Corolla Diy Clutch Replacement

[roks]

OK, here's the deal, I call fitstart again, spoke to the "manager" they don't provide engine support or transmission stands as such but I can borrow them from their engineers. Also, if I want an air wrench, then there s one of charge of £10, that's £106 now.

On the picture above, so grease on the red arrow, right? Things like this the garage wont pay attention to and they wont torque it down either

Also, if I decide to do it on the roadside after visiting pitstart, I will buy the beam you used, does it slide across to move the gearbox out of the way or will I need to rest it on the jack and move it?

[oldcodger]

2 hours ago, roks said:

OK, here's the deal, I call fitstart again, spoke to the "manager" they don't provide engine support or transmission stands as such but I can borrow them from their engineers. Also, if I want an air wrench, then there s one of charge of £10, that's £106 now.

 

Hi,

After seeing their web site and the figures they are now giving you seems they are rather misleading folk,; it clearly says with Tools.

The only thing you might need an air wrench for is the hub nuts, all other bolts came off with a standard spanner or 1/2" socket set, though I did give them all a good spray of Plus Gas first (ECP)  - you would need to buy proper sockets rated for air tools ..?

Quote

On the picture above, so grease on the red arrow, right?

Depends  - as the text in that entry and the PDF from #1 entry say, its down to the inner ring the NEW thrust bearing uses, many like the LuK now use plastic and these are self lubricating and that part of the shaft with the red arrow should not be lubricated - as stated by LUK tech dept.

It you get a different make you will have to check.

Ironically I got Luk because talking to taxi drivers they say they alway have Luk or Sach clutches fitted as the are " the best".  However the local councils Mot tester did not sound too impressed with Luk clutches, but did  no say what he thought was best.. ?

The clutch cover is toqued down very lightly, though when I removed the one those clowns fitted for me, it took a good bit of pressure to crack them.

 

Quote

Also, if I decide to do it on the roadside after visiting pitstart, I will buy the beam you used, does it slide across to move the gearbox out of the way or will I need to rest it on the jack and move it?

Trending at about £38 on eBay,  the chain it comes with are quiet light and not long enough, so you need to get some longer ones to go right under the gearbox.

Would not like to use them on a corolla without those additional braces or similar, the wings just seem to light and have a fair slope on them.

I suppose (?) you could turn those hand levers to raise and lower the heavy gearbox, but I let the jack do that and take the weight, then take up the chain slack with the hand levers; saves risking stripping the thread of the hand lever nuts.

With the chain looped under the gearbox, there was  enough horizontal movement in the chain to swing the box in and out ok.

As in that Bodgit video, a strong guy can lift and fit the box back in by hand. !!    me not Tarzan !

[roks]

Thanks oldcodger, looks like I am defeated on this one... main reason for wanting to do this myself was for so that's its done properly and satisfaction. But I got persuaded by my brother who was going to help me, with all the time and effort put in, there's not much in saving. 

I've decided that I will take it to the garage for this one and go with the guy who quoted £355 as he says they only use LUK and I can stick around and watch the job get done.

I just hope he does a good job and doesn't damage seals etc and puts everything back together properly. The last thing I want is him saying this and that needs replacing to bump up the bill.

Will see how it goes.

Cheers.

[oldcodger]

5 hours ago, roks said:

Thanks oldcodger, looks like I am defeated on this one... main reason for wanting to do this myself was for so that's its done properly and satisfaction. But I got persuaded by my brother who was going to help me, with all the time and effort put in, there's not much in saving. 

I've decided that I will take it to the garage for this one and go with the guy who quoted £355 as he says they only use LUK and I can stick around and watch the job get done.

I just hope he does a good job and doesn't damage seals etc and puts everything back together properly. The last thing I want is him saying this and that needs replacing to bump up the bill.

Will see how it goes.

Cheers.

 

Think given your circumstanses its probably the better option,  thats why I initially went with a  local so called Clutch and Gearbox specialist company, just seemed too much of a big job for me.

Just unlucky I think,  as they did fit the proper parts, a blueprint cluch assembly, just that they put it in /greased it incorrectly, can only assume it was an apprentice that did it, though  from what I saw it was just two middle aged guys.

