after charging up the old cell I've not had the problem since.

The map works every time.

Now all I need to do is get a DVD more recent than 2007!!!

Thanks.

Andy.

[syncview]

Hi,

I tried jump starting it, it didn't work, twice.

So I removed and charged the battery.

Its started 3 times off the recharged battery. I drove to Eurocarparts, had old one tested, then bought a new one.

Not fitted it yet.

My question is what voltage should the car be at when running? E.g. what is the alternators voltage?

Thanks,

Andy.

if it starts up a charged Battery but doesn't jump start, you got some really bad jump leads

The running voltage of an alternator is about 14.4v, if it is more than that the voltage regulator is shot

Connect a voltage meter and start the car up, turn on all electrical loads and note the voltage. . If its about 13 at idle it's good, marginally lower than 13 mostly means bad - increase idle speed to about 1500 to check if the voltage gets better