Find Me An Auris Hybrid!

[Wayne2015]

Booked in with Toyota today:

1. Free winter check

2. Free tyre check

3. Full air con service £59

4. Recall fix: Upgrade ECU

5 Will get a printout for my car s service history

Wonder if they will pick up the:

A. De-laminated number plates

B. Non-standard all-season tyres

[TomdeGuerre]

I’ve had some of these health checks done on mine when one or other of my cars were in for warranty work etc. I’m sure the garage you’re dealing with is entirely diligent and scrupulously honest but I’ve noticed a couple of things with mine. For one thing my spare tyre (brand new, space saver, never been on the road had its tread depth reported as 5mm, 6mm 8mm and 3mm on separate visits! For another when i told them my spare tyre was low on pressure and they reported they had inflated it i still found it was low.

I’ve also noticed they reported having to top up fluids when I had specifically checked my fluid levels before I went in and made sure they were OK. Oh well I guess the mechanics have to pauchle their oil somewhere for their home jobs.

It’ll be interesting to see what your results are but remember, trust and verify.

[Wayne2015]

Cheers Tom :)

And did u specifically requested that they NOT to wash your car with a wire brush?

I got them to write down clearly:

Must NOT wash car

But VAC is OK :)

[TomdeGuerre]

Cheers Tom :)

And did u specifically requested that they NOT to wash your car with a wire brush?

I got them to write down clearly:

Must NOT wash car

But VAC is OK :)

Lol, forgot about the wire brush car wash and the brillo pad drying off. I remember I went to pick up my Corolla once and saw the Worzel Gummidge garage labourer up close and personal with the pressure washer as if he was trying to lift the paint off my car. Turned out that’s exactly what he was trying to do. There were a load of white paint spots along one side of the car from the sills to about halfway up the doors. I was mystified as to what they were but he conned me into believing I must have parked the car somewhere they were using Snowcem on a building and I believed him. He couldn’t get it all off so I told him just to leave it and I’d get it off myself.

It was only when I left the garage and approached the roundabout I saw they were putting down the new white lines with a gas flame torch thingy so that’s where they must have picked it up when they test drove it. I was pi$$ed off that he’d tried to con me and I went looking for him the next time I was in but he’d gone.

Maybe they’ll use a heat gun to “repair” that rear window of yours.

[TomdeGuerre]

Uooooohhhh, sticky handbrake is it? Rememner that big 14lb hammer I told you about? time to get it out!

LOL

Just have to NOT use handbrake then!

(Remember I have an auto?!!! :lol2: :D :P ;) )

I take it you've got CVT in your car. Tell you what, ask them about the gearbox oil level and the oil change intervals. Toyota has gone the same way as VAG etc in making the transmission oil level check so that you need a degree in hydrodynamics and about £5 grand's worth of computerised equipment, ye gods, what was wrong with having a dipstick? . They fill it at the factory and then they give it a quick visual for oil leaks at the services and work on the basis that if there's no oil leaks then it must be full. hmmmmmmm, not so sure myself.

[Wayne2015]

OK

Ask em ref how to check geabox oil level

Ask em when engine oil change is (or is that gearbox oil)?

[TomdeGuerre]

Just broach them on the subject of the CVT and ask how often they check the gearbox oil level and how often the CVT gearbox oil should be changed.I.m just curious to know what they say.

[Wayne2015]

OK

1. Local Toyota offering BOGOF Warranty too - yay! :)

- but its £546 as opposed to other dealers at £516

- unless it's £516 for Auris and £546 for Auris Hybrid???

2. They prefer not to print out service history

- but if I register online with MY TOYOTA then as long as its linked to DVLA to say I own car, then I can access my service history online :)

3. Getting a quote for SERVICE PLAN now ...

PS:

Tom!

Gearbox oil is sealed unit

No need to check / change unless it's leaking!

U right, buddy! :)

[Wayne2015]

Any use to any Taxi drivers?

So does non-Taxi s have a warranty up to 150,000 miles too????

[Wayne2015]

Winter tyre storage / swop:

1. £50 (one off) :) :) :)

2. Swop tyres £25

So that is :

1st year: £75 (one swop)

2nd year+ : £50 (incl 2 swops)

Cheap?

[Wayne2015]

2 year

3 year

And 4 year plans (with handwritten individual cost to compare) :)

APPARENTLY

My car s FULL+ is not at 40k :(

But at 60k :( :( :(

Value for money???

[FROSTYBALLS]

I'd go back to them and quote the Fixed Price Service costs for each service - which for the 4 year plan comes to £826 excluding brake fluid changes for the two Intermediate, one Full+ and one Full services.

If they come down in price (which my dealer did), you could include the two brake fluid changes for around £904.

