Avensis Rear Brake Pad Replacement

[pramsbottom]

Hi all, I'm going to need to change the rear pads on my 2010 avensis tourer but the epb is giving me cause for concern, I've read conflicting info some saying it needs to be reset by computer others saying you can hold down the switch to force a reset. Can anyone shed any light in this.

Peter

[garytoy]

I'll be doing this too when the weather warms up, so I'll be interested in hearing how you get on. I've found the same as you in the archives - that it seems as though you need a Toyota computer, apart from one post where the chap seems sure that holding down the button will reset/recalibrate the brake. Mine's a 2009 T27.

[tyseley1]

i can confirm after doing my partners 2010 tourer that you can reset with the button.i brought a autel electronic brake reset tool to do the job but it didnt wind the pistons back far enough for the new pads so ended up doing them by hand.i reset the brake with the button and checked for any fault codes with autel tool and non found so useing the button will work.i was a bit confused before i did it thats why i ended up paying £168 for a tool which dosent quite do the job.i hope this helps you out.just remembered pistons cannot just be pushed back in with a g clamp as on older cars but must be wound in one clockwise and the other anticlockwise but cant remember which is which.can be quite hard to do if you havent got a propper manual rewind tool.i had one but was only for right hand thread so ended up useing 2 screwdriver on other side and a bit of force was needed to turn and push in piston at same time,ebay do sets of rewind tools at a fair price.

[garytoy]

Thanks tyseley - that's reassuring to know.

[garytoy]

Actually I've just found this guide that also makes it seem fairly straightforward: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MA/markthebooler/2013-05-19_181925_electric_parking_brake_epb.pdf

Brake pad removal and fitting:

NOTE: Refer to Technical Data module for brake disc and drum dimensions.

• Remove rear wheels.
• Detach parking brake cable bracket from rear suspension trailing arm.
• Detach parking brake cable from rear brake caliper lever.
• Detach rear brake caliper from caliper carrier.
• Remove rear brake pads. If brake pads are to be re-used ensure they are marked to enable them to be re-fitted to their
• original positions.
• Press rear brake caliper piston fully in. Tool No.09960-100100.
• Ensure caliper piston aligns with brake pad locator pins.
• Fit brake pads.
• Fit rear brake caliper to caliper carrier. Tightening torque: Refer to Technical Data module.
• Fit and lightly tighten wheel nut to secure brake disc in position.
• Start engine.
• Operate brake pedal until resistance is felt.
• Check clearance between outer brake pad and brake disc with feeler gauge. Clearance must not exceed 0,4 mm.
• Switch ignition OFF.
• Remove wheel nut.
• Fit parking brake cable to rear brake caliper lever. Use new retaining clip.
• Fit parking brake cable bracket to rear suspension trailing arm.
• Fit rear wheels. Tightening torque: Refer to Technical Data module.
• Top up brake fluid. Refer to Technical Data module.

Resetting

• Switch ignition ON.
• Press and hold EPB switch for 5 seconds.

[Konrad C]

Now I even more confident about doing any rear brake disc/pads change if they are needed.

It would have been silly to make a system too complicated, that basic jobs like brake servicing left to specialists and diagnostic equipment.

Now to hope in later years, there are conversions to retro fit manual cable handbrake if the EPB totally fails. I know there is a place that repairs the unit.

[revband]

I understand that the later models apply the parking brake automatically, but on the early ones it is a simple job, my son has a 2009 tourer and I have a 2011 tourer on both of these we have replaced the rear pads with just a wind back tool as you would on most cars, no need to interfere with the epb in any way and no reset required. Remove old pads, wind back caliper, fit now pads ensuring correct location with pins on caliper, reassemble, test brake, job done, or have we just been lucky?.

[Eric2020]

Needed to change the rear pads on my 2010 Avensis tourer, found this thread and it was helpful so I thought I’d share my experience.

Chocked front wheels, ignition on, released electronic handbrake, ignition off. Was able to change rear pads as normal (remember left hand rear Caliper has a left hand thread when rewinding). Then pump brake pedal to get pads to engage, start engine and press brake pedal some more to get everything nicely lined up, then engage the handbrake.

