Iffy 1.8 1999

[mcc100743]

Hello

I posted recently regarding an Avensis 1.8 I had bought with an intermittent cutting out fault. So to start many thanks to those who answered my query.

As I have been using the car (intermittently!) I have discovered other issues these are:

• A kind of misfire at over 4000 revs
• Tick over all over the place (sometimes low, sometimes high)
• A fuel gauge that seems to work when the weather is warm and not when its cool (I had to wait for a warm day to find out!)

I have got a new fuel pump and sender (yet to fit)

And an ECU is on the way.

I have fixed the clip for the valve timing malarkey that had come detached

My theory is one of the following:

• ECU has a dry joint or some kind of defect somewhere hence all the faults
• The fuel pump is performing under par and cuts out altogether sometimes and the sender is suffering the same issue
• Or the fuel injection system is knackered
• Earthing?

I think a damn good clean of the fuel tank and a good blast with redex for about 100 miles would help (it seemed the previous owner just pootled around Bristol)

The car was an absolute bargain and drives great apart from the faults. It is too good to scrap..

Any other suggestions advice would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance.

MCC

[rcdean]

Not sure on most of those problems you've listed.

But the fuel gauge could be sticking.

The spindle catches on the plastic frame that the dials stick to. If you take the cluster out take off the front cover then pull the fuel needle off and take a look down.

You should be able to see if the spindle is catching. If it does just heat up a needle or something and melt away abit of the plastic around

[Konrad C]

Hi Mick,

I think you doing the right thing so far. The fuel injection system does not get knackered, but from what you said about the previous use, it needs a clean out. Additives and some spirited but safe driving (Italian tuning) will help blow out the build up of muck. You already have that planned anyway.

The fuel filter can be changed. Beware, the nuts to the piping can be hard to undo!

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/1999/avensis/at221r-almekw/3_273540_026_/tool-engine-fuel/2211_fuel-injection-system/1

Just in case I have not mentioned it before, genuine Denso SK20R-P13 Iridium spark plugs need to changed every 5 years or 60,000 miles. The HT leads should be genuine, because I find 3rd party leads don't always work as well. They don't connect tightly with the spark plugs and cause misfiring.

The lean-burn (O2) sensor can play havoc with the running of the engine. Sometimes the EML may come on intemittently. I had this on mine and the car was sluggish. Did the self diagnostic using the jumper pin method and obtained the codes. Also my car struggled on emissions until the sensor was changed.

With the ECU changed any more issues then look at the sensors - leanburn, cam and crank, plus connections.

The cam belt and possibly the tensioner may be due for change. The good thing is that the belt is not stressed, compared in other instillations. If by chance it does break, just fit a new belt! The engine is non-interference.

Has the car got any history?

Read my posts for any other info.

Konrad

[Konrad C]

Can I suggest if you have not got one, to get the Haynes manual.

It is not perfect but covers a lot. Any other info can be obtained from here.

[mcc100743]

Haynes Manual on its way, again many thanks for the responses gents this is a very good forum.

I shall take all on board and give a mighty roar of triumph when the car is sorted...until then its howls of anguish every time it decides to conk out!

[mcc100743]

The car has service history up to 2006, but I noticed the Lambda sensor was changed for the MOT last month so there has been an issue for a while.

[Konrad C]

When you have time, locate the diagnostic socket behind the little storage, near your right knee. This where one of two fuse boxes are located. Have a piece of wire like a paper clip or earth core cable. remove the storage box and look at the fuses, then above and you see a 16 pin diagnostic socket. Link the 4th pin on the upper row and the 5th pin on the lower row.

Turn the key to IGN but don't start the engine. The EML, SRS and ABS warning indicators should flash. When everything is working, the flashing will be constant. If there has been a problem, the indicaor will flash two sets of sequence, with a short space between them, then repeat. If there is more than one fault it will flash the next sequences. For example 2 flashes pause then 1 means code 21 - O2 sensor fault.

Your car is not OBD2 compliant so you can't just buy diagnostic fault readers, as they are not compatible. The self diagnostic method is a cheap and easy way to find out what is going on.

[mcc100743]

Hello all.

Just an update re the problem, I removed the ECU cleaned the connectors, stuffed it back in, didn't put the glove box back and started using the car for work. Well its about 200 miles on and it hasn't let me down since. So fingers crossed its OK, I have a spare fuel pump and sender and a spare ECU so I may just hang onto them or stuff em back on eBay when I feel like it, unless anyone here wants them.

The car was falling over about every 10 miles'ish so I am hoping the issue ifs fixed.

I am now starting to really like its easy going manners, its not fast or out of the ordinary but has plenty of torque and is comfortable and I can get my drum kit and PA in there so it's a win, and all for £350 with 1 years MOT!!

Again many thanks to all who offered help but particularly to Konrad who was very helpful.