Lack of power problem 2.0 d4d

[Scotto]

Hi folks,

I have a 2002 rav 4 2.0 d4d which is having a problem with losing power. Town driving is fine and it pulls perfect under acceleration with no hesitation but if I am cruising at a steady speed of around 60mph and back of the accelerator to slow down for a junction or another car, when I try to accelerate again there is no power. If I stay in 5th gear the car will completely bog down but sometimes if I change down to third and put the foot down when the revs get to 3000 the turbo kicks in hard and power is restored. When the fault occurs if I pull over and switch off the engine then leave it for a few minutes and restart the car it will drive as normal.

The engine light never comes on but when I plugged in my scan tool it did have a p1250 turbocharger malfunction fault code stored. I spoke to a toyota mechanic about this and he said it would most likely be the variable vane turbo sticking. I removed the turbo, stripped it down and freed up all the internal parts then rebuilt and refitted the turbo. At first I thought it was ok but the fault returned after a day or two. I then replaced the turbo vacuum solenoid valve with one from a breakers but no different. I have also replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the egr valve and the mac sensor with contact cleaner - still the problem persists!!

I have read lots of posts about suction control valves but the symptoms don't seem to match and there is no code relating to fuel pressure. I monitored the fuel pressure data when the fault occurs and there is no drop in pressure. It appears to be a turbo issue but I don't want to buy a new turbo and find out its no different.

Anyone had these symptoms before? Really starting to do my head in now!

[Ant-Rav]

Hi Scotto.

Having similar problem myself. Mechanic checked my turbo and is pretty sure its not the problem. Fault came up as turbo boost valve . That's what i'm told it's called. Same thing I think u have already replaced. These things apparently give a serious amount of bother when getting on in years. Hard to get in scrapyard so says a lot. I have put two of them in. The last one being the best of a bad bunch. So in theory u could prob replace it loads of times and still have same problem. That's my experience but i'm no expert.  My mechanic also said nothing to do with SCV's. I'm new to forum but have been a fan for many year's. Hello everybody.

[Scotto]

Hi Anthony, sounds like the same as mine. The problem with the turbo valve is that it came out of a wrecked rav that for all I know was having the same problem! I did notice on my one there was a pipe that was broken which seems to be just a breather as the other two pipes are the vacuum supply in to the valve and the vacuum out of the valve to the turbo actuator. From my experience with solenoid valves they normally have a breather pipe which has a round plastic filter on the end. Does your valve have this filter on it? The one I got from the scrapped rav has the breather pipe in tact but there is no filter on it so was wondering if this might be affecting it

[Scotto]

This is the valve I mean. See the large filter on the first port? Mine is not there and wonder if this might be causing it to play up

[Ant-Rav]

That pulls off and pushes back on. Its just a we rubber cap. Dust cap maybe. U most likely have bought another valve that has same problem as ur own. My mechanic is convinced that is my problem and they give bother. U can get same part on avensis and corolla d4d. That's the cars mine were taken off. Same engine - same part, the we number on side might be different tho. Mine came off 04 cars. Very expensive new.

[Ant-Rav]

Oh and yes all the ones I have do have that attached.

[ffej]

I had the same happen to me the other day towing a small trailer. At 50 mph just wouldn't pickup until I change down .pulled in the layby .gave it some revs .black smoke  .it was OK after that .I put it down to ,short trips ,and may have over filled the oil. 

[pellemoe]

I have the same problem, I have cleaned the EGR, and cleaned the turbo vanes. To me it seems that the actuator seizes up when all the vacuum tubes are connected. I tried to bypass the VSV-valve, but to no avail. I get a screeching sound when i rev the engine after reassembly, and the actuator arm is stuck because of constant vacuum in the system. When i disconnect the rubber hose going into the the VSV-valve from the unit placed below the VSV, behind the EGR. the actuator behaves normal. So my question is: what is the unit behind the EGR that is connected to the VSV by a rubber hose called? (never mind the arrow, it points to the EGR) To me, it seems like that is the unit causing all the trouble right now, in my case anyway.