I didn’t need to reset anything electronically and handbrake works exactly as before. Hope this is helpful to someone else.

[Konrad C]

16 minutes ago, Eric2020 said:

Needed to change the rear pads on my 2010 Avensis tourer, found this thread and it was helpful so I thought I’d share my experience.

Chocked front wheels, ignition on, released electronic handbrake, ignition off. Was able to change rear pads as normal (remember left hand rear Caliper has a left hand thread when rewinding). Then pump brake pedal to get pads to engage, start engine and press brake pedal some more to get everything nicely lined up, then engage the handbrake.

I didn’t need to reset anything electronically and handbrake works exactly as before. Hope this is helpful to someone else.

Great job. Very easy to do when you know how. Very satisfying.
When you wound back the pistons, did you make sure the cut outs in the piston were horizontal. The calipers need to fit over protrusions on the back of the pads, when refitting. If forced on, the pads will wear unevenly or the caliper is skewed to one side. Happened to me from a previous brake pad change. I have done other make of cars rear brakes, including Renault Grand Scenic which has EPB. 

[Miick]

On 1/13/2020 at 8:24 PM, Konrad C said:

Great job. Very easy to do when you know how. Very satisfying.
When you wound back the pistons, did you make sure the cut outs in the piston were horizontal. The calipers need to fit over protrusions on the back of the pads, when refitting. If forced on, the pads will wear unevenly or the caliper is skewed to one side. Happened to me from a previous brake pad change. I have done other make of cars rear brakes, including Renault Grand Scenic which has EPB. 

Hello.

I'm in need of advice.  In December 2018 our 2014 2.0 d4d avensis went into toyota for an MOT and a full service. After dropping the car off and getting home, Toyota called to advise that the rear brake discs and pads were worn down unevenly and said they needed changing. So we agreed for the work to be carried out at an extra cost of £260.00. So recently i fitted pads and discs on the front. And decided to inspect the rear pads and discs.  I was very surprised what i found. I removed the calipar on the rear drivers side. Took the pad on the inside out to see it had worn down unevenly. I checked the other side and it has done exactly the same on the inside pad is well. I've never seen this before. 

 

So we contacted toyota this week. Who we bought the actual car from in March 2018 and also extended the warranty by an extra 2 years when buying it.  It took 3 days for my wife to get someone on the phone to discuss our concerns about the pads. They took the car in yesterday.  They advised my wife they would be charging a diagnostic fee of £110.00 which she disagreed because we wanted the work they carried out in Dec 2018  to be inspected as to why the pads on the rear on the inside had completely worn down unevenly. 

They called to say all pads and calipars are fine. The pads had 4 mm on them. I asked had the removed the calipars to actually inspect the pads on the inside. Which they didn't.  They insisted they've used they're top technician.  But the service manger hadn't got a clue what he was talking about.  I was starting to lose the rage because during the the health check they marked the rear discs and pads as red in immediate need of changing. So some other eejit supervisor technician rang to say my pads were normal to wear unevenly  on the inside and also an sent an email pictures of new brake pads with a  chamfer on the edges. I asked him to also send a picture of my pads beside the new one. Which he didn't.  In the end he insisted my was were fine. They would pass a MOT. But the technician said different on the health check. The discs have a 2 mm lip on both sides. Which is nothing really.  

The conversation finished up at so would you like us to change your pads and discs. At at cost of £270.00. I said no. Put it back together and my wife will be down.

 

What do i do, where to go from here because clearly something is wrong with the calipars. 

Thanks 

 

Michael

[mrfixer]

1 hour ago, Miick said:

Hello.

I'm in need of advice.  In December 2018 our 2014 2.0 d4d avensis went into toyota for an MOT and a full service. After dropping the car off and getting home, Toyota called to advise that the rear brake discs and pads were worn down unevenly and said they needed changing. So we agreed for the work to be carried out at an extra cost of £260.00. So recently i fitted pads and discs on the front. And decided to inspect the rear pads and discs.  I was very surprised what i found. I removed the calipar on the rear drivers side. Took the pad on the inside out to see it had worn down unevenly. I checked the other side and it has done exactly the same on the inside pad is well. I've never seen this before. 

