Find Me An Auris Hybrid!

[FROSTYBALLS]

I would think if posts were able to be deleted by members, it may result in threads becoming disjointed - posts being removed which were part of an ongoing discussion, etc.

[Wayne2015]

Back at Toyota dealer that carried out the full air con service £59.

The real bad smelly musty socks not come back day - but can still sniff it.

Toyota offered another free de-contamination.

After an initial check.

They recommend a pollen filter change as mine is quite mucky at £39

After another check

They recommend another full air con service (free)

FINALLY

Managed to "verify my Toyota" on My Toyota

(V5 log book was needed to verify, but I still haven't got mine yet!)

Well the nice man at Toyota gave me the CODE to verify my Toyota :)

And now I can SEE my car s service history: There was no pollen filter change ...EVER! :( :( :(

Also

Dealer say NOT all dealership can access other dealers computer system to see other cars service history (as they might use a different computer system :()

So

Still at Toyota waiting on...

1. Pollen filter change £39

2. Air con re-gas again (free)

3. NO WASH!

[TomdeGuerre]

They should have checked the pollen filter and advised you if it was stoomfff when they serviced the system.

[Wayne2015]

They should have checked the pollen filter and advised you if it was stoomfff when they serviced the system.

I guess so

Maybe as everything is cost-conscious these days, its one less thing to check hence save money on time????

Besides, if my car had full service history - then it should have been replaced - but I guess maybe previous owner decided NOT too - as I recall on the service plans its an optional extra (as is the Brake Fluid and air con service) - come to think of it has my car had its brake fluid changed????

Spoke to service about how to best drive car when slowing down, he advises to always BRAKE - as it:

1. Recharges the Battery better

2. Uses the brake (and brake harder too incase brakes becomes ineffective!)

Now doesn't conventional teaching say brake gently to save fuel?

So do I brake gently to save fuel and brake discs/pads?

OR

brake harder (not hard) to charge better Battery and make brakes more effective????

So, is this another "Do u use BRAKES to slow down car OR use ENGINE-braking debate?"

[Wayne2015]

Just double checked at home (hard to see service history on the mobile ) ...

NO BRAKE FLUID changed since 3 years and 43,000 miles

According to my service plan, my next brake fluid (included) will be in Jun 2017.

I think I will bite the bullet and fork out £39 to get the brake fluid before winter....

[FROSTYBALLS]

Changing the pollen (air conditioning) filter isn't part of the normal service regime - it is one of the chargeable extras like brake fluid, etc.

In addition to the standard air conditioning filter, Toyota also sell an enhanced filter which is about 50% more expensive, but may be worth considering if one has asthma or similar -

http://blog.toyota.co.uk/keep-your-toyota-smelling-fresh

http://blog.toyota.co.uk/toyota-cabin-filters-the-secret-to-cleaner-air-infographic

[Heidfirst]

the pollen filter is only ~£18 as a part & on other Toyotas is generally a very easy job to replace.

[Wayne2015]

Changing the pollen (air conditioning) filter isn't part of the normal service regime - it is one of the chargeable extras like brake fluid, etc.

In addition to the standard air conditioning filter, Toyota also sell an enhanced filter which is about 50% more expensive, but may be worth considering if one has asthma or similar -

http://blog.toyota.co.uk/keep-your-toyota-smelling-fresh

http://blog.toyota.co.uk/toyota-cabin-filters-the-secret-to-cleaner-air-infographic

So, mine was checked last week during the first air con service???

>>>

It’s important to replace the cabin air filter regularly.Your cabin air filter should be inspected every 10,000 miles, to ensure that the performance of your car’s air conditioning remains optimal.

>>>

I wasn't offered a choice :( :( :(

>>>

When you have your cabin air filter replaced at a Toyota dealer, you have a choice of two types. For most drivers, the regular filter is more than up to the job of keeping the air you breathe clean and fresh. It’s made of high-quality, non-woven fabric, which effectively removes soot, dust, lead, sulphates and exhaust particles from the air. Even particles just a few tenths of a micron in size are captured.

>>>

What is a Carbon filter? :help2:

>>>

Don’t forget to maintain the additional filters in your Toyota too – carbon and engine air. The replacement times for these parts vary model to model. Taking Prius as a guide, the car’s carbon filter requires replacing at 10,000 miles, while its engine air filter should be checked at 20,000 miles, and replaced at 40,000.

>>>

[Wayne2015]

the pollen filter is only ~£18 as a part & on other Toyotas is generally a very easy job to replace.

Thanks

I always changed my car's cabin filter myself (usually behind glove compartment) in older cars.

How easy is it in my 2012 Auris Hybrid?

[Heidfirst]

it's probably behind the glovebox in your Auris, what does the manual say?

[TomdeGuerre]

I changed the cabin (or pollen) filter on my last Auris a few times, it's dead easy, plenty of pictures/videos on the web.

When I got my present Auris I found there was a smell coming off the air-con so pulled the cabin filter as part of my investigations. I didn't know about the activated charcoal filter and when I pulled mine it was black and looked filthy so I binned it and bought a nice new white one. I don't think these filters are very effective anyway, they're not a good fit (neither the Toyota one nor the pattern one. You can maybe get t shoehorned in OK but if you ever remove it you'll probly find it wrinkled / distorted. In any case I'm sure they don't seal and filter 100% of the incoming air.

If you've got bacteria growing in the heat exchanger part of the air con then you can change the cabin filter every day and you won't get at the source of the problem. You need to cleanse the system using the proper biocide and only after it's been cleaned out should you fit a new cabin filter

[Wayne2015]

it's probably behind the glovebox in your Auris, what does the manual say?

