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58 D4D Yaris Discharging Battery, Help.


ROSECOT16
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Hello, I have had my 58 plate diesel yaris for about a year. Had no problems with it until recently, I thought the batter had failed with the cold season upon us. I bought a new one off eBay, but over the course of a couple of days of no use the car refused to start. I have had the Battery off the vehicle and checked it. I am confident it is not the Battery. I have had an ammeter on the Battery whilst on the vehicle and it seems to be discharging. Anyone got any ideas on where to start? Not heard of these types of problems before with Toyota.

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Start with the interior and boot lights. Switch the courtesy light right off and remove the bulb from the boot light. If the current drain is still the same then that's 2 common causes ruled out! If you know what fuses protect what circuits you can try removing a fuse at a time to see if the drain reduces or stops as you remove each one in turn.

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yes i checked all lights and removed fuses from main fuse box one at a time. there was no change in discharge which is .44amps. I could'nt find other fuse box in passenger glove box I have since learnt how to get into it - to remove fuses one at a time.

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If I remember Physics from school all those years ago you are looking for something consuming 5.28 watts. Still sounds like a 5w light bulb somewhere but you have already checked the obvious ones. Side and tail lights are usually 5w but you would notice if one of those was on. Good hunting with the glovebox fuses! Not a light in there is there? :bye:

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Thanks for your attempts to be helpful it is very much appreciated. I wasn't accurate when i said removing fuses from main fuse box did not find problem.There was a reduction actually on the two 7.5 fuses. The amp reading did drop from .44amp to .127amp I put that one back, removed the other amps dropped from .44amp to.129amp. I was looking for a fuse that drop from .44amp to .02 or .03. maybe removing both these 7.5 amp fuses would give me this .02/.03amp I'm looking for. Will try that tomorrow before I have a go at the fuses in the glove box. Does anyone know what these two 7.5 fuses protect? Thanks.

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Hi - Removed both 7.5 amp fuses together this am. the amps dropped from 4.4 to .o1/.02. Fantastic found the parasitic draw down.

The fuses are marked ecu.b & alt.s. The problem now is - how to I fix this? I have'nt a clue! Any ideas anyone.

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Someone had the same problem in 2012:- http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38442. Probably doesn't help but the first thing I would now try would be to disconnect the Battery for a few minutes and then reconnect it in case something has got "confused".

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Hi mate I had same problem with a diesel Corolla and made a post. I had someone really helpful called oldcodger who helped me. I think its your alternator almost 100%

http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/lofiversion/index.php?t160620.html

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Have you confirmed the Alternator is charging as it should with the car started you should be seeing a charging voltage between 12.2v - 15.3v at 2000-2500rpm ( for a 1.4d4d NLP90 Yaris ), anything lower and your alternator is not providing a sufficient charge to the Battery.

As for the current drain try monitoring the drain for a longer period after shutting down. Make sure the car is off and locked as normal and if the car has keyless entry move the fob atleast 10 metres from the car, after a period of time 5-20 minutes depending on the cars body ECU the car will go into sleep mode and the drain should drop to a much lower level. Checking straight after shut down, with the car unlocked, bonnet open or keyless keys in range means the car will not go into sleep mode and Battery drain will remain quite high.

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Hi all and thanks. To summarise. I have two batteries (old original and new). Both hold charge at 12.64v or more off car. Connected to car they drop to12.25v overnight, car starts ok. That's fine if car used daily. I am elderly, car is not used daily.

My yaris has this .44amp drain at all times. I understand drain should be only .02/.03amp. This reading is by connecting 10amp meter in series between disconnected car neg cable and Battery neg pol.

Ian. Alternator is charging 14.75v at 2500rpm. Seems to be doing what it should no warning lights on dash. Keys away from car so ecu is asleep. I tried brand new 7.5 fuses ( someone suggested old fuses maybe soiled and not contacting). Any ideas how to solve anyone?

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I have the same problem with my RAV4. I plug in a trickle charger every 3 days. Did not wanted to spend money to fix it.