 

So we contacted toyota this week. Who we bought the actual car from in March 2018 and also extended the warranty by an extra 2 years when buying it.  It took 3 days for my wife to get someone on the phone to discuss our concerns about the pads. They took the car in yesterday.  They advised my wife they would be charging a diagnostic fee of £110.00 which she disagreed because we wanted the work they carried out in Dec 2018  to be inspected as to why the pads on the rear on the inside had completely worn down unevenly. 

They called to say all pads and calipars are fine. The pads had 4 mm on them. I asked had the removed the calipars to actually inspect the pads on the inside. Which they didn't.  They insisted they've used they're top technician.  But the service manger hadn't got a clue what he was talking about.  I was starting to lose the rage because during the the health check they marked the rear discs and pads as red in immediate need of changing. So some other eejit supervisor technician rang to say my pads were normal to wear unevenly  on the inside and also an sent an email pictures of new brake pads with a  chamfer on the edges. I asked him to also send a picture of my pads beside the new one. Which he didn't.  In the end he insisted my was were fine. They would pass a MOT. But the technician said different on the health check. The discs have a 2 mm lip on both sides. Which is nothing really.  

The conversation finished up at so would you like us to change your pads and discs. At at cost of £270.00. I said no. Put it back together and my wife will be down.

 

What do i do, where to go from here because clearly something is wrong with the calipars. 

Thanks 

 

Michael

Up until a couple of years ago a relative of mine was service manager at a large Toyota dealer. He had moved there from Mercedes. Like a lot of the better people from the franchised dealers he now runs his own independent workshop.

Most franchised dealers treat the service side as a cash-cow and use it to cross-subsidise other (loss-making) parts of the business. Hence service managers come under huge pressure to 'upsell' work and want to avoid an non-chargeable or remediation work at all costs. Moreover its hard to find competent technicians - pay is often poor. The young lads doing your basic servicing are probably on £10/hr but are being charged out at £100/hr.

Prior to my semi-retirement I had almost daily interaction with franchised dealers and their behaviour and business practices were often arrogant and appalling.  I suspect Covid will force a much-needed reset - I've heard already that some dealerships have found they can manage without their £100k/year sales managers.

In your case it sounds like the caliper/pad was mis-assembled or sticking on the slide pins. I don't think you will get far arguing with the dealer.

If I were you I would either DIY or take the car to a well-reviewed independent repairer and just ask him to fit a new set of rear brake pads and check/clean/replace slide pins. A set of Mintex pads are under £30 and a set of slide pins and rubbers are well under £20.

 

[Konrad C]

23 hours ago, Miick said:

Hello.

I'm in need of advice.  In December 2018 our 2014 2.0 d4d avensis went into toyota for an MOT and a full service. After dropping the car off and getting home, Toyota called to advise that the rear brake discs and pads were worn down unevenly and said they needed changing. So we agreed for the work to be carried out at an extra cost of £260.00. So recently i fitted pads and discs on the front. And decided to inspect the rear pads and discs.  I was very surprised what i found. I removed the calipar on the rear drivers side. Took the pad on the inside out to see it had worn down unevenly. I checked the other side and it has done exactly the same on the inside pad is well. I've never seen this before. 

 

So we contacted toyota this week. Who we bought the actual car from in March 2018 and also extended the warranty by an extra 2 years when buying it.  It took 3 days for my wife to get someone on the phone to discuss our concerns about the pads. They took the car in yesterday.  They advised my wife they would be charging a diagnostic fee of £110.00 which she disagreed because we wanted the work they carried out in Dec 2018  to be inspected as to why the pads on the rear on the inside had completely worn down unevenly. 