I sent pictures of the clutch parts to the Car Mechanics magazine gurus and its they who confirmed what they had done wrong, and equally diisapponted that such mechanics could make such basic errors.

Also ended up with a nasty rattle when going in to reverse, seems when jacking/moving the engine they managed to bend the exhaust shields on the engine and transmisson tunnel, though easily fixed with some pliers.

Could have gone back and got them to correct the clutch, but without knowing what I now know, it would have been diffiucult to argue the point as to the cause and liability; plus at the end of all that agro I would still never have been confident in what they had done.

Just fortunate I'm retired and had the time and a dry garage to do the job myself; still feels nice and low and light 15 months later.

What you can do, is take pics of your car before you take it into the garage; check things like your CV rubber covers are sound, no leaking dampers and no signs of leaking oil on the underside of the engine.

Cannot see how they could damaged any internal oil seals and they should take it for a test drive to ensure everything ok before handing it back to you.

When are you taking it in ?

 

[roks]

I don't think I need to do it straight away after doing some tests and talking to others.

When I went to Mr.T to get the airbag recall done, they said they did a complementary check and they found my clutch biting point is high and its starting to slip so I panicked a bit. But it is on the high side though.

I called Mr. Clutch (10miles from me), they quoted £295, exedy clutch, 2yrs or 20Kmiles warranty. Are Exedy a good quality?

Also, all those places offering free clutch check "with advanced diagnostic" while you wait. How do they do it, stick a camera in? Sure they don't take it apart.

[oldcodger]

Sounds like you are going to drive yourself stupid trying to convince yourself if the clutch needs replacing now or in a little while  - bottom line you will not be content until is done, so why dither/delay ..

Think that £295 is what they quoted me, last year.

Exedy clutches, remember reading on the web about them, but cannot remember what the general opinion was, so do a good search yourself of several sites/reviews

If a big dealer like them gives 2 years warranty on those clutches, surely they must be standing up to things or they would be loosing out doing loads of warranty work ?

Knew there was something else that those clowns did wrong ,but could not remember when doing the last reply.

If you look at the very bottom on the bellhousing , from the offside wheel side, where it joins the engine block you will see that the metal work does not match up evenly, there is a kind of recess, into which a little plastic cover is slotted in.  I had  never noticed it before, but after they did the clutch it was very obvious it was missing, had to buy the part from MrT, think it stops the muck getting in ,but allows anything to drain out ok ?  Again an item to check before and after the new clutch.

[roks]

8 hours ago, oldcodger said:

Sounds like you are going to drive yourself stupid trying to convince yourself if the clutch needs replacing now or in a little while

Spot on lol . One side of me sas car is 12 years old and other bits will start failin soon, partx it get another and other side says you got more important things to save for you cant spend on a car.

9 hours ago, oldcodger said:

a little plastic cover is slotted

I thought you were talking about the cover where the fork comes out of the bell housing but you are not, so I'll have a look to see if I can spot that.

I called another branch of Mr. Clutch, they quoted £299.99 and its going to be either a Valeo or a LUK clutch.

Oh man this is the first time I'm going to a garage...

[roks]

From your experience, how heavy is the gearbox/bellhousing?

And do you need a deep socket for the hub nut or will normal 30mm will do?

Thanks.

[oldcodger]

27 minutes ago, roks said:

From your experience, how heavy is the gearbox/bellhousing?

Hmmmmm... difficult one.

An oldie like me was able to move and lift it up from the floor and turn in around for cleaning etc, and could lift it on to the board I had placed on the trolley jack, however because the bellhousing side is so large but so light its a difficult load to raise above waist height, unless you are a lot stronger than the average man.

If you saw thay Bogdit video, he dropped the box out onto an old tyre, and when up on a lift,  he actually picked it up and slotted it in single handed, but could it be lifted and manouvered if you only had the car up on diy  ramps/jacks ..  doubt it.

Still thinking about diy ..?

[roks]

Yes...... I got the Valeo clutch kit from gsf, £52 after discount, its got the plastic inner ring as well.

