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Avensis 2004 D4D Heavy Clutch Goes Lighter With Warm Blower On


avensisd4d786
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the clutch system is hydraulic.

if I place the blower on the feet setting, the clutch pedal goes lighter, what would make it do this.

is it a case of replacing the rubber bushings? does the master cylinder push rod need greasing?

I already replaced the master & slave cylinder in this car (genuine) and dmf and clutch kit.

311106A.png

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anyone?

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Other than the blowers warming up some thick grease or expanding a bush I'm not sure why the blowers would affect the pedal force.

One common cause of a stiff pedal on the 1CD Avensis is the clutch release fork lacking grease, this however requires the box out and the fork removed, cleaned, greased and refitted.

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Other than the blowers warming up some thick grease or expanding a bush I'm not sure why the blowers would affect the pedal force.

One common cause of a stiff pedal on the 1CD Avensis is the clutch release fork lacking grease, this however requires the box out and the fork removed, cleaned, greased and refitted.

around the bulkhead is a rubber bush, the piston runs through this.

Get some decent grease clean the old stuff off and regrease.

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311101A.png

311106A.png

Hi, cmia, I am unsure of where you mean, can you please point out where you mean please

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Other than the blowers warming up some thick grease or expanding a bush I'm not sure why the blowers would affect the pedal force.

One common cause of a stiff pedal on the 1CD Avensis is the clutch release fork lacking grease, this however requires the box out and the fork removed, cleaned, greased and refitted.

I have already done the greasing but thanks for the advice.

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What an unusual thread.

Best advise i can offer is remove and internal mats that come out easily, put an old towel in the footwell and soak all the linkage area behind the dashboard with WD40 working the pedal from time to time whilst you are doing it.

Of course your car will smell a bit for a while but it seems somewhere needs some lubricant and it's just a case of soaking everything with fingers crossed. If possible let it 'drip dry' overnight.

Good luck, Mike.

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What an unusual thread.

Best advise i can offer is remove and internal mats that come out easily, put an old towel in the footwell and soak all the linkage area behind the dashboard with WD40 working the pedal from time to time whilst you are doing it.

Of course your car will smell a bit for a while but it seems somewhere needs some lubricant and it's just a case of soaking everything with fingers crossed. If possible let it 'drip dry' overnight.

Good luck, Mike.

this sounds tempting although I want to grease this bush first

'around the bulkhead is a rubber bush, the piston runs through this.'

do you know which one cmia could be referring too from the diagrams.

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Bushes (X 2) 31301C and the bolt that goes through them 90109-10167 would be the first thing i would aim for, probably with the plastic straw that comes with the WD40 to try and get the lubricant in even slackening the nut 90197-10088 a little just to see if you can get some sideways movement on the bolt with the help of a small hammerto see if it alters the stiffness of the pedal.

Regards Mike.

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I think he's referring to the rubber boot at the back of the master cylinder as I have arrowed in the pic. For a better view see pic 2.

post-140480-0-00438200-1433257530_thumb.

post-140480-0-18676500-1433257564_thumb.

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I think he's referring to the rubber boot at the back of the master cylinder as I have arrowed in the pic. For a better view see pic 2.

Hi Tom.

I take your point very much but on the top of this thread it states he has changed the cylinders with genuine parts so i am assuming they would be in good working order from new and i would assume Toyota would of used some sort of lubricant on the push rods during assembly. What we need to know is was the cluch pedal heavy prior to a new clutch and cylinders being fitted and was the DMF clutch a genuine one and fitted by whom?

Regards Mike.

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Yes mike it was painfully heavier prior to the clutch fitted it was a luk kit genuine toyota one had luk stamped too.

if someone willing to have a look near me I am willing to take it to them.

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Mike

I was replying to Post #8 where the OP asked whether anyone knew which bush cmia was referring to. I certainly did not mean a correction to your post.

Tom

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In this situation i think i would be tempted to take it to a Main Toyota dealer for a a diagnosis, it might cost a few quid but i think it could be money well spent. I have a nasty suspicion the DMF clutch has been incorrectly fitted as i have read a similar post before so really the car needs to go back to who fitted the clutch to put their possible fault straight but at least giving them the chance to give their opinion. Assuming it wasn't a main dealer that fitted the genuine clutch i think it might have to come out again and of course at great expense so you have to give them, the guys that fitted the clutch, the chance to put it right before you go elsewhere and get an assurance from them for financial reimbersement.

Hard to diagnose online but this is my opinion.

Regards Mike.

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Thank you for your opinion, but I do not think the dmf or clutch kit is fitted incorrectly, flywheel can only go on one way, the pressure plate can only go on one way. there is a possibility of the clutch plate going on wrong but it did have a marking to which way to put on, the car has plenty of power and clutch does not slip or judder.

if its on the box side, its either the fork that is slightly bent or the pressure plate.

last resort is the dealer- its strange that heat makes it go lighter.

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just to add to this, it has a annoying squeak when the pedal is depressed. it has always been there.

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I think he's referring to the rubber boot at the back of the master cylinder as I have arrowed in the pic. For a better view see pic 2.

correct :)

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I think he's referring to the rubber boot at the back of the master cylinder as I have arrowed in the pic. For a better view see pic 2.

correct :)

I take your point guys but it is brand spanking new which i presume would of been lubricated by the manufacturer, and OE parts i believe so i am still tempted to think it's the pivot bushes as mentioned earlier hence why i think using a can of WD40 and an old towel to catch the drips and left overnight may be the best way to go.....of course the rubber you mention will get a squirt as well.

Regards Mike.

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UPDATE;

I sprayed silicone grease around the clevis bush/pin area and around the rubber boot near firewall and cleaned the grease on the pushrod (not sure if this grease should of been there)

its better, squeak has gone too. not sure how long its going to last.

is it worth changing the pedal turn over bush and the pedal bushes.

the clutch master cylinder clevis bush has been changed.

Thank you to everyone who helped

post-125194-0-87893500-1433842133_thumb.

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Bushes (X 2) 31301C and the bolt that goes through them 90109-10167 would be the first thing i would aim for, probably with the plastic straw that comes with the WD40 to try and get the lubricant in even slackening the nut 90197-10088 a little just to see if you can get some sideways movement on the bolt with the help of a small hammerto see if it alters the stiffness of the pedal.

Regards Mike.

what you suggested is too high up to aim for, space is very tight there.

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  • 6 years later...

Can someone show me how the Turn Over Spring is fit, i just found it loose on the car and my clutch is not smooth, it kicks out and sometimes the engine would go off due to rough take off coursed by the clutch paddel

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