Finally A Fix For D4d (2000 To 2005) Engine Power And Starting Problem

[ajstars]

I am posting this here rather than to bury it in other posts as hopefully it will save you, your money and your engine. These are the common fixes for 1CD-FTV D4D (diesel) poor starting, power loss and hesitation.

Poor starting especially after a run, sounds like it wants to but won't or starts and stalls:

loose fuel filter, Injector seals leaking.

Power loss or hesitation with or without fault codes and limp mode:

Turbo vanes sticking, SCV valves, Injector seals leaking.

How to check and repair:

It can be SCV valves at £200 to £300 a pop, or it can be the turbo vanes sticking. Finally if it's neither of those, if it's a D4D then your injector seals may be leaking. If it's the latter, if not caught in time will cause carbon deposits to block your engine oil pick up and starve the engine of oil. I found out the hard way.

One symptom of the injector problem is poor starting or no starting after a run.

The injector seals are quick and easy to replace. Toyota has modified the crush washers but never did a recall.

You will need 4x crush washers and 4x o-rings. Be careful of the plastic injector electrical connection as they can break quite easily. If an injector is hard to remove, that is the one that's leaking!

I would start diagnosis with a check of the operation of the turbo vanes (see below), then SCV valves, finally injectors. However, I would get the injector seals changed as a matter of course.

Also check your fuel filter is tight, although this normally results in poor starting and stalling.

To check and fix the turbo vanes:

D4D (2002) Turbo removal and vane cleaning.

Check the vane operation by removing the two 8mm bolts holding the UFO to the top of the turbo. The actuator linkage should move fully up and down smoothly and with no resistance or stickiness. You can check the UFO by sucking on the small pipe, it should operate the linkage smoothly.

The fix, 8hr job, experienced home mechanic with lots of tools!

Put front end of vehicle on ramps.

Remove intercooler, pipe to turbo, air cleaner box and pipes. (12mm sockets)

Remove top and rear heat shields (12 mm sockets and scanners) the rear heat shield has a bolt accessible from underneath the vehicle.

Remove the bracket holding the cat converter (to left of turbo) to the engine (3x 14mm bolts) and the clamp holding the pipe to the bracket (8mm spanner/cross Head screwdriver).

Remove the 3x12 mm nuts holding the cat to the turbo (one more accessible from below or use a stubby spanner)

Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the bottom of the cat to the lower bracket using long extension from underneath.

Undo but do not remove the oil feed pipe from the bottom of the turbo using 10mm socket (2x10mm nuts).

Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the bottom of the turbo to the lower bracket. These are tight, I linked two spanners to get leverage but a socket would work too. Be careful not to round the bolt heads.

From above, remove the bolt holding the EGR tube to the bracket and carefully lever the tube towards the engine to obtain enough room to get a socket down onto the final 14mm nut holding the turbo to the bracket. Again be careful not to round the nut as it is tight.

Now remove the two rubber coolant pipes from the turbo, you will loose only a small amount of fluid.

Pull the cat away from the turbo and carefully work the turbo up and out.

Do not loose the metal gaskets between oil pipes and turbo and cat and turbo.

With turbo on the bench, undo the five 10mm bolts around the air intake housing (part that looks like a snail) and separate the two parts. Do not loose the large o-ring, remove this and clean any corrosion off the faces before carefully retrofitting in the same orientation.

If it helps, remove the UFO undoing the 10mm nut on the linkage.

Remove the coolant pipes using a 10mm socket on the two nuts. Do not loose the metal gasket.

Now undo the five rusted 10mm bolts holding the turbo together, being careful not to round them as they too are tight. This will allow the turbo to separate with a gentle tap around the edge.

You will now have access to the linkage, ring gear, rollers and pins that operate the vanes. Carefully remove all parts (do not loose the rollers and pins!) and clean with brake cleaner/carb cleaner, brass wire brush etc.

Using a star bit, remove the three (tight) bolts holding the vane unit to the turbo being careful to retrieve the three brass spacers underneath.

Lift out the vane unit and thoroughly clean the vanes and all mating surfaces. Scraping off any carbon etc using a flat blade.

Using very fine 300 grade emery paper smooth all mating surfaces if necessary.

Refit as per removal being careful to correctly locate the vane actuator and roll pin in the housing to the corresponding hole in the turbo housing.

Your vane actuator linkage should now operate freely with no sticking.

If removed, refit UFO setting the linkage to avoid putting excess pressure on the UFO diaphrapm. Neutral position on the diaphragm should be lowest position on the vane linkage.

Refit to vehicle as per removal being careful to locate all the metal gaskets correctly and trying not to drop the inaccessible nuts too many times!

Good luck.