Yaris 1.3 Mmt Jerking

[Issamos]

Hi everyone,

I just bought a used yaris 2006 (41k ODO) with mmt gear. The problem is that when changing gear specially from 1st to 2nd I can feel a strong jerking and feel all the engine is moving. An other ussue is when moving from standstill and even with gentle acceleration the car jumps. Is there something with clatsh? Or it s an other issue?

I am looking for your help because the seller keep saying that it is normal.

Thank you.

[MEP's Yaris GS]

Sounds like it might be a heavily worn clutch potentially. I'm sure someone else will be along with more advise in a bit as I'm more savy with the Fiat Dualogic system, which is very similar but different.

[Cyker]

The MMT can be quite jerky, but I suspect MEP's on the right track and that the clutch needs checking; The MMT is not a 'proper' automatic - It's actually just a manual but the gears and clutch are computer controlled, so there is still a clutch plate in there that will wear out over time.

If that checks out, it may just be the MMT computer needs resetting. I was under the impression that you could just do this by disconnecting the Battery for a while, but some have said that only Toyota can do it properly.

[TomdeGuerre]

These MMT systems have a bit of a reputation for trouble as you will see on here if you type MMT in the search box at the top of the page and loook at the results you get. There really is no quick or easy answer although I'd say if you can drive a manual box then you'll probably get best results out of the MMT by driving it manually. I had one myself on an Auris.

It is definitely not like an ordinary automatic. For example if you stop at a set of traffic lights which have just changed to red and you're going to have a long wait before it's your turn again, and just sit with your foot on the brake and keep it in gear it's like sitting in a manual with your clutch pressed in all the time - same with stop and go traffic - so the clutch can get a real hard time and there's a clutch overheat light that can come on in these circumstances.

Don't know if you've done any web search, there's tons of articles about them eg http://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/toyota-multi-mode-transmission-design-and-function

http://www.blue-print.com/mmt/INF134_MMT_Clutch_Kit%20ADT330265_266_274.pdf

[Issamos]

The MMT can be quite jerky, but I suspect MEP's on the right track and that the clutch needs checking; The MMT is not a 'proper' automatic - It's actually just a manual but the gears and clutch are computer controlled, so there is still a clutch plate in there that will wear out over time.

If that checks out, it may just be the MMT computer needs resetting. I was under the impression that you could just do this by disconnecting the battery for a while, but some have said that only Toyota can do it properly.

I suspect also the clutch. In fact I feel a strong jerking whenthe car just start moving and the clutch engages. The symptoms are worst when the car is cold in the morning.

Could you tell mr how to check it.

Thanks

[MikeSh]

We have an 08 with a similar mileage. Having recently moved house it now stays outside whereas it used to be garaged and on first use of the day the clutch engagement tends to be a bit sharp and juddery. I assume it's dampness on the surfaces. Once it's done a couple of changes it is fine.

So I'd say it may be normal - these boxes do feel quite strange when you first drive them and take a bit of getting used to.

[Issamos]

Hi

Today I tried to start moving from standstill with 2nd gear engaged and it was much better and smoother. Still little juddering but not that big jerking like whith the first gear. Anyone can explain the reason.

Thanks

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[MikeSh]

Hi

Today I tried to start moving from standstill with 2nd gear engaged and it was much better and smoother. Still little juddering but not that big jerking like whith the first gear. Anyone can explain the reason.

Yes, second has less 'leverage' and will slip the clutch more , as well as giving a slower take off. That's why it can sometimes help with starting on slippery surfaces.

Downsides are of course increased wear on the clutch and slower starts.

[Issamos]

Do you think guys that I should change the clutch?

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[Devon Aygo]

Before any repair work I would suggest you have the transmission control and shift units reintialised, this involves plugging the car into Toyota's diagnostic computer and having the ECU relearn the clutch bite point and shift positions after this the car will learn your driving habits/style and adapt accordingly in the vast majority of cases this fixes most issues.

[Cyker]

Given the age of the car, if it's never had the clutch done I think it's worth doing. Might be worth getting some quotes but make sure the garage you use actually knows how to do MMTs. Toyota will do it right but they tend to charge nearly double the going rate for things like this.

[MEP's Yaris GS]

Given the age of the car, if it's never had the clutch done I think it's worth doing.

Really, I don't see why with the mileage its done. It's potentially a huge waste of money for something that probably doesn't need doing.

[Issamos]

Today I did a check with Halford auto and they think it's normal. But they suggested to visit toyota to be sure. What do you think?

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[MikeSh]

I'd be inclined to live with it for a couple of weeks. If it is still bothering you then (or gets worse) then take it to a dealer for an opinion.

[Cyker]

Given the age of the car, if it's never had the clutch done I think it's worth doing.

Really, I don't see why with the mileage its done. It's potentially a huge waste of money for something that probably doesn't need doing.

It's partly the mileage that makes me think it's worn. I mean, it's a 9 year old car with 41k on the clock; This tells me either it's been driven very rarely or it's only been doing short journeys which usually means city driving and thus a lot of start-stop traffic.

That combined with the fact we know the MMT doesn't look after the clutch very well, is why I'm thinking clutch wear.

That said, I'd go for the reset first as that is a quick and easy kludge.

