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Not Starting When Hot


lawlor2401
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Hi all. There’s loads of posts here about the same problem but no one has said what actually fixes the fault? Has anyone Actualy fixed the bad start from warm???

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Hi

I sorted this on mine and the car has worked faultlessly since and I suspect all you need to do is clean the earth leads/connecting bolts. It may seem trivial but from my experience it's the solution. Just be very thorough getting back to bare metal and removing all oxidation so both leads are getting a good contact -ve Battery <-> chassis and chassis <-> engine. 30mins work and free!

 

If the above doesn't fix the problem you could try the following:

1) Replace the Battery (only do this if the current Battery is quite old)

2) Replace the starter motor - you could even up rate with 2.2kw version but shouldn't be necessary as the car has worked fine for 15+ years with the smaller one fitted in the factory

3) Heat shield the starter motor - probably unnecessary but if you've done everything else what have you got to lose?

 

Please post back with how you get on for the benefit of others.

 

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  • 3 months later...

Hi, I also have this dreaded problem.

I'm going to give the earth and connections a real good clean.... But I'm not sure what I'm doing. Is it just a case of using a wire brush? And do you apply anything to the connections  to protect them?

Thanks

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It could it be injectors leaking when turning engine off

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Hi Lynsey

Cleaning the cables is easy, although you need to remove the airbox (so you need a screwdriver and sockets). But if you have those it's a 30min job.

I would suggest using emery paper rather than a brush as I think it's easier and you get a better clean. Just get the surfaces as clean as you can and make sure you do both cables (hence the need to remove the airbox)

You don't need to put anything back on the terminals you've cleaned, although you can buy Battery paste that is often used on the terminals of batteries. I bought some after I cleaned my terminals but never got round to putting it one, that was about two years ago and I've had no problems so you can save a fiver...

If you're unsure or need more help just ask

 

 

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If it's the diesel RAV with the 1CD-FTV engine, there is a known problem with that engine not starting when hot due to a fault in the starter motor; The 'fix' is to replace it with an updated part, although in the past some owners here just opened them and refurbished them (I assume by replacing the brushes) and that seemed to fix it for them.

I still have the TSB somewhere...

http://cyker.net/Public/CarStuff/TSB_starterproblem_EG6005-TOY.pdf

It's for the Avensis and Corolla Verso, but we've seen it several vehicles with the 1CD-FTV (I originally found the TSB here while researching because my bro's non-Verso Corolla also had the same problem - He thought it was the Battery and replaced it only for the problem to crop up again a few months later, but changing the starter motor fixed it, even with a half-dead Battery!)

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I changed the Battery (unfortunately it's a 630amp) and have tested this recently, the output is spot on. I also changed the starter motor a few weeks back (1.4kw as I didn't find out about the 2.2kw until after), if I'm honest it sounds weaker and quieter to start,. Still has the hot start issue, I was wondering about changing the ect. The engine never overheats and always runs at perfect temp, but when it doesnt start as soon as the temp gauge drops a tiny bit it would start back up again. Last night the temp had dropped alot but still didn't start. Going to try the connections and hope that helps.

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When I had the problem, just like you I did the Battery (oversized it), starter motor(2.2kw although unnecessary - else they wouldn't supply them with 1.6kw starters) and wrapped the starter... each time I did something the problem seemed to get slightly better and then got worse (to the point it wouldn't sometimes even start on a hot summer day). Then lastly I did the (free) earth cable cleaning.... and it's been faultless since, so given what you've said I optimistic for you!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Unfortunately this didn't solve the problem. I did both cables and got them back shiney again. Would rusty bolts make a difference? But I'm guessing as long as the connection to the Battery and chassis are clean then it shouldn't? I've heard that the coolant sensor could be the culprit.... But I can't find where to locate it or even if the diesel has it?

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Very sorry to hear this hasn't worked. When I had this problem I never did anything with coolant sensors but that isn't to say it's not a possibility given everything you've done.

I know you've given the cables a go but I believe this problem is a power issue, hence why it sounds like a weary flat Battery even though you know it's good (to be honest that's why coolant sensors seems a long shot to me).

If I may suggest, consider replacing the earth cables, maybe even buy a longer one to go directly from the chassis to the Battery.... it's not expensive and will help rule that angle out.

Another test you could try is connecting a jump lead between the negative on the Battery and the starter motor/engine block... it's fiddly and can't be left like that when using the car however, when it's acting up and won't start this test may help rule the negative side of the circuit out.

I'd also suggest cleaning the positive terminals at the battery and on the connector going into the starter, as both need to be good to make a good connection.

If none of that gives a clue/helps then come back and I'm sure folk on here will give more suggestions.

Good luck!

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Thank you, I'll give that a go and report back. Fingers crossed

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am dealing with this problem. Thorough cleaning of the earth connections and particularly the starter motor connection which is best done removing the starter motor has improved things. Before it turned over reluctantly when hot. Now it turns over very quickly when hot. But it still is indifferent on hot starts but needs only 3 mins rest.  Checked the scv electrically operating sweetly . ( Usb 5v  cable). Had injectors out and cleaned up. 2 were leaking. New washers on all. Runs beautifully . When Battery is disconnected the ECU needs a long drive to adjust trim to injectors, especially after servicing injectors. Going to motorway speeds to see if it helps soon. I had a polo petrol engine that when warm, the timing chain would stretch enough to throw out the cam and crankshaft sensors. Hope it's nothing like that. Somehow I think the ECU is not telling the injectors to squirt at the right time. But then it can't be that as it runs perfectly when going. Anyway work in progress.

 

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There are two "known" issues for non start when hot on the 1CD diesel

1. The well known hot starter 

2. Injector leak ( dripping into bore ) to confirm this you will need your injectors testing ( try a local diesel injector specialist, even better if they handle Denso ) when tested with fuel pressure but without power the injectors should hold tight and not pass any fuel, when faulty they will drip fuel constantly until the fuel pressure, this prevents hot starting 

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Regarding injector leak my observation is that the engine won't restart instantly on stalling or turning the key off ,then on again within a second or two. Surely not enough time for a leak (not to be confused with oil leak from faulty washers into the piston chamber) to create this issue. Anyway today I drove the bad boy up and down the motorway and trialled stop start once off the motorway and the car hasn't failed, so in my particular case earth points and clean up injectors and the ECU adapting to road driving seems to be paying off . However I will continue to investigate.

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