They called to say all pads and calipars are fine. The pads had 4 mm on them. I asked had the removed the calipars to actually inspect the pads on the inside. Which they didn't.  They insisted they've used they're top technician.  But the service manger hadn't got a clue what he was talking about.  I was starting to lose the rage because during the the health check they marked the rear discs and pads as red in immediate need of changing. So some other eejit supervisor technician rang to say my pads were normal to wear unevenly  on the inside and also an sent an email pictures of new brake pads with a  chamfer on the edges. I asked him to also send a picture of my pads beside the new one. Which he didn't.  In the end he insisted my was were fine. They would pass a MOT. But the technician said different on the health check. The discs have a 2 mm lip on both sides. Which is nothing really.  

The conversation finished up at so would you like us to change your pads and discs. At at cost of £270.00. I said no. Put it back together and my wife will be down.

 

What do i do, where to go from here because clearly something is wrong with the calipars. 

Thanks 

 

Michael

I know the reason why the inner brake pads wear unevenly and more than the outer pads. The wind back piston cut outs for the wind back tool to fit in, need to be horizontal to the caliper when the piston is wound back. The brake pads depending on make, have a little protrusion on the back of the pad. The pads have to be first inserted into the carrier, then the caliper installed after. If the piston is not horizontal, the protrusion makes it difficult, but still possible to force the caliper in place. The problem after is the piston will the only push on part of the brake pad, causing either the inner pad or piston to be skewed at an angle causing the uneven wear! 
I know from experience having to change the pads only after the wear indicator made the warning sound. basically the inner pads wore at an angle! The pads had enough material not to damage the discs. The pads had done 3 years and would still be on the car not if the piston had been set up correctly! Here is my post -  

 

[Miick]

On 7/26/2020 at 9:13 AM, Konrad C said:

I know the reason why the inner brake pads wear unevenly and more than the outer pads. The wind back piston cut outs for the wind back tool to fit in, need to be horizontal to the caliper when the piston is wound back. The brake pads depending on make, have a little protrusion on the back of the pad. The pads have to be first inserted into the carrier, then the caliper installed after. If the piston is not horizontal, the protrusion makes it difficult, but still possible to force the caliper in place. The problem after is the piston will the only push on part of the brake pad, causing either the inner pad or piston to be skewed at an angle causing the uneven wear! 
I know from experience having to change the pads only after the wear indicator made the warning sound. basically the inner pads wore at an angle! The pads had enough material not to damage the discs. The pads had done 3 years and would still be on the car not if the piston had been set up correctly! Here is my post -  

 

Cheets for the info. Much appreciated.  You know if i turn off the epb.Will it be possible to wind in piston at that?

 

Pads and discs arrived today. Piston tool winder thing comes tomorrow.  So hopefully I'll get it sorted at the weekend.

Thanks.

 

Michael

[Konrad C]

10 hours ago, Miick said:

Cheets for the info. Much appreciated.  You know if i turn off the epb.Will it be possible to wind in piston at that?

 

Pads and discs arrived today. Piston tool winder thing comes tomorrow.  So hopefully I'll get it sorted at the weekend.

Thanks.

 

Michael

Hope you are using a wind back kit like this -

 

When you wind back the pistons, make sure the cut outs are in line horizontally with the caliper or the caliper will need to be forced to fit over the brake pads. The photos are of a Vauxhall Corsa VXR I did last year. It had the same issue as the Avensis where the inner pad wore quickly.  piston in the wrong position. 

      piston in the correct position 

 Brake pad wore down at one end! 

 Just like the Avensis, there is a small protrusion on the back of the pad. The protrusion needs to fit within the cut out of the piston. 

Follow the info and you won't be doing the job again in a long while!

[Notoyboy]

@ Konrad,

I've read all about the cut-outs in your previous posts.  Your above photos provide the best explanation of the problem, thank you.  I read your posts in case I end up with an Avensis one day!

Martin

[Konrad C]

If the brake pads are flat on the rear without any protrusions, then this would not be an issue how the piston cut outs are positioned. 