Chap told me the Valeo OEM toyota use and they are good quality? (and some other stuff about toyota use french gear box?)

I made a platform to support/lower the gearbox, it screws on to the 2 ton hydrolic jack. I will strap the gearbox to the platform, and use the joint on the jack for moving side to side etc.

I've got couple of 30mm socket but not sure if they are deep enough, did you use a deep socket or standard? I'll have to take a wheel off and see if it fits and spray some wd40 while I am there.

 

[oldcodger]

20 minutes ago, roks said:

Yes...... I got the Valeo clutch kit from gsf, £52 after discount, its got the plastic inner ring as well.

Chap told me the Valeo OEM toyota use and they are good quality? (and some other stuff about toyota use french gear box?)

I made a platform to support/lower the gearbox, it screws on to the 2 ton hydrolic jack. I will strap the gearbox to the platform, and use the joint on the jack for moving side to side etc.

I've got couple of 30mm socket but not sure if they are deep enough, did you use a deep socket or standard? I'll have to take a wheel off and see if it fits and spray some wd40 while I am there.

 

I made a ply plate for the trolley jack , about 30cm square but you will find its a bit too big when trying to manouver under the suspension etc, think I ended up with something more like 150mm square just to push it up with the chain/bar holding it steady.

You should use a proper hub nut socket, not expensive and most places stock them, they are designed for the depth and strength needed for that torque, standard sockets may slip or worse shatter.

As said, you will need a solid wrench with a long extension, car in gear, handbrake on, wheels choked. Don't use a ratchet wrench, you will just wreck it.

 

[roks]

Thanks, I will get a hub nut socket from Halfords, I have a 1/2" breaker bar and a 5ft scaffold bar. will use your spare wheel trick.
 I plan to appiy wd40 several applications on the major bolts, break loose before lifting the car on stands.

I'll post pic of my tranny jack adaptor, I shaped in as the shape of the gearbox so it sits in the staggered V shape then wrap it round with a ratchet strap.

[mickburkesnr]

I'd sack off the idea of WD-40 and just use Plus Gas. I struggled with my alternator and Plus Gas was a God send in getting it off.

[roks]

I take it you are not referring to gas torch to heat it up?
 How does plus gas work?

[oldcodger]

4 hours ago, mickburkesnr said:

I'd sack off the idea of WD-40 and just use Plus Gas. I struggled with my alternator and Plus Gas was a God send in getting it off.

+1

 

[mickburkesnr]

4 hours ago, roks said:

I take it you are not referring to gas torch to heat it up?
 How does plus gas work?

No, I only had access to a heat gun which I set to maximum and it did work along with Plus Gas.

It's a spray, like WD-40, but it's meant to penetrate seized joints. It's very oily, greasy, doesn't evaporate as quickly as WD 40 does. In my case I used a lot of WD 40 and it wasn't working, it dripped off like water. Soon as I used Plus Gas it helped me get the alternator off. I bought mine from a motor factors for £5. I've most of it left, and it's the best £5 I spent. 

[roks]

Thanks guys, ordered one, should be here before the big weekend.....I'll be soaking all the nuts and bolts Friday evening.

[mickburkesnr]

8 hours ago, roks said:

Thanks guys, ordered one, should be here before the big weekend.....I'll be soaking all the nuts and bolts Friday evening.

If that doesn't work I read on an agriculture/farming forum that a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid works amazingly well with stiff nuts and bolts. But not to get it on any plastic as the acetone will disolve it! But I think that's an "if all else fails" scenario.

[oldcodger]

9 hours ago, roks said:

Thanks guys, ordered one, should be here before the big weekend.....I'll be soaking all the nuts and bolts Friday evening.

Yes, do give them a good spray, apart from the hub nuts, might not be good to spray them as it might affect the hub bearing grease etc.

Micks problems were due to previous bad works by other folk, but like my car, unless someone has done the clutch/gearbox before then think you will find all the bolts come out ok, provided you use a some good quality/proper fitting sockets and spanners.

