Revs At Which Speed

[mjfaderway]

not long got a yaris 2003 d4d and the revs to me seems a little high in 5th at 70mph around 3000 is this right ? and should i have my foot to the floor to keep at this speed with just me in the car all tyres checked ?

thanks in advance

[Konrad C]

Something is not right with your car. The car is geared at roughly 26 mph per 1000 rpm. So at 70 mph your rev counter should read about 2600 rpm. I worked out figures from this site :- http://www.cars-data.com/en/toyota-yaris-1.4-d4-d-linea-sol-specs/49035

The speedo drive is fixed and the wheel/tyre size change will only effect the actual vehicle speed, not the reading. In other words at an indicated 70 mph, the car will travel faster with larger than smaller wheels.

Your post tells me that something has been changed in the past! It could be the gearbox with wrong ratios and/or final drive, the speedo drive/sensor is incorrect, or the instrument panel is not correct for the car.

You also mention that you have your foot hard on the accelerator, to maintain speed. Sympton of MAF/MAP sensor, or EGR.

A good garage will confirm everything, and if a Toyota specialist sees the car, they should know what is wrong.

When I have looked at older cars to buy (even recent models), I research the specs, and test drive a few examples if possible. Last year we tested 3 out of 4 cars (Nissan Micra), plus a Meriva(awful), and Note(looked like it was accident repair), so 6 cars in total. The Micra's varied from badly repaired accident damage, misfiring engine, to the last 2 which were both perfect.

We bought the last one as it had very low genuine mileage, and in mint condition. It also was private sale so cheaper.

Back to your car, where did you buy it from and did it state condition at sale? Any checks done before purchase?

As I said before, your post gives the impression something is not right with the car, and an 'expert' needs to view it.

[mjfaderway]

thanks for the in depth reply

been out in the car today and the speed at 70mph seems about right to what your saying i just would have thought it to be around 2000 more but then this is the oldest car ive ever owned

i have cleaned the egr value which has helped with picking up speed with less need to have my foot to the floor and ive put diesel cleaner in the fuel which has show a difference in the mpg i did the egr value on one tank of fuel and then on the next tank i used the cleaner ive also been filling up with either Shell nitro diesel or bp ultimate which we what i have found to help when buy a car that may have been run on supermarket fuel

i would like to know how to clean the maf sensor ive looked for posts but i dont know where to find it if you have a picture or can guide me that would be great

i looked at a couple of cars and this one looked to be the best 1 owner from new 95000 on the clock and always maintained the only thing i didnt get to do was drive it up to 70 as there wasn't anywhere close by

thanks for your help so far

[Cyker]

Yeah, 70mph should be about 2500-2600rpm. Would be a bit noisy except you can't hear it over the road and wind noise

The 1.4D4D is a bit unusual as it's quite high-revving for a diesel engine. Definitely likes to be revved a bit higher than the usual diesel engine :)

(My dad's old Focus TDCI ran closer to 1900rpm at 70mph! )

Other things worth checking/changing that might help:

+ Oil and Oil Filter. 0W30/5W30 is noticeably looser than the 10W40 that e.g. Opie Oils suggests, but I find you do need to keep an eye on the oil levels, esp. after a good thrash

+ Fuel Filter - Cheap, easy to get to, bit messy to change. Much easier to change than the one on the petrol Yarisusesuss! (Those ones are in the fuel tank!)

+ Air filter - Very easy to change, very cheap.

May also be worth changing the gearbox oil if that hasn't been done in a while.

MAF sensor's pretty easy - You'll need a spray can of electrical switch cleaner from somewhere (Some people use carb cleaner, but this can leave residue so is not as good an option) and the right sized screwdriver.

The MAF is a thingy about an inch square with two screws diagonally opposite each other just after the air box, and has a cable connector attached to it. I unclipped the connector (And gave it a good spray), then removed the two screws and veeery carefully lifted it out (BE VERY CAREFUL - This bit is fragile and the MAF is quite expensive to replace!), gave the little bulb and the innards a spray from several inches away as I was terrified I'd break it if I sprayed it too hard.

Let it dry out, then carefully put it back in, screwed in the screws and reconnected the cable.

(Didn't make a lick of difference to the problem I had, but it turned out this was because the throttle body port that goes to the EGR was totally blocked with soot )