Engine Support Beam

[oldcodger]

Wondered if anyone has used one of these engine support beams on a Corolla.

Seems their feet are fitted to the inner 'gulley' of the wing, but looking at the gulley there does not seem a lot of strength there.

Suppose they must work for some cars but just not sure about the rolla, would hate to crush the wings !

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Engine-support-double-beam-bar-stand-motor-500kg-traverse-lifter-gearbox-New-/191484773507?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c9561c483

[fastbob72]

Have never seen one of these before I take it the idea is you fit across the engine bay with the idea of supporting it from the chains.Presumeably to hold ot roughly in place so you can???

Certainly not lift it out, drop it out through the bottom..... certainly beats a trolley jack and a pair of scissors jacks which is an interesting way to go about it not one I'd recommend unless you're desperate.

As for how it sits on the wing or perhaps inner wing the fact the weights spread across the length of the bar and halved at each side it probably would be fine seated on the inner wing ot the wing channel as the base where the wing bolts on to is sturdier than it looks.

Still can't beat a strong supporting beam you can hook a block and tackle to although the best engine lift I've used was my mates JCB. We roped my Cortina engine to the bucket and hoiked it straight out and dropped one back in it's place.

The worst being my 1.6 Capri when me and a mate had a brainwave.Use the main steel section of the front bumper that was already off, one either side, bumper through the ropes and lifting it from the shoulder and out.... mmm, yes except as he lifted we bent the bumper into a fine V shape and resorted to both leaning in from either wing, grabbing a good hold and lifting out by hand :(

I'm pretty sure between the length of the bar and split between two feet per side it'll spread the weight by more than enough but if you are worried you could place sturdy wood blocks between the frame and car to sperad the weight over more area.

You'll. always find some cars that are. more awkward to use certain tool on. I suppose it depends how badly you need such a tool

[oldcodger]

Thinking about it as an engine support while the gearbox is out, though could also support under the sump as a last ditch thing.

Also thought it would be good for strapping the gearbox to , to avoid it dropping as it was eased away from the engine.

[fastbob72]

Thinking about it as an engine support while the gearbox is out, though could also support under the sump as a last ditch thing.

Also thought it would be good for strapping the gearbox to , to avoid it dropping as it was eased away from the engine.

Ok that does make some kind of sense but I'd want some kind.of way to. clamp. or. lock it in place rather than the weight of the engine and or gearbox holding it steady because i can imagine it. moving if you were to try moving them. while they were suspended.

I've always gone the out from under the car route removing engines and gearboxes from FWDs, not always ideal but less potential for disaster if you're on your own :)

[Mike169]

Hi.

I have used these type of beams many times in garages, normally used when changing a clutch where the gearbox forms part of the structure of holding the engine/ gearbox assembly in the engine bay and thus by wanting to remove the gearbox you have to support the engine in it's bay. It's just a device to hold the weight whilst you say change the clutch assembly whilst the gearbox is laying on the floor as most FWD assemblies come out of the bottom.

It would be hard to remove the engine and gearbox as a unit with one of these as the 'drop' of the unit is only say 30cm max, anymore than that you will need a jack and other lowering devices, as you correctly quoted the whole weight is on the gulley of the inner wings so you just have to be realistic what a cross beam is designed for.

Regards Mike.

[oldcodger]

Thanks for the replies.

Mike , thanks for the first hand info on them, and yes I only want it to take the weight of the engine during the gearbox removal to get at the clutch.

Would still have some extra support unde the engine just in case, but did not want to only support the engine from underneath with a jack and block in case something moved.

Have been looking at some of the ytubes about clutch changes, think this way looks like the way to go, if you can view it to the end you can see how he supports the engine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n88I15AOjLE

[Mike169]

Hi Oldcodger.

To be honest i think he made hard work of that as the engines and gearboxes are fitted as a unit from underneath and since your beam can only lift a very short height but can lower the engine down say 30cm and only usually necessary at the clutch end of the engine.

If you are doing a clutch change i'd approach the job in a different way to be honest, leaving the drivers side engine mount attached to start with and support the clutch end of the engine with the beam and attach the chains around the exhaust and or inlet manifolds or often there are lifting eyes already attached to the engine bolted to the engine via 2 nuts on usually the exhaust manifold or some people make up an 'eye' just an L shaped piece of metal and bolt it to something solid.

Once you have your beam attached you can go through the job of removing the gearbox, sometimes you have to remove the drive shafts and gear election bracket (Usually always the speedo fitting) and just drop the gearbox down enough to gain access to the clutch.

I know some people that totally remove the gearbox disconnecting everything and others that just split the engine and gearbox and just undo the clutch bolts one at a time turning the engine crankshaft pulley just a little each time until they have removed all 6 or 8 bolts and fiddle about this way. As just mentioned this way is a bit of messing about but you remove many less items so no need to say spill gearbox fluid all over the floor if you were to remove the driveshafts.....if you were to try the job with all the bits attached it's a bit more arm scratchy but a lot faster bolting it all up again.

It's job for job if you know what i mean, how much clearance you have when angling the gearbox down using your beam and yes a jack makes the job safer so as not to drop the gearbox.

Axle stands for the bodywork, under the sills is a must or you might get crushed.

Incidentally a guy that worked for me (I run the garage) could do a Ford Fiesta clutch in under 30 mins every time as he never completely removed the gearbox, he just split the engine/gearbox, twisted the gearbox a little, did the clutch change and reassembled, that way no need to worry about popping drive shafts out or gear change adjustment as he never took them off at all.

Good luck and let us/me know how it all goes.

Regards, Mike.

[oldcodger]

That link was more intended as tongue in cheek he makes it look so scary with his home made wooden hoist and all the prying with that long crowbar and as you say its not really intended to be removed upwards.

Really appreciate your comments about just splitting the gearbox rather than dropping it all togther, if it can be done on the corolla it would be a lot easier than having to remove all the lower cross members and driveshafts etc.

Yes, have two sets of Axle stands as no way would I go under with just a trolly jack ( never use all 4 axles stands front and back to raise the whole car, know thats too dangerous)

Will let you know how things go.

[roks]

Hi Oldcodger,

Please take notes/pictures/videos and share with us, I like the idea of spliting but I cant visualise it.

I dont need a clutch just yet but for future ref.

Thanks.