Thanks again, it was in the manual

Next time I think I will buy the better pollen filter (thanks Frosty) and replace it myself (thanks Heidfirst) :) :) :)

[Wayne2015]

If you've got bacteria growing in the heat exchanger part of the air con then you can change the cabin filter every day and you won't get at the source of the problem. You need to cleanse the system using the proper biocide and only after it's been cleaned out should you fit a new cabin filter

Cheers Tom

So what u mean by "proper biocide"???

I am so dreading these air con smells - that each car I used to own, ONCE they inherit that musty smelly sock smell - it is IMPOSSIBLE to get rid off!!!

My last research concludes that:

The ONLY way to remove smell, is to kill the bacteria from UNDER the car and get direct to the air con evaporator and spray anti-bacteria on it then and there!

Those car bombs and spray into cabin air-vents only have limited usage.....I am keeping my finger crossed on my Auris...

[TomdeGuerre]

A proper biocide is something that the professionals should use when they service your system. Often they don't, they use the spray then give it a good waft of perfumed aerosol, soak thre new cabin filter in it for good measure and send you on your merry way.

Make no mistake about it, air-con contamination can be a real problem to get rid of. In fact you never completely get rid of it 'cos it can come back any time.

[Wayne2015]

A proper biocide is something that the professionals should use when they service your system. Often they don't, they use the spray then give it a good waft of perfumed aerosol, soak thre new cabin filter in it for good measure and send you on your merry way.

Make no mistake about it, air-con contamination can be a real problem to get rid of. In fact you never completely get rid of it 'cos it can come back any time.

So the advise of having the air con on ALL the time and do not leave car parked up for more than a week is incorrect?

[TomdeGuerre]

No, you're better to use your air-con as much as you can. As you probably well know, you can use it for hot or cold.

A good thing to do with it is put it on full recirc mode on the highest possible temperature setting and leave it running for at least 15 minutes. With yourself outside the car of course.

[Wayne2015]

Very crude test on mpg...

Roads:
6 miles commute each way
3 evenings bypass 3 miles each way
Ocassional weekend outing



1. Accelerate / drive / coast then brake veeeee-ry carefully

FILL-UP:






GOT: 51.9mpg over 404miles...









2. NEXT! Accelerate briskly, but maintain drive and coast/brake veeeee-ry carefully - lol

FILL-UP:

[offashead]

Not bad Wayne. I put on 465 miles and filled up with 40 quids worth at 1.09 per gallon, the fuel meter showed 75 miles left before I did this. A rough calculation brings in around 57 mpg compared to 64 on the readout. Very happy with the 57 if that's what it really is?

[Wayne2015]

LAST chance for WINTER-protection as the temperature is still double-digits today :)

Alloy wheels 'winter' protection...

Love baby wipes!

Bilt-Hamber Auto Wheel

HARD Sealant FK1001p

[Wayne2015]

External glass protection...

Washed

Clayed...

IPA

AngelWax H2GO "Rain Repellants" - also helps with frost and freezing over...

- 3 coats front

- 2 coats rear

- 1 coat sides

[TomdeGuerre]

i've heard that Big White stuff's good on ally wheels but i don't think it would do on mine. Seems like I've got a kind of plasticised finish which is easy wipe clean but i don't think it was meant to or would stand up to any kind of buffing or polishing.

[TomdeGuerre]

External glass protection...

Washed...Clayed...

Clay Bar on yer windows?? Never heard of...... mind you i've led a sheltered life.

[Wayne2015]

i've heard that Big White stuff's good on ally wheels but i don't think it would do on mine. Seems like I've got a kind of plasticised finish which is easy wipe clean but i don't think it was meant to or would stand up to any kind of buffing or polishing.

Depends bud!

U want protection layer or detailed polished shiny layer?

I just want a winter protection as do not want my well-scruffed alloys to corrode over the winter temp/grit.....

[Wayne2015]

External glass protection...

Washed...Clayed...

Clay Bar on yer windows?? Never heard of...... mind you i've led a sheltered life.

Car detailing has moved on massively since the day of "Use a sponge to wash car and a chamois leather to dry!"

I only learnt of claying glass about a year or 2 ago - before I thought one only clay paintwork....

In fact glass like paintwork will also be damaged and embedded with 1000s of micro contaminants - so claying to remove these contaminants are well worth it as unlike bodywork where running thru with your fingers u feel the smoothness....the front windscreen is wiped 1000s of times by the windscreen wipers and u want a SMOOTH wipe and less damage to the Wiper Blades too

As with de-oxidising or is removing of metallic contaminants from the front windscreen - this is same as PURPLE rain on wheels - as u drive 1000s of miles and the cars in front are braking all the time and thus brake dust will also hit your front windscreen and embed the brake dust (more so if not clayed the windscreen) ....

But having said all the above - its all too hard core stuff for me - if u want to know more go and check out detailing world...

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php

I bet u haven't read how to detailed a glass or plastic headlights yet have u????

Nightmare work - wet/dy sandpaper, clay, IPA......

[Wayne2015]

Very crude test on mpg...Roads:6 miles commute each way3 evenings bypass 3 miles each wayOcassional weekend outing1. Accelerate / drive / coast then brake veeeee-ry carefullyFILL-UP:GOT: 51.9mpg over 404miles...2. NEXT! Accelerate briskly, but maintain drive and coast/brake veeeee-ry carefully - lolFILL-UP:

UPDATE:

After a few days on TEST 2 - Drive as per TEST 1, but with more brisk acceleration into PWR bands often (NOT every time)...

Initially ONLY commuting: 39mpg - eeeek!

After a blast on the bypass (PWR mostly to 60mph, then ease off to ECO as speed reaches 70+): 42mpg :)

Now, after just ONE PWR instance in morning commute and 2 PWR instances on return trip: 44mpg :)

Another blast on bypass tonight...