I've been thinking about it a bit more tho' and it occurs to me that I don't know how it actually is for the OP and actually, the jerkiness they're talking about may just be the normal crappy jerkiness of the MMT - When I've driven MMTs in the past they have NOT been smooth shifting unless you are accelerating veeery gently, otherwise the shifts were of 'medium learner quality'. I'm reminded that the final straw that drove me to a state of eternal MMT hatred was due to an incident where it nearly caused a huge accident on a roundabout - I remember I tried to floor it onto a roundabout and the damned thing started to change gear but didn't complete it and I ended coasting out in neutral for 2 very very long seconds before it decided to engage 2nd and slammed me into the seat!

[Issamos]

Hi everyone

Problem finally solved.

Actually I went to Toyota for a diagnostic and they requested 145 pound for just checking. So i went back home and I did a maual reset for the clutch and the ECU. Now the gear is smooth and even more: the car creep forward with just the brake off.

Thank you all for your support.

[MEP's Yaris GS]

How did you do the manual reset out of interest? Is there a guide?

[TomdeGuerre]

How did you do the manual reset out of interest? Is there a guide?

Have a look at the attachment in post #4 of this thread

[Issamos]

How did you do the manual reset out of interest? Is there a guide?

Hi MEP

To do the manual reset follow these steps:

1. Ensure the ignition is switched off and the gear selector is in the ‘N’ position.

2.Use a jumper wire to connect terminals 4 and 13 of the DLC3 (the socket used to connect the diagnostic tool).

Initialize the ECU

3. Wait at least 10 seconds before turning the ignition to the ON position.

4. Pump the brake pedal at least 7 times within a 3 second period and then release it. The buzzer will sound twice with an interval of 0.25 seconds.

5. Now you are ready to initialize the ECU: Depress and hold the brake pedal down and shift the gear selector in the following sequence: (N) , (E) , (M) ,(-) , (M) , (-), (M) , (-) , (M) , (-) , (E) , (N)

6. Release the brake pedal, then press and release it once more. A buzzer will sound twice to confirm initialization of the ECU.

Initialize the clutch

7. Depress and hold the brake pedal down and shift the gear selector in the following sequence:

(N) , (E) , (M) ,(+) , (M) , (-), (M) , (+) , (M) , (-) , (E) , (N)

8. Release the brake pedal, then press and release it once more. A buzzer will sound three times to confirm initialization of the clutch.

Initialize the transmission

9. Depress and hold the brake pedal down and shift the gear selector in the following sequence:

(N) , (E) , (M) ,(-) , (M) , (-), (M) , (+) , (M) , (+) , (E) , (N)

10. Release the brake pedal, then press and release it once more. A buzzer will sound four times to confirm initialization of the transmission.

Note:If the buzzer does not sound, turn off the ignition and wait at least 15 seconds before starting the process from point 1.

11. Pump the brake pedal 3 times or more within 2 seconds. Release the brake pedal. The buzzer will sound twice with an interval of 0.25 seconds.

12. Turn the ignition switch to OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. The initialization will now be complete.

13. Disconnect the jumper wire.

14. Ensuring the gear selector is in the ‘N’ position, turn the ignition to the ON position and wait at least 40 seconds (You should hear the gear shift and selector actuator selecting gears).

15. With the brake pedal depressed, start the engine, The shift N position indicator on the dashboard should blink when the engine starts.

16. Wait at least 10 seconds. The initializing should now be complete.

Now when the vehicle is started and drive is engaged, with your foot off the brake pedal the vehicle should creep forward, this confirms the initialization has been successful.

Note: If the N position keep blinking when engaging the gear, repeat the clutch initialization.

17. The vehicle must now be road tested to allow the transmission to learn gear position and synchronization.

Drive the vehicle in the (M) manual mode and move through the gears leaving at least 2 seconds between changes.

[Elnara]

On 10/28/2015 at 12:30 PM, Issamos said:

Hi everyone,

I just bought a used yaris 2006 (41k ODO) with mmt gear. The problem is that when changing gear specially from 1st to 2nd I can feel a strong jerking and feel all the engine is moving. An other ussue is when moving from standstill and even with gentle acceleration the car jumps. Is there something with clatsh? Or it s an other issue?

I am looking for your help because the seller keep saying that it is normal.

Thank you.

Hi did you solve your car problem.I have akso same problem.Can you advise me pks.

[Abel45]

What if z manual mode is not working say M1 but wont change gear 

[Tom somerset]

I've tried the reset sequence but now the car won't start,any ideas please.

[Qazi786]

On 2/24/2021 at 4:12 PM, Abel45 said:

What if z manual mode is not working say M1 but wont change gear 

 

On 4/17/2021 at 8:22 PM, Tom somerset said:

I've tried the reset sequence but now the car won't start,any ideas please.

Scrap this rubbish car!!

[Catlover]

Personally, I wouldn’t give a MMT the time of day, trouble and a deep pocket come to mind.

[Guest]

Agreed Joe. As I've posted a few times that I did own a MMT, 2010 Yaris, for a time. I did persevere for a while but couldn't live with it. It was, sort of, worth losing money when sold. Well worth it for peace of mind and sanity though.

Two examples of many - driving up a hill no downchange at all except at the top and wouldn't chnge down manually either, emerging onto a roundabout it would stick in 1st gear (other drivers not impressed) switch to M mode and it would still refuse to change up. That required to stop, switch engine off and start from scratch. I could go on but it would become very tedious and boring!