Auris Dash Cam Wiring

[Key]

Hi folks :)

I looking to hard-wire a Dash cam in on my 2011 1.6 petrol Auris

The easy bit looks like pushing the wiring under the roof lining across to the A Pillar, the latter kind of concerns me a bit, under the A pillar is sleeping an Air bag, the last thing in the world I want to do is wake this air bag up, I hate sudden unexpected explosions

Any help from anyone with educated opinions or from someone who has trod this path before would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

[cmclean]

Should be fine routing it down the pillar as long as it's just tucked in at the edge. Done this with both the power lead and the feed from the rear camera and had no worries

[JarnoSe]

Take power from the roof light in the sunglass box? If I remember correctly it has power only when the key is on.

[Key]

Many thanks Colin, I'm going for your idea, within the last hour I've been in touch with my Toyota who says a special tool is required to remove the trim on the A pillar, but having looked at it again I'd think the trim need not be removed, it looks like the wire can be routed between the trim & the door seal, however I'm always open to suggestions :)

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Thanks Jarno a problem exists re your method (I think) the Cam is powered by 5 volts not 12v thus either the supplied plugin cigarette lighter plug must be used, or alternatively a hard wiring kit must be purchased too.

Interestingly it had crossed my mind to remove the internal hardware from an old 5v Tomtom cigarette lighter plug & use that but damned thing is somehow fused sealed there are no screw on screw off bits, which IMO is a bit crazy since there's (should be) an internal un-line fuse.

[mrpj]

When I fitted front and rear cameras to my Yaris it wasn't necessary to remove any trim. The power cable is just tucked in behind the roof lining then similarly behind the side trim between its top edge and roof lining. It then fits nicely behind the door seal all the way down to the bottom of the dash where it is easy to hide routed behind the dash.

I suspect the special tool might be a pair of long nose pliers to turn the "sacrificial" fixing through 90 degrees!

The rear camera cable is similarly routed but on the other side and not down the door seal but along the top and behind the upper door seal. It tucks nicely behind both the B and C pillar plastic trims. Then to the camera under the rear of the roof lining. Spare cable is pushed behind the rear of the roof lining.

[Frostbite-UK]

Quite a timely thread, my first Dashcam got delivered to me today, so I'm asking myself similar questions.

I have a 2014 Auris Touring Sports Elite and I'm looking at placing the camera behind my rear view mirror (or in front, depending upon your perspective!).

This would mean that the camera has a high and central view of the road, however I need to get a feed from the central lighting console in the ceiling.

My first problem is getting in there! I want to remove the lighting module but need to know where to attack first.

Anyone have access to any workshop manual for this new car model?

[FROSTYBALLS]

Have a look at: www.toyota-tech.eu

Some information is chargeable.

[offashead]

Very strange all this about dash cams as I have one on order too. Mines one of those that goes over the mirror, another mirror on top of the original mirror. It has two cameras one can face forward or back or both can go forward or back. They are both situated under the mirror itself, to the right as you look into it. It should be relatively straightforward to install as I can plug it into the cigar lighter and hide the wires quite easily.

[Key]

Take care Allan. If you're going to take your supply from the overhead lighting console, unless you've already got an hard wiring kit, you need to make 100% certain you're Cam is powered by 12v.

If yours is like mine, it's got a 12v to 5v dropper fitted in the cigarette lighter plug & the same applies with the hard wired kit too.

HTHs

[JarnoSe]

Thanks Jarno a problem exists re your method (I think) the Cam is powered by 5 volts not 12v thus either the supplied plugin cigarette lighter plug must be used, or alternatively a hard wiring kit must be purchased too.

I would use some hard wire kit, like this

[Frostbite-UK]

Thanks for the info and warnings about voltage guys, I did know about the 5v input rating on the device and will be using a wired step down solution.

I'm no closer to getting into the roof lining however, I might need a trip to a workshop for some tips.

[Frostbite-UK]

Finally finished the installation of my Ambarella A7LA50 Dashcam, so I thought I'd post the information I gathered along the way.

Hopefully this will help someone in the future.

I was looking for a neat and tidy installation, so wanted it mounted at the top centre of the windscreen for the best view. I also wanted it hidden from general view from the inside and outside, but still easily accessible. Finally after a little playing around I decided I could fit it behind the rear view mirror whilst leaving enough space for mirror adjustment.

Next problem was getting power and having the power switched off with the ignition, I didn't want recording to continue 24/7 and flatten the Battery.

I needed to tap into the cabling somehow and the upper central console looked a good source.

Dashcam Installation">

After a visit to a Toyota Garage for some tips in removing the light, I discovered it was just a matter of ensuring there were no bolts/screws holding it up by checking behing the light lenses (none found) and then levering the console out until the clips popped out.

Dashcam Installation">

You can see here that my unit is just held in place the four pop clips (2 blue & 2 white clips in photo).
Best method is to use a long thin plastic prise tool to lever it out, however I improvised with an ice scraper. The connecting cables are easily unplugged.

From eBay I purchased a 12v DC to 5v DC converter with a micro USB plug on the end, suitable for running my dashcam.

(£3.58 inc postage from a UK supplier)

and also a few wire taps and spade connectors to spur off the power from the existing cabling in the roof lining.

(£3.15 inc postage from a UK supplier) - Also known as T-Tap or ScotchLok

Using a meter and probes I found that the black and white wire was common ground/negative and a blue wire had a 12v supply which was cut with the ignition (perfect!) These wires powered my rear view mirror auto anti-dazzle, so shouldn't cause a problem tapping into that.