[Miick]

22 hours ago, Konrad C said:

Hope you are using a wind back kit like this -

 

When you wind back the pistons, make sure the cut outs are in line horizontally with the caliper or the caliper will need to be forced to fit over the brake pads. The photos are of a Vauxhall Corsa VXR I did last year. It had the same issue as the Avensis where the inner pad wore quickly.  piston in the wrong position. 

      piston in the correct position 

 Brake pad wore down at one end! 

 Just like the Avensis, there is a small protrusion on the back of the pad. The protrusion needs to fit within the cut out of the piston. 

Follow the info and you won't be doing the job again in a long while!

I have thank. Arrives today. Fingers crossed. 🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻 Thank you for the info. Much appreciated.  Will update you Saturday 👍🏻🙏

[mrfixer]

On 7/29/2020 at 12:41 PM, Konrad C said:

If the brake pads are flat on the rear without any protrusions, then this would not be an issue how the piston cut outs are positioned. 

The protrusion is there to stop the piston rotating. Without it the self adjustment may not work properly.

[Konrad C]

50 minutes ago, mrfixer said:

The protrusion is there to stop the piston rotating. Without it the self adjustment may not work properly.

That's good to know. I am sure I mentioned the protrusion in the Auris forum, and somebody said that the brake pads are flat on his model! Maybe he confused it with the fronts or got third party brakes not made to spec?

[mrfixer]

50 minutes ago, Konrad C said:

That's good to know. I am sure I mentioned the protrusion in the Auris forum, and somebody said that the brake pads are flat on his model! Maybe he confused it with the fronts or got third party brakes not made to spec?

Not all rear caliper designs have the cut outs. For example one of the Nissin/Lucas types uses differently angled thread flanks on each face of the adjuster shaft thread (15deg and 45deg) to minimise torque on the piston. They would still have some means of gripping the piston through, to retract it when fitting new pads.

[ziauris]

On 7/25/2020 at 9:11 AM, Miick said:

Hello.

I'm in need of advice.  In December 2018 our 2014 2.0 d4d avensis went into toyota for an MOT and a full service. After dropping the car off and getting home, Toyota called to advise that the rear brake discs and pads were worn down unevenly and said they needed changing. So we agreed for the work to be carried out at an extra cost of £260.00. So recently i fitted pads and discs on the front. And decided to inspect the rear pads and discs.  I was very surprised what i found. I removed the calipar on the rear drivers side. Took the pad on the inside out to see it had worn down unevenly. I checked the other side and it has done exactly the same on the inside pad is well. I've never seen this before. 

 

So we contacted toyota this week. Who we bought the actual car from in March 2018 and also extended the warranty by an extra 2 years when buying it.  It took 3 days for my wife to get someone on the phone to discuss our concerns about the pads. They took the car in yesterday.  They advised my wife they would be charging a diagnostic fee of £110.00 which she disagreed because we wanted the work they carried out in Dec 2018  to be inspected as to why the pads on the rear on the inside had completely worn down unevenly. 

They called to say all pads and calipars are fine. The pads had 4 mm on them. I asked had the removed the calipars to actually inspect the pads on the inside. Which they didn't.  They insisted they've used they're top technician.  But the service manger hadn't got a clue what he was talking about.  I was starting to lose the rage because during the the health check they marked the rear discs and pads as red in immediate need of changing. So some other eejit supervisor technician rang to say my pads were normal to wear unevenly  on the inside and also an sent an email pictures of new brake pads with a  chamfer on the edges. I asked him to also send a picture of my pads beside the new one. Which he didn't.  In the end he insisted my was were fine. They would pass a MOT. But the technician said different on the health check. The discs have a 2 mm lip on both sides. Which is nothing really.  

The conversation finished up at so would you like us to change your pads and discs. At at cost of £270.00. I said no. Put it back together and my wife will be down.

 

What do i do, where to go from here because clearly something is wrong with the calipars. 

Thanks 

 

Michael

The stealers are total crooks. Bought from Toyota main dealer an approved used. Noticed low coolant level. Took it back to them  a week later and they lied straight to my face telling me the level is OK. Water pump was on it's way out and they knew this when they sold me the car. I believed  them so the car was running on very low coolant levels at motorway speeds and could    have blown the headgasket. My indy mechanic told me waterpump is about to fail as it was making a racket. NEVER TRUST THE STEALERSHIP.