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Alternator is problem

I'm thinking that too. The electronics packs on them can develop quite subtle faults.

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Is it not possible to disconnect the wiring to the alternator itself to prove the problem?

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Yes start car and let it run for 5 min. Give it a good rev and then open bonnet. When car is running disconnect negative Battery terminal. If car stalls and turns off almost instantly or within 60 seconds altertnator needs replacing. If it stays started and carries on running for 60 seconds or more and then stalls, then its Battery problem

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I was just thinking of disconnecting all wiring to the alternator with the engine off to see if the Battery drain stops with it disconnected.

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Hi Thanks All. Your enthusiasm interest and ideas was overwhelming and compelled me to act.

I was completely mislead by alternator doing its job, charging 14+v when needed. It apparently is also draining the Battery when switched off. Removing leads from the alternator stopped the Battery drain.

It will be a scrapyard replacement. Yes I know it might be dodgy I am willing to take that risk for around £20 -£30. Does anyone know if petrol yaris or any other alternator fit the 58 plate diesel?

Thanks once again.

Keith

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my GUESS would be the diesel alternator may be a bit beefier then a petrol one due to the demands of a diesel engine at start up. Only a guess though.

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Hi Thanks All. Your enthusiasm interest and ideas was overwhelming and compelled me to act.

I was completely mislead by alternator doing its job, charging 14+v when needed. It apparently is also draining the battery when switched off. Removing leads from the alternator stopped the battery drain.

It will be a scrapyard replacement. Yes I know it might be dodgy I am willing to take that risk for around £20 -£30. Does anyone know if petrol yaris or any other alternator fit the 58 plate diesel?

Thanks once again.

Keith

The alternator on your car is specific to a MK2 Yaris 1.4 D4D 5 speed French built Nov 2005 > Nov 2008 part number 27060-0N011 new or 27060-0N011-84 Remanufactured

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DO NOT use petrol alternator on it!!!!!!!!!!! I have experience and you will wreck other electrics such as starter and you will need new Battery, this happen to me 2 months ago!!!

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Hi Thanks All. Your enthusiasm interest and ideas was overwhelming and compelled me to act.

I was completely mislead by alternator doing its job, charging 14+v when needed. It apparently is also draining the battery when switched off. Removing leads from the alternator stopped the battery drain.

It will be a scrapyard replacement. Yes I know it might be dodgy I am willing to take that risk for around £20 -£30. Does anyone know if petrol yaris or any other alternator fit the 58 plate diesel?

Thanks once again.

Keith

The alternator on your car is specific to a MK2 Yaris 1.4 D4D 5 speed French built Nov 2005 > Nov 2008 part number 27060-0N011 new or 27060-0N011-84 Remanufactured

Thanks Lee- good info - my car is semi auto (s-a) VNKKC96380A201054 does this change your info?

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Yes start car and let it run for 5 min. Give it a good rev and then open bonnet. When car is running disconnect negative battery terminal. If car stalls and turns off almost instantly or within 60 seconds altertnator needs replacing. If it stays started and carries on running for 60 seconds or more and then stalls, then its battery problem

I wouldn't dare try that. If the alternator is faulty the Battery could be holding the voltage down rather than up. If the volts go up a lot you could be looking at replacing an awful lot of electronics - ECU, Audio system, Instrument cluster are just the obvious ones.

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Yes start car and let it run for 5 min. Give it a good rev and then open bonnet. When car is running disconnect negative battery terminal. If car stalls and turns off almost instantly or within 60 seconds altertnator needs replacing. If it stays started and carries on running for 60 seconds or more and then stalls, then its battery problem

I wouldn't dare try that. If the alternator is faulty the Battery could be holding the voltage down rather than up. If the volts go up a lot you could be looking at replacing an awful lot of electronics - ECU, Audio system, Instrument cluster are just the obvious ones.

Thats true I have researched and seen this too. Please dont try that sorry :P I used to do it on my old bangers and worked well but just seen new threads.

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