Corolla Verso D4d 2.2 (177) 2007 Alternator Remplacement

[skullym]

Hi, after much searching and effort I have finally managed to remove and replace the alternator on my 2007 Corolla Verso 2.2 177 - there appear to be no manuals specific to this engine and even the toyota-tech.eu website did not recognize my VIN and gave me the FTV engine instructions and not the FHV (177 bhp).

So if anyone else is attempting this here is how I did it (but there may be other/easier ways...).

I should point out my car is a left-hand drive so UK right-hand drive may have the steering shaft in the way too.

1. Remove negative lead from Battery.

2. Loosen wheel bolts on front right wheel.

3. jack up front right hand side, remove wheel.

4. Remove engine covers from underneath right hand side and within wheel arch (two covers in total)

5. Remove top bolt from stabilizer link assembly (short vertical rod attached to shock absorber)

6. Undo 2 nuts and 1 bolt from lower ball joint and separate the two parts (may need a big screw driver to ply them apart)

7. Support the bottom of the shock absorber (or under the brake disk)

8. Remove the 3 nuts at the top of the shock absorber (under the bonnet) and allow the whole thing to be lowered down significantly - be careful not to stress the brake tubes or wires !

9. Remove the connections to the top of the alternator (2 bolts for electrical connections and 1 plug) - you have to do this part virtually blind as its up behind the back of the engine.

10. Remove the alternator belt (push with a spanner anticlockwise on the nut shaped housing of the tensioner pulley) - note the path of the belt to make reassembly easier.

11. Protect the rubber gaiter on the drive shaft with a cloth and remove the 3 alternator bolts. Lower the alternator carefully and push it towards the back of the car so it is sitting on something solid but not on the drive shaft/gaiter. The alternator is now off the engine but can not be removed from the engine bay.

12. Now you have to remove the 2 bolts on the drive shaft bearing assembly (in the middle of the drive shaft between the gearbox and the gaiter). You can tap them lightly once loosened to help ease the drive shaft out of the gear box.

13. Remove the 3 bolts on the drive shaft bearing hanger and free the hanger.

14. Now you can manipulate the wheel assembly and drive shaft to pull the drive shaft out of the gearbox and push it back up to rest on top of the gearbox. This moves the gaiter sufficiently down and out of the way to enable the alternator to be removed.

15. Carefully remove the alternator. Its still a very tight fit and needs to be turned to exactly the right orientation but it will come out ! Be careful not to damage the gaiter on the way out (protect it with a cloth).

Now congratulate yourself and have some tea before you put it all back in reverse order ! (watch out for steps 13 and 12 as it is easier to put the hanger back on before you push the drive shaft back in the gearbox and tighten the 2 bearing bolts.

Also, as you have taken the drive shaft out of the gearbox, there will be some leakage of gearbox oil - so you need to top this back up when finished (I added 200ml)

Hope this is useful to someone and will save others some time and pain !

Drive shaft diagram.pdf

[TomdeGuerre]

Great write up Mike, very informative and supplemented with pictures and pdf tech doc.

Couple of questions just out of interest:

Step 4 when you remove covers - from underneath the engine and within wheel well - were these screws or the push-in plastic fasteners and, if so, were you able to re-use them?

Steep 10 removing the alternator drive belt. If I'm not fitting a new belt, I usually attach a bungee cord at the top of the belt to maintain a bit of tension and make sure the belt doesn't slip off the pulleys. Saves a bit of grief 'cos if you let it go sometimes it's a bit of aggro getting it back round the correct path. Was there any room to do this?

[skullym]

Hi Tom,

To remove the covers there is a mixture of plastic clips and screws. If you are careful with the clips they can be reused - for most of them you pull the centre part out and that releases the clip. The exception is the big clip towards the rear of the wheel arch cover. It is W shaped on the other side of the hole. I just prised it out with a screw-driver and it was more or less intact. To do it properly you should squeeze it from behind with a pair of pliers for example.

Getting the belt back on is not too difficult as long as you remember the right path (I spent 15 minutes trying to figure this out as I had not done so). I also attached a bit of thin rope from my spanner to the front of the engine bay to hold it in position while I put the belt back on. Not too sure if a bungee would help as you have to have the slack to get the belt off (or back on) the alternator pulley.

[john T brown]

Hi i have just changed the alternator on my toyota verso diesel 2006 and your instruction were idle ,mine is a right hand drive ,but i found i did not have to remove the top bolts on the shocker absorbers john

[ProC15]

I just removed the alternator - without removing wheel or drive shaft!

It IS a tight fit, I agree...but:

The distance between drive shaft and bridge is the problem. But instead of removing the drive shaft, it is possible to lift the engine just enough to get the alternator out - if You have access to a crane.

Just remove the big vertical bolt on the body side of the top engine mount. Then Attach the crane to the mount and lift. There is just enough flexibility in the other three mounts to make enough room between bridge and drive shaft for the alternator. It has to be oriented just the right way (plastic end first) - but it will come out!