As said before the only difficult ones were the clutch slave cylinder nuts, not tight but difficult access /angle to get at.

Also suggest as you unbolt each section you place the nuts and bolts etc  in separate labelled  bags (eg food bag), one of those little magnetic trays is very handy for holding the nuts and bolts in as you work.

Assume you are doing it this weekend, on the roadside ?

 

[roks]

Hi Oldcodger,

Thanks for the tips, I hope the hub nut doesnt give me grief, so I don't have to use plusgas.

Yes, its in front of my parents house, oneway road, not very busy, parking bays are perpendicular on one side, will have another car parked on the passenger side to provide cover and plenty room to manuver the jack.

What I've noticed recently is when I am reverse parking, I hear a metal clank, could that be the drop links/swaybar? Tried wiggling to see if its loose but it wont budge.

[oldcodger]

On 04/08/2016 at 10:03 AM, roks said:

 

What I've noticed recently is when I am reverse parking, I hear a metal clank, could that be the drop links/swaybar? Tried wiggling to see if its loose but it wont budge.

So many things, your description is a bit too general, could just be the brake pads with the reverse force?

Would get the clutch sorted first if thats what you are doing this weekend; you will have more than enough with that !

Don't forget to take some pics as you go along.

[roks]

Update: I managed to get the hub nut off with little effort from the 12v impact wrench, it was more difficult to in-stake the nuts. I even managed to take the front mount off no trouble. I was making good progress until it came to the axles, manage to take the passenger side out with some effort.

What I didn't expect to happen was the me knocking of the inner cv boot while trying to get the driver side axle and all the goo like melted milk chocolate came right out. the other bit is in the transmission. wasted the whole afternoon still wont come out, called it a day at 6pm. The boot doesn't look damaged, I think I wedged the pry bar against it and knocked it out. I am now thinking I would have been better off pulling the whole thing while it was intact.

When I spin the bit that's stuck in the transmission, make the same clicking noise I hear when I am driving round corners.

Feeling a bit beaten, will have another go tomorrow morning.

[oldcodger]

Oh dear, that sounds a real bummer ..

Sounds like the outer part of the drive shaft  / its snap ring or circlip  has come apart and torn the joint open ..?

Think you must have been levering against the wrong part of the joint for that to happen or it was already shot ?

Think the joints should be filled with moly grease or similar, if it looks like milk chocolate  think it suggests water and / or oil has got in there.

A clicking on full lock is said to be signs of a worn  cv joint, never had to replace the actual joint, but stripped then down to renew a few rubber boots on old Vauxhalls.

Attached is  a section on the driveshafts that may help / clarify things; it also shows a type of slide hammer being used to extract it.

The levering was my concern, more that you had to lever again the engine/gearbox blocks. Think the secret of those snap rings is a sudden sharp knock rather than just progressive pressure, which is what that slide hammer does.

Seems the most places stock the outer cv joint , but the inners a bit harder to find, eBay have some around £50 though not a clue what Mr Ts prices are.

Let us know how you get on...

30 - Drive Shafts.zip

[roks]

2 hours ago, oldcodger said:

Think you must have been levering against the wrong part of the joint for that to happen or it was already shot ?

I levered on the think part of the boot, knocked the boot over the grooves. It appear not damaged, just the clip/ring thing slipped off its tooth. I think I can pack it up with fresh grease and may have to buy the locking ring.

What type of grease do you use, guy on youtube shows the pack with general purpose grease, Halfords sell one for CV but it say Moly as well on the tin, can I use Moly2 grease I have? 

The clicking is there with the outer Shell, so I am thinking inside/drive shaft spline. I have some longer chisel that I will try tomorrow to get that bit off.

Is the grease supposed to be that runny? First I though it was gearbox oil.

[oldcodger]

Cannot see any specific reference to the type of grease used on the Corollas CV joints; the older cars I have worked on came as kits with a sachet off moly type grease.

You are using a chisel ?!  - you need something bigger and stronger like a pry/wrecking bar and as the Haynes manual says/shows, once the bar is in place  it needs a sharp tap to jump the snap ring; though be careful what you lever against.