aftermarket cruise control installment

[Feije]

-sorry for any bad english in advance, I'm dutch and a bit tired-

Hey everyone,
as I stated earlier I recently installed an aftermarket cruisecontrol in my 2010 manual transmission iQ.
Because I couldn't have done it without reading posts on this forum it seemed only right to put up a post of my own.
So here's a long story (took me about 4 hours) short.

Here in the Netherlands the toyota iQ was never dealer-fitted with a cruise control. I thought I wouldn't miss it, turned out I did so very much.

After looking into the matter, which means I spent a couple of nights reading up online, I decided to try to install one myself.

I bought the john gold GC90ci  with a CM5 handle for about 530 euro's. I borrowed a soldering tool from a friend. And a multimeter from another.
The unit is a little more expensive than the GC90(without the added "ci") but in the installation manual of the GC90 I read I had to solder 5 wires.
With the GC90ci I only had to solder 2. And these wires were easy to find, which I found even more important. Considering I have zero car-tinkering experience.

First i cut a piece of wire i did not have to use and practised soldering and found it to be quite easy. Just make sure all the parts are clean and heated up properly.

So following directions as set out in the post:
www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/148889-a-guide-to-removing-your-dash/    (thanks!)
I took out part of the dash on the drivers side and removed the speedometer and the steering column surround.
Following instructions of the kit I soldered a wire to the blue wire on position 1 (upper left in the picture) of the connector for the "clock" unit, which is on the left (the bigger connector).
This wire was putting out 12 Volts when the car was on (or running) and 0 (zero)  when the car was turned off completely. 
I just, very carefully as not to scratch the other wires, removed some of the plastic mantle of the blue wire, using a knife. I created a little loop at the end of the wire i had to attach.
Sqeezed them together and soldered the connection. Then put on some electrical tape.

 

After that I removed the computer. Which I found to be very difficult because i didn't know how. Once you do it isn't that hard...
First a picture I stole from the dashboard removal with the computer in red and the mounting bracket in blue.

You can undo the three bolts of the mounting plate. The following picture shows the upper clutch pedal connector in blue, one of the computer connectors in red and two very large computer connectors in green. The red one comes from underneath the dash at the steeringwheel side. In my (dutch, driverside is the left side) this red connector was the only connector connected to the front of the computer I had to disconnect in order to get the computer out of the way. As you can see it hanging down in the picture. Note the small yellowish piece of plastic on the "back end" of the computer (far end when it's installed).

What follows is a close-up of the two big connectors at the back of the computer. I used a dental mirror to figure out how to remove them.
Here's the trick: depress/press downwards the middle of the top of the grey part of the top connector. Indicated with a red arrow.

while holding it down you should be able to push the major part of the grey plastic backwards. The upper connector will come out. It's some kind of smart pivoting system so the top of the grey part will "bend" backwards about 20 degrees while the white part will come out horizontally. If it won't move check the small yellowish plastic part in the middle of the two big connectors. You've got to have it in the "down position" to remove the upper big connector and after that push it upwards to be able to remove the lower one (or vice versa).  After I got the computer out of the way I could solder a wire to the blue-pink clutch pedal wire. I used scissors to remove some of the tough black rubber protection just above the connector and then just soldered them the same way i mentioned above. 

The installment of the stalk command module was very straight forward and only required the drilling of one 10mm hole in the steering wheel cover.
The wires for the module had to be fitted into a connector. I just had to push the colored wires in the color coded connector. 
I found it slightly troubling that the installation manual did not match the wiring layout for the connector. I stuck to the color coding on the connector and it turned out to work fine.

After this the remaining wires were already fitted with connectors. With those you just can't go wrong.

I hooked everything up. Put in the speedometer and went for a test run. Didn't work. Read the kits manual. Tried to "program the throttle pedal", which, according tot the manual shouldn't be necessary, but after that everything worked fine. 

Looked for a place to put the processor. Put in behind the airbag bracket just underneath the steering column, fits snugly so I only used a small piece of double sided tape to make it stick there. Put the dash back of course.

I hope you guys find this post helpful. Let me know if it is!

With kind regards,

Feije

 

 

[Soeley]

Well done, considering you have no car tinkering experience, I think it was quite a brave first try 

Nothing wrong with your English either, you could probably teach a thing or two to some English people 

Have you got a picture of the control stick?

 

[Feije]

Above the result in my car.

http://www.johngold.nl/eng/cruise-control_eng.htm please scroll down on the page to see the command module options.

With kind regards,

Feije

 

[Soeley]

That looks quite a neat install, thanks.

[sweet-dentist]

Mine is showing cracks now... the plastic is breaking, cause you have to turn it...