[ffej]

Sorry I don't know ,hopefully someone may read this and tel! Us,I have let some oil out because I over filled it and had a clean and spray cleaner all around just hope it as gone away .I have always used Shell v power ,but I did fill 2/3times with supermarket diesel ,now using what I have left in the tank ,then back to Shell ,I will have a look in books and on line to ifi can find out .…jeff...

[ffej]

Could you take a photo of it then ask in a new topic ?

[domross]

Hi Scotto, I have exactly the same problem, although my turbo tends not to kick in until 3500 revs, also if I change down through the gears ,particularly going uphill, revs tend to remain flat...very frustrating... Thought it was the scv valves ,but reading this obviously not...does anyone have a definitive fix...that has worked...

[steve_lj]

100% turbo boost valve.

Dont waste your money buying second hand. New part is circa £200 and is is an easy five minute replacement.
 

[Ant-Rav]

Hi Steve,

Where can I buy a boost valve at approx. £200, genuine Toyota part ?. eBay ?. Toyota's parts department are charging lot more than than that. And I,d agree with u, second hand is waste of time and easily fitted.

 

 

[steve_lj]

see post no.4  for part number

part was listed on eBay @ £208 and was genuine toyota part but is currently out of stock.

PM me for sellers details if you require details.

cheers

Steve
 

[Ant-Rav]

Thank's Steve. I'll check that out.

 

 

 

 

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[ffej]

I'm still having trouble ,has any one tried cleaning inside these. Booster valves????

[steve_lj]

9 hours ago, ffej said:

I'm still having trouble ,has any one tried cleaning inside these. Booster valves????

have you replaced the valve ???

 

if not then thats your answer...........

[ffej]

okay . I have cleaned all the valve I can see ,and its  worst than  before .so I have ordered new one from eBay ,yes lads back on sale  £208

[Avalon]

Any chance it's the dreaded control ring/VV system sticking (eg how smooth is the actuator arm moving, does it stick or feel like it's got resistance?). My car's fine most of the time, occasionally when I change gear it will take 5-10 secs for the boost to kick back in and the turbo spool up. I've put it down to the variable vane/control ring being sticky due to carbon build up over the last 100k. At least I now have something else to check before things get really messy!

[steve_lj]

my guess is that ffej will report back that after fitting new boost sensor the problem is cured.......

[Big Yellow]

Hi all, I've got a 2005 MkII with, what seems, the same issue...  You say it  is an easy five minute replacement, does anyone have any instructions on how to do it?

Thanks,

 

[ffej]

don't no about that steve  I have ordered one from eBay ,but when I put 12v to the one on the car it clicks and working fine .the one above does not make any clicking which im trying to fine out the name of so I can order it .its the one with red connector   HI big yellow welcome ,  you can learn a lot from you tube (it is a 5min job when you ve had it off and on a few times)  best of luck  ..........................

[steve_lj]

how come you took all that off rather than just the boost valve itself - 2 x 10mm bolts ??

the fitting with red connector is not the boost valve - 

[ffej]

I took it off like that so I could check them with a 12v .so do you know what it is called ?when I have the ignition  on without the engine running they both buzz  

[Ant-Rav]

On ‎6‎/‎28‎/‎2016 at 0:33 PM, Ant-Rav said:

Big Yellow,

 If it is definitely the sensor that is the cause of ur problem and a computer should confirm that,( make sure first ) there are two small bolts to loosen, the electrical supply plug to pull off, and two small rubber tubes to pull off which must go back on the new unit exactly the same as they came off the old one. Not to be switched around. I fitted second hand part myself easily. But as Steve rightly said second hand is a waste of time, ur buying the same problem. Have ordered new part also, and hopefully it will cure my problem. I bought two second hand . The last one as I said is the best of all three that I have. Jeep does not lose power nearly as often with it fitted as it did with the other two, so would lead me to believe this is the source of my problem.

 

 

 

 

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