Clutch Adjustment

[Catlover]

Question. My 59 plate 1.4D Yaris, 6 speed manual box, 54k miles - will it have a clutch that can be adjusted manually or will it be automatic.

Reason I ask - to start the car I have to push the clutch pedal down as far as it will go before it will start. Also noticed engaging 1st gear when stationary can be a bit of a struggle sometimes.

Just wondering does the clutch need an adjustment, and if so is it manual or automatic adjustment, or is something else going on?

[Neil robertsin]

All yaris have hydraulic clutches which cannot be adjusted, my(2013)model has as safety switch so you cannot start the engine without depressing the clutch and I assume yours is the same.If the problem remains the same hot or cold it suggests a clutch fault if it improves when warm a syncomesh fault.

[Catlover]

Hi Neil, yes the clutch same as yours, have to depress the pedal right down before stater motor engages. I was just highlighting I have to press it right down, all the way down, I dont know whether this is the same with a less mileage car or whether it says the clutch needs attention (and if so what)

No difference between cold or hot engine.

[MikeSh]

If the interlock is a switch on the pedal then that might be loose, need adjusting or possibly a bit has come off the plunger so the pedal has to go further before operating it.

[MEP's Yaris GS]

Might also be worth bleeding the clutch hydraulic system to make sure its not some how getting air in it.

[Neil robertsin]

With the hot or cold bit I was referring to the engagement of 1st gear rather than the starting.

[Catlover]

Yes I know Neil, and its the same engaging 1st gear hot or cold.

Thanks for the other replies too.

[J.Moncada64GT!]

Hello there...after changing the clutch I am experiencing this issue. 1st gear enter only when car is almost completely stopped. Any chance of how can I adjust this?

[furtula]

Does it enter fine into other gears, is there any grind, does it enter into 1st gear when rolling a bit?

[Stevie J]

Many of the Mk2 models with 5 speed manual transmissions have a very low biting point on the clutch pedal, they bite very near the floor, and sometimes even with the pedal fully depressed, the clutch does not 100% disengage drive from the gearbox, ie, it drags very slightly, causing gears to be a bit more difficult to get in, in particular, first from neutral, and getting reverse from neutral can be hit and miss, sometimes going in with a grind. This problem has always affected my car, and I tried all the usual stuff like bleeding the clutch lines at the slave cylinder bleed nipple, but it made no difference. Honest John in his reviews of the Mk2 has highlighted some models where the clutch does not always completely disengage drive, and causes resistance to gear changes unless the clutch pedal is mashed hard into the floor. I find the problem on mine gets worse in hot weather, and if the transmission and engine is hot. Seems to be a design problem with the clutch actuating mechanism, and on the Mk3 models, this issue does not occur as I drove my mother's 64 plate and the biting point is much higher up from the floor, so gear changing is no problem. People have tried changing clutches over this issue and it has not made any difference - still a low biting point and baulking at gear changes, so the issue is more with the slave cylinder not pushing the thrust bearing far enough in when the pedal is fully depressed, and no amount of bleeding will sort the issue, its just one of those annoying mk2 "quirks", and better get used to it, or sell the car on.

[scannerman]

Make sure that you don't have any secondary mats under the clutch pedal. Full disengagement of the clutch is pretty marginal and anything stopping the pedals full movement may have an effect. I cut the corner off of my wife's secondary drivers side car mat, no more crunching gear engagements.

I have always found first gear doesn't always engage when stationary, I think its because the mechanism in the gearbox isn't moving and at certain positions the synchro won't engage, this is not uncommon in other cars, it's also mentioned in the DVSA book "Driving the Essential skills", I just drop to second and then up to first.

[flash22]

tbh it sounds like the clutch needs bleeding or the linkage did not go back together correctly, did you check the slave cylinder wasn't leaking ? Did you top up the gearbox fluid ?

[uber]

Hello,

I own Toyota Yaris 2007. Same story here regarding the low bitting point of clutch pedal. Sometimes cannot shift into reverse. Possible, the biting point can be adjusted by adjsuting the free play of the pedal. In the manual it is note that the clutch pedal free play can be adjusted by loosening the lock nut and turning the push rod until the correct free play and push rod play are obtained. However in my car configuration there is no such nut. Please see the figure attached. Normally most of the master cylinders have it. Is it possible to make such adjustment in my case? Thanks!

