Occasional Warm Start Problem..2.0 D4D ..1Cdftv Enginee

[Exvec]

This problem has only recently reared it's ugly head.

It happened a week a go after doing some shopping came back to the car after about 15 mins and the car failed to start as it normally does,it was a case of turning the starter over and blipping the the accelerator until after about 8 to 10 seconds after which it starts and this is after maybe 3 or 4 goes at trying to start it.

The same thing happened to day,but i will point out that i had done approx 20 odd miles before the difficult start so the car was in a warm state.

Glow plugs were replaced last winter so cant see it being that,its had a new Air and Fuel Filter at last service (June 14) the car has only covered 47,000 miles which is genuine.

I hasten to add that the car has a tuning box fitted(Synergy) from last July as of now there has been no trouble with it.

Can anyone suggest anything as to what might be the cause, by the way the car is showing the check Engine light but this has been on for a few months and the code is.. P2227..???Could this be the cause..

[avensisd4d786]

Could be this my friend.

http://users.telenet.be/robberecht/reserve/TSB_starterproblem_EG6005-TOY.pdf

some guy says he fixed his with WD40

http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=2575517

same scenario as yours

http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/Topic102720.aspx

[avensis rob]

yeah think I heard of this before

starter shorting internally when warm or something causing excess current and electrics going into failsafe mode not allowing fuel system electrics to work.

the p2227 should be unrelated and probably wouldn't be that noticeable when driving car.

aint this just the atmospheric pressure sensor to tell the ecu what the air density actually is

( differs hot to cold and at altitude)

to allow fine tuning of air to fuel ratio for emmisions /power output?

[Devon Aygo]

P2227 is a Barometric pressure sensor circuit range / performance fault and is a simple diagnostic procedure:

1. Delete fault

2. If fault returns are there any other DTC's?

2a. If yes diagnose and fix the other DTC then repeat from step 1

2b. If only P2227 is found after clearing DTC's replace the Engine control unit ( the barometric sensor is sealed inside the ECU and is not serviceable )

[Exvec]

Thanks for replies guys,first i think i will do is remove starter which isn't that difficult on these i think,try and open it up and maybe cast an eye over the brushes and commutator and clean if required and maybe swop out the brushes.

One thing i might try as well is to remove the tuning box and see what happens then.

?After this perhaps look into changing the Crankshaft Sensor as well..:D

[avensisd4d786]

I don't think the EML code is related to the starting issue,

I wouldn't drain the coolant, just do undo the two 10mm bolts holding the header tank and try and place it out the way.

STARTING & CHARGING.pdf

[avensisd4d786]

Just a thought, how old is your Battery, I would take it to Halfords for a free Battery test they will measure the CCA rather than just the voltage.

[Exvec]

Just a thought, how old is your battery, I would take it to halfords for a free battery test they will measure the CCA rather than just the voltage.

Not too sure how old the battery is but cold starts first thing in the morning are fine its the warm start ones that are cack don't suppose it would hurt to get it tested.:D

[avensisd4d786]

Just a thought, how old is your battery, I would take it to halfords for a free battery test they will measure the CCA rather than just the voltage.

Not too sure how old the battery is but cold starts first thing in the morning are fine its the warm start ones that are cack don't suppose it would hurt to get it tested. :D

Let us know how you get on.

[Exvec]

Just thought I'd update people on the forum in case anyone else has the same problem.

So i removed the starter motor not difficult really,just remove the Battery and the air intake box and the plastic tray which the Battery sits on this will give you some room to get to the 2 bolts which hold the starter in place.

The top part of the inter-cooler pipe needs removing,there's 2 bolts holding that coupled with two jubilee clips holding pipe at each end loosen these and remove.

I also removed a nut which is part of the bracket which is part of the clutch fluid /slave cylinder pipe.

You then have room to undo the 2 bolts for the starter i did this using a small extension bar on the ratchet,its a bit tight but you can just about reach them.

Also remove the top 2 bolts holding the expansion tank to the front slam panel ,tuck this out of the way and the starter can be pulled up to gain access to the starter terminals on the solenoid .

The plastic plug is a little tricky,you'll need a small screwdriver to push under a lug and gently prise it back and it will pull off.

I Took the starter to the bench and removed the two long torx bolts followed by the two small screws holding the cap onto the body,just pull it away carefully.

A good tip is to mark the body and the end cap with a felt pen so that on reassembly it goes back on in the same manner it came off.you can reverse the polarity if its turned a bit

I couldn't believe all the crap that was in there,so out came the carb cleaner and i gave it a liberal soak and wiped it all clean ,this revealed the state of the brushes which had worn down by about 3 to 4 mill comparing them to the new ones.The commutator was covered in a black film so out came the sandpaper and i cleaned that up till shiny again.

Now the tricky bit ,the positive brushes are soldered on to the main body so you need to cut the old brushes off, clean the area and then resolder the new ones back in place,a little daunting but can be done with a little patience.

On the gear part there's a round plate which covers the gears lever this off carefully and then smear a small amount of grease onto the top of the cogs,and push the plate back into its seating.

I then reassembled making sure i lined the marks up on the body and end cap,fitted every thing back into place.

Fitted back into car,and now the difference this has made is amazing ,just a quick turn of the key and it starts straight away where as before it would take a few turns to start it particularly when starting from hot.

So worth doing in my opinion,even if it isn't the sole problem.

[avensisd4d786]

Just thought I'd update people on the forum in case anyone else has the same problem.

So i removed the starter motor not difficult really,just remove the battery and the air intake box and the plastic tray which the battery sits on this will give you some room to get to the 2 bolts which hold the starter in place.

The top part of the inter-cooler pipe needs removing,there's 2 bolts holding that coupled with two jubilee clips holding pipe at each end loosen these and remove.

I also removed a nut which is part of the bracket which is part of the clutch fluid /slave cylinder pipe.

You then have room to undo the 2 bolts for the starter i did this using a small extension bar on the ratchet,its a bit tight but you can just about reach them.

Also remove the top 2 bolts holding the expansion tank to the front slam panel ,tuck this out of the way and the starter can be pulled up to gain access to the starter terminals on the solenoid .

The plastic plug is a little tricky,you'll need a small screwdriver to push under a lug and gently prise it back and it will pull off.

I Took the starter to the bench and removed the two long torx bolts followed by the two small screws holding the cap onto the body,just pull it away carefully.

A good tip is to mark the body and the end cap with a felt pen so that on reassembly it goes back on in the same manner it came off.you can reverse the polarity if its turned a bit

I couldn't believe all the crap that was in there,so out came the carb cleaner and i gave it a liberal soak and wiped it all clean ,this revealed the state of the brushes which had worn down by about 3 to 4 mill comparing them to the new ones.The commutator was covered in a black film so out came the sandpaper and i cleaned that up till shiny again.

Now the tricky bit ,the positive brushes are soldered on to the main body so you need to cut the old brushes off, clean the area and then resolder the new ones back in place,a little daunting but can be done with a little patience.

On the gear part there's a round plate which covers the gears lever this off carefully and then smear a small amount of grease onto the top of the cogs,and push the plate back into its seating.

I then reassembled making sure i lined the marks up on the body and end cap,fitted every thing back into place.

Fitted back into car,and now the difference this has made is amazing ,just a quick turn of the key and it starts straight away where as before it would take a few turns to start it particularly when starting from hot.

So worth doing in my opinion,even if it isn't the sole problem.

Good work and thanks for sharing, Can this be pinned or put as a guide.