Press on the connectors onto the wires (using pliers), crimp the spade connectors onto the power adapter and plug in. Nice and easy, no soldering.

After plugging it all in and routing the USB cable down the side of the mirror trunking, it was just a simple case of popping the centre light console back.

Easy peasy, looks neat and works great!

30 minute job from start to finish (including taking photos!)

[Speed_Chaser]

Nice install and write up. Glad you got it all sorted out and happy with the result!

[Key]

Hi Frostbite-UK

That looks a cracking job. :)

How did you fix the Cam to the screen, mines got a rubber bung on the front bracket which refuses to (attach (suck)) onto the bobbly area in front of the rear view mirror?

[Auris 1.6 vvt-i]

Its base is stuck with 3M adhesive (I've got the same one). The camera slides off the base if necessary and the base remains on the windscreen.

[Frostbite-UK]

Thanks everyone, Svetoslav is correct, the red plastic square, shown in this photo, peels off to reveal a white 3M sticky pad.
The camera is easily removed from the vehicle as it is designed like a DLSR camera shoe and slides away when the USB cable is unplugged.

There is a good review of it here: LINK

[Key]

Its base is stuck with 3M adhesive (I've got the same one). The camera slides off the base if necessary and the base remains on the windscreen.

Thanks very much :) relieved am I. I thought my spit wasn't the right type. :) If you change your car is it possible to remove the base? BTW my Cams a pig to detach from the base, not impossible but difficult. Nextbase 402G maybe I should have purchased a different one.

Thanks again :)

[Auris 1.6 vvt-i]

Its base is stuck with 3M adhesive (I've got the same one). The camera slides off the base if necessary and the base remains on the windscreen.

If you change your car is it possible to remove the base?

Already did that :)

Mine was first installed in my previous - 2008 Auris, then I sold it, scraped the base off the windscreen with a shaving blade and then used the spare 3M adhesive that came with the camera.

[Key]

Thanks very much for that Guys :)

[cviclark]

I have had a Lukas dual front and back installed for about six months and posted reviews and tips on the forum and dashcamtalk.

It came into its own last week when I hit a big pothole. Thankfully no damage but I sent the victim clips to the local council. The sound of the bang and my wife's reaction was very interesting. The clips are too big for this forum.

[cviclark]

For clips installation guides go to dash am talking forum Lukas 9700. Lots of tips fuse locations pics and clips there as most are too big to post here.

[cviclark]

Sorry folks predictive texting is getting the better of me. The link is dashcamtalk forum Lukas 7950 duo. New WiFi enabled Lukas LK-7950WD. That should find notes.

[stevecrvn]

On 11/22/2015 at 12:00 AM, Frostbite-UK said:

Finally finished the installation of my Ambarella A7LA50 dashcam, so I thought I'd post the information I gathered along the way.

Hopefully this will help someone in the future.

I was looking for a neat and tidy installation, so wanted it mounted at the top centre of the windscreen for the best view. I also wanted it hidden from general view from the inside and outside, but still easily accessible. Finally after a little playing around I decided I could fit it behind the rear view mirror whilst leaving enough space for mirror adjustment.

Next problem was getting power and having the power switched off with the ignition, I didn't want recording to continue 24/7 and flatten the battery.

I needed to tap into the cabling somehow and the upper central console looked a good source.

 

 

After a visit to a Toyota Garage for some tips in removing the light, I discovered it was just a matter of ensuring there were no bolts/screws holding it up by checking behing the light lenses (none found) and then levering the console out until the clips popped out.

 

You can see here that my unit is just held in place the four pop clips (2 blue & 2 white clips in photo).
Best method is to use a long thin plastic prise tool to lever it out, however I improvised with an ice scraper. The connecting cables are easily unplugged.

 

From eBay I purchased a 12v DC to 5v DC converter with a micro USB plug on the end, suitable for running my dashcam.

(£3.58 inc postage from a UK supplier)

 

 

and also a few wire taps and spade connectors to spur off the power from the existing cabling in the roof lining.

(£3.15 inc postage from a UK supplier) - Also known as T-Tap or ScotchLok

 

 

Using a meter and probes I found that the black and white wire was common ground/negative and a blue wire had a 12v supply which was cut with the ignition (perfect!) These wires powered my rear view mirror auto anti-dazzle, so shouldn't cause a problem tapping into that.

 

Press on the connectors onto the wires (using pliers), crimp the spade connectors onto the power adapter and plug in. Nice and easy, no soldering.

 

 

After plugging it all in and routing the USB cable down the side of the mirror trunking, it was just a simple case of popping the centre light console back.

 

 

Easy peasy, looks neat and works great!

30 minute job from start to finish (including taking photos!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi have removed the map light holder and on my Sports tourer there are not any other wires apart from the thin wires going to the light unit its self . Has any one picked up a live and a earth from another location ?

[David Lu]

Ref. Allan's installation of a dash cam in an Auris in 2015, I want to do the same in my 2016 Auris hybrid, but the "central console" with the interior lights is a bit different, with more controls, including for the sunroof and apparently for the alarm.  The two recessed holes do not appear to enclose screws. Does anyone know whether the console is still just held by pop clips, or whether there are some hidden screws holding the mounting?

It might perhaps be an option to use the auxiliary socket to power the dash cam, but I want to use this socket for other things.

[mrpj]

Whether this assembly is mounted the same as that in a Yaris I don't know. The roof/interior light assembly, in my Yaris, is held in place by spring loaded flat steel clips. These can be seen after the light lenses have been popped out. However, according to Steve, "pop" clips are probably used.

Are you not able to hardwire, using a "piggyback", into the fuse which supplies the aux. socket?