[Miick]

On 7/30/2020 at 7:35 AM, Miick said:

I have thank. Arrives today. Fingers crossed. 🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻 Thank you for the info. Much appreciated.  Will update you Saturday 👍🏻🙏

Hello.

I had a very successful time changing my discs and pads.  The piston tool did the job perfectly.  All i had to do was press the epb in the off position twice and hold for about 5 sec.  And that released it. I was able to switch off the ignition at that. With blocked placed at the front wheel and left in gear. This is a 64 plate 2 L d4d avensis. 

At that. I got stuck in. Got the wheel off. Removed the calipars. Pads off. And also the calipars holder. Attached a wire brush to my little drill. Removed the old clips. Clean all that up. Lined up my piston. It was slighty off. Hence the uneven wear on the pads as you explained Konrad C. Inserted new clips. Coppers greased the edges of my pads and fitted my new discs. And bolted up the rest of the parts back on.Pumped the brakes. And did exactly the same on the other side.

 I fitted Brembo  discs and pads. At a cost of  £87.00 from Euro car parts on a promotional deal at weekends. 40% off.  The piston tool was £20.00 In total i saved myself £167.00 

Which is rather pleasing.

Thank you for all the advice . It is all very much appreciated. 

Michael

 

 

 

[Misba]

On 8/3/2020 at 9:40 PM, Miick said:

Hello.

I had a very successful time changing my discs and pads.  The piston tool did the job perfectly.  All i had to do was press the epb in the off position twice and hold for about 5 sec.  And that released it. I was able to switch off the ignition at that. With blocked placed at the front wheel and left in gear. This is a 64 plate 2 L d4d avensis. 

At that. I got stuck in. Got the wheel off. Removed the calipars. Pads off. And also the calipars holder. Attached a wire brush to my little drill. Removed the old clips. Clean all that up. Lined up my piston. It was slighty off. Hence the uneven wear on the pads as you explained Konrad C. Inserted new clips. Coppers greased the edges of my pads and fitted my new discs. And bolted up the rest of the parts back on.Pumped the brakes. And did exactly the same on the other side.

 I fitted Brembo  discs and pads. At a cost of  £87.00 from Euro car parts on a promotional deal at weekends. 40% off.  The piston tool was £20.00 In total i saved myself £167.00 

Which is rather pleasing.

Thank you for all the advice . It is all very much appreciated. 

Michael

Hi there Michael,

Thanks very much for updating on the rear disk and pad job. Just a few things I hope you can clarify for me,

1. Did you pump up the brakes after finishing both sides or just after finishing one then another?

2. Do you need 2 piston wind back tool, one for clockwise and one for anti-clockwise or can you use the same one?

Thanks very much in advance for your thoughtfulness and help. 
 

Misba. 

[Konrad C]

On 10/17/2020 at 7:01 AM, Misba said:

Hi there Michael,

Thanks very much for updating on the rear disk and pad job. Just a few things I hope you can clarify for me,

1. Did you pump up the brakes after finishing both sides or just after finishing one then another?

2. Do you need 2 piston wind back tool, one for clockwise and one for anti-clockwise or can you use the same one?

Thanks very much in advance for your thoughtfulness and help. 
 

Misba. 

Yes to both questions. If you look at my post, I have the tools and the rears are left and right hand thread. Like the front brakes with pistons, you should pump the brake pedal, then active the parking brake.

[Misba]

HI Konrad C,

Just want to thank you for your reply to my question, I got the wind back tool that you mentioned on your post and it worked a treat. Like you said very satisfying when you finish the job by yourself. But I would say your post helped me a great deal with the job, so thank you😀. 

Just wondering with the rear disk change the calliper bracket bolts are in a very tight place and its not like the front disks where you can turn the wheels right or left with the steering wheel to get access. So how do you manage to get the bolts loose, you won't be able to get a breaker bar in the rear wheel arch?

Thanks very much mate,

Misba.