Whatever 'extras' you get included (brake fluid change, air con service, MOT's or whatever), get these written into the service plan - that way each party knows for certain what is included and what isn't.

Also query whether there are any additional benefits - for example my current plan provides 10% off accessories, parts and labour for other items I buy or work I have done outside of the service plan.

[Wayne2015]

I'd go back to them and quote the Fixed Price Service costs for each service - which for the 4 year plan comes to £826 excluding brake fluid changes for the two Intermediate, one Full+ and one Full services.

If they come down in price (which my dealer did), you could include the two brake fluid changes for around £904.

Whatever 'extras' you get included (brake fluid change, air con service, MOT's or whatever), get these written into the service plan - that way each party knows for certain what is included and what isn't.

Also query whether there are any additional benefits - for example my current plan provides 10% off accessories, parts and labour for other items I buy or work I have done outside of the service plan.

Cheers Frosty! :)

Four year plan includes brake fluid (x2) + air con service (x2), but no MOT (as I can pay 1/2 price MOT anytime). So it should be a couple of quids cheaper :)

Yes, they offer 10% off as standard.

But think the Bristol branch offer a whopping 30% off - I could visit my parents more often (wink)(wink) - lol :) :) :)

[Wayne2015]

Low rear brake pads :(

And strangely 6.8mm tread on front driver side (these are BRAND NEW tyres fitted last week!)

Funny that, it was the same tyre location that gave me a flat last week?!!!!!

Something wrong?

[FROSTYBALLS]

The rears having worn by 50% still gives plenty of life in them and as regards the one front tyre, 0.1mm difference is nothing

[Wayne2015]

Hmmmm

Only ever had "one" EXCELLENT on the Eco Drive Level :(

Need to do better!!!

Anyway

After switching off for say 20seconds

There is this horrible mechanical movement sound directly under the steering wheel - what is it???

[TomdeGuerre]

Wayne said: Anyway, After switching off for say 20seconds There is this horrible mechanical movement sound directly under the steering wheel - what is it???

>>> I don’t know what the noise is but has it just started happening since you had the air conditioning system done? I know my Jeep Grand Cherokees used to go through a self-calibration mode of their systems periodically and this gave some weired noises while they did this but I don’t know whether yours does anything like that.

Is your air-con working OK?

[TomdeGuerre]

PS:Tom!

Gearbox oil is sealed unit

No need to check / change unless it's leaking!

U right, buddy! :)

CVT transmission oil changes? Oh don’t worry sir, this is a fully automated system and nothing can go wrong, can go wrong, can go wrong – aye right. Funny how the Audi needs the CVT fluid changed every 40,000 miles (and yes, I know all about the Multronic issues).

Anyway, so what about the safety report, do they use the traffic light system red, yellow green? I take it no reds

[Wayne2015]

Wayne said: Anyway, After switching off for say 20seconds There is this horrible mechanical movement sound directly under the steering wheel - what is it???

>>> I don’t know what the noise is but has it just started happening since you had the air conditioning system done? I know my Jeep Grand Cherokees used to go through a self-calibration mode of their systems periodically and this gave some weired noises while they did this but I don’t know whether yours does anything like that.

Is your air-con working OK?

Hi Tom

Air con working fine! :)

No, that sound there BEFORE air con job.

Didn't noticed before as its "ignition off, jump out of car"

But notice almost EVERYTIME (I think?) When I sat in car after power off....

[Wayne2015]

PS:Tom!

Gearbox oil is sealed unit

No need to check / change unless it's leaking!

U right, buddy! :)

CVT transmission oil changes? Oh don’t worry sir, this is a fully automated system and nothing can go wrong, can go wrong, can go wrong – aye right. Funny how the Audi needs the CVT fluid changed every 40,000 miles (and yes, I know all about the Multronic issues).

Anyway, so what about the safety report, do they use the traffic light system red, yellow green? I take it no reds

Lol

Yes.

Traffic light report.

ALL green :)

Except for AMBER rear brake pads at 50% worn....

[TomdeGuerre]

Wayne, it's high time you got a plan together for these rear brakes of yours. apart from anything else if they're dragging or sticking it won't be helping your economy one bit. They're fairly easy to do but maybe you prefer getting them done in a garage.

You need to decide whether you want to fit new pads or re-use the old ones. If you don't use the brakes all that heavily I'd think there was a good bit of life left in them at 50% and if you re-use them it saves you the trouble of having to rewind the caliper pistons which you have to do to fit new pads. jack up, block securely, strip 'em down, clean them all up, re-assemble and test. Job's a good 'un.

Optional bits: New set rear pads, hardware set of shims etc.

Female audience with arms folded or holding onto walking frames.

