Corolla Diy Clutch Replacement

[mickburkesnr]

I remember the old man's CV joint had gone on his Rover 820 years and years ago, and his mate was fixing it for him. The fitter said he could change the CV Boot and pack it with grease which would protect the joint from any more damage, or he could replace the whole thing. Packing it back with grease wouldn't stop the sound of it knocking but it wouldn't damage it any more. So maybe try that? But you need to find out why or where water had got in to that CV boot in the first place.

[roks]

Update: day 2, casualties so far, one sore thumb, one lost rear mount nut inside the chassis, one cv slipped and the clutch is in.

it took some back muscle to wiggle the box back in, then suddenly it clicked in but would not go in flat but all in the dowel, then manage to put the screws in.

I'll have to order couple of snap rings for the driveshaft, they look a but odd shaped, not C shape. I am thinking they may be damaged or are they supposed to be like that?

I just need to pack the CV joint with the right type of grease and finish the rewiring. The moly 2 grease I have grey, will check Halfords.

11 hours ago, mickburkesnr said:

But you need to find out why or where water had got in to that CV boot in the first place.

Not sure if its water, the straps seem tight, I don't know;;;;;

[oldcodger]

Well done, sounds like you have it almost sorted.

Do not know what the shape of the snap ring is, never had one off the shaft, though good practice to replace if in any doubt.

While you will probably have to go to your toyota dealer for them, expect they will have sachets of CV grease or will tell you what type of grease should be used  - you are not replacing that joint though .. thought you said it was  clicking ?

[roks]

Now I am think, how long will it last with the current ones....would rebuilding these cv joints work or is that not possible? There are kits available to replace the outer joint, is that worth it?

I had a look around, for whole driveshaft, they are quite expensive, approx. £200 per side from ecp.

what the good after market ones?

[oldcodger]

This Ytube shows some interesting detail of the inner cv joint and how to test / check for wear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7lTncDBfkE

On the ECP site for my 2006 model they show two cv joints, assume the first one is the inner joint, though it does not clearly state that just a tech drawing, not really showing the rubber boot etc. product code  65782303J

It also shows complete driveshafts- but on the Fitment Details, it states they are for non ABS cars , assume that means the abs ring is not there .. Whats yours  ABS or no ABS.

Do you need to replace the outer ?  if both needed a complete shaft easier ...?

As always, first check what prices Mr T has for the joint kits and complete shafts.

 

[roks]

Mines ABS, I get the same options on ecp. I am going to put all back together except the driveshaft. 

I had a look at the video, I am 100% I've not had these vibrations, I will try his test on the intact inner joint, obviously I cant test the other as its got no grease inside.

But the clicking noise is there on left and right turns, so I will need 2 outer cv joints. I will check Mr.T but I doubt it will be affordable.

Now, there are various cv joint kits, which one do you buy? They range from £25 to £100 each. I found these on Amazon, I have prime someday delivery so I can get it tonight but I think its just the boot and joint. I can get grease and straps separately.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DZODKNM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

I've lost the rear mount nut, its been bothering me, the impact gun flung it inside the hollow frame, it will probably rattle when I hit the bumps.

 

Cheers Oldcodger.

 

[roks]

Update: All back in, except the driveshafts, man the clutch feels so much lighter I am chuffed.

I just need to soft out the cv joint but finding the right one is difficult. With my reg there is 2 variation, 23 tooth and 24 tooth internal, the only way I is cut out the old and find out.

[oldcodger]

Glad to hear the clutch is good and light, assume you have not  run the engine without any oil in  the gearbox !

Do not know what the 23 or 24 Tooth thing is but think this info from Micks Garage might help, think your Chassis no. will start SB1 like mine. 

Thought it was the offside inner joint that was clicking, or did I misunderstand your earlier comment ? you say you are now replacing both outers.

Have you been able to rebuild the inner joint ?

That Amazon joint, £12 ??  - something not right there - you would think its just the rubber cover, but the pic shows the whole joint and the specs list its weight as over 2kg.  

