Clutch Fluid

[mudinuri]

I am an absolute idiot when it comes to the mechanical side of cars, so please help me!

I want to drain the Clutch fluid and replace with new, but I don"t have a clue how to do it.

I"ve been told that the clutch fluid comes from the Brake reservoir, but others say there"s a separate reservoir for my model Rav which is a 1998 . Engine code 3S-FE  16v  Body code SXA10  Engine number 3S24161**. Can someone please clarify it for me and tell me how I go about it.

cheers

Edited May 11, 2016 by mudinuri
DIDN"T SOUND RIGHT

[crofter]

Hi David,if there is one or two reservoirs where the brake one is then that is the answer. Is the fluid " dirty" and the reason for the change or do you feel it just want to do it?

Del

[mudinuri]

Hi Crofter,

Thanks, that answers my question, only one reservoir. The reason I feel it needs changing is: I haven"t a clue when it was last done and as the car is getting on for 18 years old I thought it might never have been done before. Also it might help the usual difficulty in first gear selection.

All I need now is someone to tell me how to do it or should I leave it to the professionals? I believe there is a Self Bleeding Kit I can buy, so does this do away with the scrambling underneath the car undoing every brake bleed nipple because I am just too old to do that.

thanks again

[alan333]

I've not done a fluid change on your particular car, but the general procedure should be similar to the "scrambling under the car" you're familiar with.  There's no need to drain the old fluid, you push the new fluid along 'behind' it.

There should be a bleed nipple at the clutch operating lever, down at the gearbox.  Slacken the nipple and have an assistant press the clutch slowly, catch the old fluid as it comes out, tighten the nipple, have the assistant let the clutch out.  Repeat this until the fluid looks new.  If you want to save a bit of time/effort you can remove some of the old fluid from the reservoir before you start, using a turkey baster/syringe.  Do not allow the reservoir to become empty at any stage in the process, keep topping up regularly as necessary.

As it seems your brake and clutch fluid comes from the same reservoir it would make sense to bleed the new fluid through all 4 brakes while you're at it.

The self bleeding kits save you from requiring an assistant, but not from accessing the bleed points.  Basically they attach to the reservior and 'push' the fluid through the system under pressure, thus when you open a nipple the fluid comes out itself.  The one I used also doubled up as a larger resevoir, saving topping up constantly.

[crofter]

As an afterthought to Alan's excellent post,are you aware that brake fluid is very effective at stripping paint so watch none of it splashes anywhere other than it should and check that the new fluid has a rating of at least Dot 3 or 4 .I seem to remember the last time I did a job like that I only had to open the bleed nipple at the clutch and gravity did the rest without pushing down the pedal. I put that down to the fact that it was because it was a straight drop through a short pipe from one to the other

Del

[the fox]

no scrabbling about underneath the bleed nipple is on the top, if I remember correctly.....