Deaf ear to tune out wimmin's "helpful" comments like Oh look at your nice clean shirt, it's all dirty now.

[Wayne2015]

Lol

No chance!

Last time I did it there was TWO of us...

1. Wheel bolt cemented to wheel - even a 3ft breaker bar PLUS a 3ft metal pipe on top = about 5ft couldn't get the darn nut off!

2. Calipers seized - so one side of pads more worn than other side etc

- could not wind piston back

- tried all sorts, pliers, g clamps, mallet, hammer....

3. In the end bought a winding tool set (for pistons)

- and nope, bent that tool too - eeeek!

I am not a DIY person

Have tried in the past with disastrous consequences!

I not afraid to try - but only if I have a back up plan (dry garage, 2nd car etc)

Once I decided to clean the throttle body

All it need was a new throttle body gasket - which I bought from dealers

Put it back together and it just wasn't right straight away :(

No

Best to leave to Toyota - even the simplest things!

I read on here that a few hard stops will solve the brake issue????

No?

[TomdeGuerre]

Lol

No chance!

Last time I did it there was TWO of us...

1. Wheel bolt cemented to wheel - even a 3ft breaker bar PLUS a 3ft metal pipe on top = about 5ft couldn't get the darn nut off!

2. Calipers seized - so one side of lads more worn than other side etc

- could wind piston back

- tried all sorts, pliers, g clamps, mallet, hammer....

3. In the end bought a winding tool set (for pistons)

- and hope, bent that tool too - eeeek!

No, Best to leave to Toyota - even the simplest things!

I read on here that a few hard stops will solve the brake issue????

No?

Aye, you can run up against a lot of things when you’re doing the brakes although one thing you shouldn’t have any trouble with is your wheel nuts since they’ve just been off. It’s a massively dirty job though what with the rust, road dirt, and brake dust then if you mix some fluid into that lot……..

I wouldn’t expect your brakes to be too bad because your car is only a year older than mine so your main trouble’s likely to be the pads sticking in their carrier slots and the disc surfaces being corroded. All just a matter of stripping and cleaning, lubricating and re-assembly. I wouldn’t expect you to have seized pistons in your callipers.

You asked about applying the brakes hard a few times and yes, it’s something you should do periodically just to clean up the surfaces, especially if you don’t tend to use your brakes much. BUT if your pads are partially seized in the carriers you won’t clear them just by doing some heavy braking..

I’ve had my handbrake stripped and cleaned twice already. I bought it less than a year old and they had power washed all the wheels and brakes and driven detergent and grit into the pad/disc area and the handbrake felt stiff so I stripped, cleaned and lubricated it all. My trouble is that I hardly use the handbrake, mostly just after I’ve washed the car I’ll take it a run and apply it lightly a few times just to dry off the discs.

After the winter the back discs were looking a bit grotty so I stripped them again, cleaned everything up again and it’s been fine since.

The standard pads Toyota use are pretty rubbish at keeping the surface of the disc clean. I found a lot of metal inclusions on the pad material so had to pick them out then clean up the pads on a flat surface with some rough emery first then fine stuff.

[TomdeGuerre]

Mean while, just to prove that i don't just criticise Toyota, i've spent a bit of time today trying to remove the top pinch bolt from an Audi front suspension. I'd like to get as hold of the bozo that designed this thing. Penetrating oil is pretty useless when you're dealing with these things so somebody told me that acetone was the absolute best penetrating thing in the whole universe. I rummaged through the bathroom cabinet (while she was out) and found a bottle of nail varnish remover which is a mixture of acetone and lanolin. Just the job thinks I. Slackened off the nut, gave the bolt a few wallops with the 4lb lump hammer, brushed and sprayed on the nail varnish remover and .... absolutely nothing, this thing is as solid as, well, Northern Rock was before the meltdown. I'll continue the soak, hammer, belt treatment for a couple of days but it looks like a trip to the garage for an appointment with the big hot spanner (oxy-acetylene torch).

[Wayne2015]

Could u not:

1. WD40

2. Derust with Bilt Chamber Deox gel overnight

3. Then put a socket on it - then whack the socket?

4. Last resort either blow torch or shear it off???

I agree

But, unless older classic cars - I tend to stick with OEM and get dealer to do it.

2. Keeps warranty 'easier' to be intact

3. As long as OEM and dealer are not too rubbish nor expensive

I usually swop the bulbs for night breakers - but mine are fine.

And swop brakes for bigger ones (pagid are fine too) - but my brakes quite grippy too

And add a performance air filter - since I drive like Me Daisy s Mum, I think the OEM ones are fine :)

So

Being an auto, is it fine to leave the handbrake off (even a slight incline)???