 

[roks]

No, I did not start the engine, stuck a piece of paper 'no gear oil', I hope its ok I changed gears couple of time.

My chassis is JT, I had to give mg a part number I obtained from toyodiy.com, its the ADT38951B. I have part numbers on the driveshaft that don't seem to bring any results in google. Will ask mr.T, about the part number, think that may be for the whole shaft and by the way they wanted £380 for each joint.

I tried to order the Amazon one but something is not right, it would not give a delivery date, too good to be true I guess.

 

 

[roks]

Update:

Started the engine and got the shock of my life, metal banging noise and heavy vibration, panicked and twisted the key again and engine stalled. Then tried to start again, and it wont start, just rubbing noise as if the belt was slipping. Tested the Battery, it was half charged, I use the 12v impact wrench before, that's drained the Battery.

After waiting a while, tried again, same thing wont start, then just held the key, and eventually started again, more banging noise panicked again. Eventually started and left it running, after a while the noise went away and engine sound back to normal.

Drove home 25 miles, no issues, some local traffic and the rest 40-60mph. Pedals are nice and light, seems to pull better (or is it psychological) with the car full. 

Why did the engine make this banging noise? I am guessing because car was parked for nearly 2 weeks, the oil drained to the bottom of the pan?

 

 

 

[oldcodger]

Think if the engine oil was slow to move around you would hear a more "tappet" sounds as the valves/camshafts were running dry.

It might be the exhaust heat shield catching on each other, a problem that garage gave me, most obvious at start up when the engine is not running smoothly , so making it prone to a lot of movement on its mountings and  bringing the heat shield together.

You want to chekc around the engine bay to make sure everything is where it should be, no spanners left in etc ??

[roks]

Will see how it starts today, its been in the drive way since last night, take a look at the shields as well.

I noticed the clutch padel goes all the way to the floor now, is that normal?

[oldcodger]

1 hour ago, roks said:

 

I noticed the clutch padel goes all the way to the floor now, is that normal?

Yes, the new clutch, longer travel, lighter pressure needed.

You will have to 're-learn' your left foot, otherwise you will be crunching the gears because you are not pressing down far enough.

[roks]

Thanks Oldcodger, I am re-learning, stalled several times when pulling away at the lights.

I went ouside, gave it a start, its all normal now, there is bit of hissing noise and as the engine warmed up, it was less noticeable, will take a proper look later.

The heat shields look ok, and theres nothing left in the engine bay, I guess it was the combination of flat Battery and that knocking noise scared me.

[Alexabeyance]

Hey everyone,  

I have a 2014 corolla hatchback, zre182. Bought it secondhand.  Previously it was a company car. And owning the car for 5 months the cars clutch gave up after clocking  93k kms. Following this forum and some youtube videos replaced my own clutch. Everything wasn't so merry. Lol. Used the alingment tool for clutch alingment. Bled the clutch as per normal. 

The problem I am facing is that my gear stick isn't bugging at all!!!! What might be the problem?? 

Any help will be appreciated.  Thanks

[oldcodger]

Hi,

Think even if the clutch was all wrong and the gearbox input shart jammed, you should still be able to move the gear stick.

Have you tried disconnecting the gear cable linkage at the gearbox again and see if you can then move the gear stick.

If it does, can you feel some movement in the gearbox control arm that was attached to the cables, seem to remember you can move it by hand to some degree.

How does the clutch pedal feel, nice and light ?

[Alexabeyance]

 

Hi oldcodger, 

Thanks for the prompt response. 

The clutch feels nice and light. It it definitely aligned. The gear stick does moves forward and backward.  Goes into gear but very harshly. ( I think 3rd and 4th) but  Wont move sideways. As per your suggestion i will undo the gear linkages and try moving the stuck. 

 

I got a friend of mine to come and have a look. He said there is a slight chance i might have got my input shaft jammed.

Both the shift cables try to move but one of two the transaxle (where the shift cables attach outside gearboox) doesnt  move.

[roks]

Maybe an obvious questions but did you fill the gearbox with correct oil?

[Alexabeyance]

Yes i did 🙂