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Fried Clutch


KMcD
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Reversing uphill with a caravan over the weekend my clutch got fried. Smoke from under the bonnet, horrible smell, wasn't pretty. Once it had cooled I took the car out for a test run and all seems to be functioning as it should. But now I can't shake the feeling that the clutch has been damaged and the only way to avoid it giving up on the upward side of a French Alps pass this winter is to replace it.

07 Avensis T180 estate with 80,000 miles up. So my question to the Guru's this time is : Is it likely that the clutch is now blutered, and if so is replacing it within the scope of a reasonably competent DIY home mechanic without access to 'special' tools? Is it an engine out job ? As there doesn't appear to be a Haynes manual for my car, is a walk through available anywhere?

I'm the first to accept by the way that you may think a 'reasonably competent' DIY mechanic wouldn't be so stupid as to fry his clutch. And as I really like this car that's something I don't feel too clever about.

Comments appreciated.

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Assuming your clutch wasn't super worn and due replacement already, I wouldn't worry about it.

Clutches are pretty tough - You may have just taken a few hundred miles off it's life but if it feels and drives okay now it should still be fine.

If smoking a clutch was enough to damage it enough to need replacement, driving instructors would be be charging £300 a lesson :lol:

(Now, if you'd managed this in an automatic OTOH, you'd probably be looking at a very large bill! :lol:

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it is do able at home but easier and quicker on a lift, clutch change on diesels can be pricey if the dual mass flywheels needs doing. I would give it a few weeks see how it goes. 80,000 is not a lot I got 140,000 out of mine and another one in the family is on 165,000+ still going strong.

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I only got around 75-80 k on mine. (But that was with all town driving.oh and the woman driving it.)

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Hi,

Well smell wouldn't be that bad, but smoke, means a lot of slipping clutch. There is a test for clutch known for ages, apply handbrake ( it has to work 100%) or find a really steep uphil and stop at the steepest point, then put in 1-st gear or 2-nd and release clutch slowly without touching accelerator. IF engine stalls imediatelly, then i think you are good. If there is any doubt, do all the same up to the point of releasing clutch, but now give it a little revs, 2000 rpm i think is enough, if it stalls again ( you need really steep slope and good handbrake combination at this test), then you are good. When clutch is fully engaged it has to be really worn to start slipping. Ofcourse if you going to "play" at the alps the same way like moving from stand still, then slippage is possible.

Mr.T

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What you don't want happening is the clutch driven plate being worn down to the rivets which in turn will fubar the flywheel..?is there anyway you can check on these cars to physically see how far the plate has worn.

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What you don't want happening is the clutch driven plate being worn down to the rivets which in turn will fubar the flywheel..?is there anyway you can check on these cars to physically see how far the plate has worn.

without taking the gearbox off the answer is NO.

if you take the starter off you can see cog of flywheel but still cannot physically check condition of flywheel.

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You should try to avoid reversing a caravan, or any braked trailer intended for a car, up any significant incline. This is because the brakes will engage when the trailer is pushed up an incline backwards. This will obviously put extra strain on your clutch.

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