[flash22]

Is it the 1.0 engine ? Has the clutch been bled ? What manual are you referring too ? French or Jap built yaris  ? LHD or RHD ?

 

Make sure the mat hasn't slipped up behind the pedal

[mrpj]

A "proper" clutch with adjustment. Good for left leg muscle developement too.

[bathtub tom]

Don't know what that is, but you should look at an Austin 7 clutch, that's even more direct.

[mrpj]

23 hours ago, bathtub tom said:

Don't know what that is, but you should look at an Austin 7 clutch, that's even more direct.

Early Morris Minor. More direct in later models. Link "39" has been replaced by a "relay shaft". New improved version!

[uber]

On 7/23/2021 at 6:36 PM, flash22 said:

Is it the 1.0 engine ? Has the clutch been bled ? What manual are you referring too ? French or Jap built yaris  ? LHD or RHD ?

 

Make sure the mat hasn't slipped up behind the pedal

"Is it the 1.0 engine ?"

It is Toyota Yaris 1.3 VVT-i, Engine: 2SZFE

"Has the clutch been bled ?"

The car passed clutch service diagnostic, and the clutch was bled one time (two persons method). The technican said "No air", probably new clutch is desired, but I've a doubt. I can shift into all gears (with pedal hit on the floor), but sometimes the shift was difficult into reverse (it is possible, but a grinding noise occures). If the pedal is even 1-2 mm above the floor, the grinding noise is much higher and sometimes the shifting is not possible.

"What manual are you referring too ?" Found it in this post of this forum:

https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/61070-cluth-pedal-issues/?tab=comments#comment-608386

"French or Jap built yaris  ?"

Since the VIN starts with VNK, it's sholud be a French built.

Do you have some any other related information depending on the country build?

"Make sure the mat hasn't slipped up behind the pedal"

I've already cut-off the mat under the pedal.

[flash22]

There can be changes between the Jap and French built cars, some parts are not the same

the clutch setup on the LHD cars is very different, the diagram in the link is for RHD

Is there any side to side play in the pedal ?

 

[uber]

1 hour ago, flash22 said:

There can be changes between the Jap and French built cars, some parts are not the same

the clutch setup on the LHD cars is very different, the diagram in the link is for RHD

Is there any side to side play in the pedal ?

 

My car is LHD. The pedal free play is around 17-18 mm. The push road play is 7-8 mm. The pedal height from the floor seems to be OK (It's a bit higher than the brake pedal). I can depresss the pedal to the bottom of the floor. When relased, the pedall gets back to its highest position normally. Is there any manual for LHD French version?

[flash22]

It doesn't show any adjustment for that type of clutch master, i can't find any tech info on it either

Are the clutch master cylinder nuts done up ?

The slave cylinder may be sucking in air and when you push the clutch in it isn't pushing the clutch arm far enough

[uber]

19 hours ago, flash22 said:

It doesn't show any adjustment for that type of clutch master, i can't find any tech info on it either

Are the clutch master cylinder nuts done up ?

The slave cylinder may be sucking in air and when you push the clutch in it isn't pushing the clutch arm far enough

The nuts seem OK.

Please see the picture, when the pedal is fully released (left) vs. when the pedal is fully depressed (right). I can't judge myself if the arm is quite far enought in this case.

[flash22]

Is the problem still there if you pump the clutch 10 times before putting it in gear ?

[uber]

On 7/27/2021 at 3:46 PM, flash22 said:

Is the problem still there if you pump the clutch 10 times before putting it in gear ?

Yes, the problem is still there. If I turn off the engine, there is no problem.

[corradovr6]

Ive tried adjusting the pushrod to come out a little further.  Does this need the clevis to be removed or once the locknut is loosened does the main brass drum rotate independently on the pushrod? 

Access is really awkward, you need to be either 3 foot tall and as flexible as a rubber band or remove the front seat.  I'm certainly not the former and because I didn't remove the seat i had a mission getting myself out at times..