So, should I buy an old 'un?

[missionary]

Its time to give up my leased car and look for something  with plenty of life left in it that will be low cost to run - and all for less than 3k .

Although past 65 I am self employed and work daily driving 12 - 14 K a year. My trips are about 50-60 miles in total, mostly on the rural roads of  the northern home counties with just occasional dual carriageways and odd forays on the M25.

My missus can only drive an auto which complicates matters.

I prefer a diesel but the sort of high miler I have to buy would generally be near the danger zone of renewing turbo/piezo injectors/EGR/DPF etc etc.  Also an automatic will likely be  a DSG type box which all appear to need a re-build after 70k.

But I am advised that the petrol Avensis and Mazda 3 both use more longer lived slush boxes  with very few problems even until towards 150k miles.

I am also advised that these cars use petrol engines that can achieve upper 30s/40 mpg. With the bonus that they are far simpler than diesels and go on with little attention till towards 150k.

I am warned about the oil burning issue and am told that a 1.8 made after July 2005 would have the better engine. But if I found a good lower mileage example with the older engine, would its oil use be a problem?

I need some room in the back but a hatchback will do. (An estate may be heavier on fuel?).

Naturally I would look at a 1 or 2 owner car with full service history with even maybe a dealer warranty thrown in (I see they are out there).

As an experienced diesel and hydraulic equipment engineer I know about the oily bits and am not seeking general tips on car buying - I have had plenty of vehicles in my time and maintained and repaired all myself.

So what do you keen Avensis owners think about this proposed purchase?

TIA

m

 

 

 

[thom1983]

Hi missionary, I had the same dilemma as you 6 months ago and bought a 2007 1.8 petrol avensis for 2500. It'd done 102k when I bought it in December and has now done 120k without issue (other than a wheel bearing). I too do a lot of rural driving and if you don't hammer it I'm getting 46mpg and that's based on actual usage not what the computer says (although this is never far out). There's no rattles or squeaks, feels like a much younger car and I've seen them advertised with over 350k miles on them with the 1.8 engine (what I've got). Easy to service too...did mine on the drive in an hour and cost less than 40 quid in bits.

Good cars, can't fault it

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Konrad C]

I would stay under 10 years for the 1ZZ engine. The car has be exceptional to be older. There needs to be full service history and the owner can genuinely prove the engine is not burning oil!  Also regular oil changes.

If you go older, the diesel 1CD is popular, but not available in auto. You have read about the AD diesels and the head gasket issues? Not all suffered, but you need make sure you don't end up with a bad one. Avoid the most powerful 180 version of the 2AD engine. The 126bhp 1AD is the safest.

Hope you find your near perfect Avensis.  

 

[missionary]

Gentlemen, thank you for your quick responses.

I have more-or-less decided that I can't go for a diesel at the sort of mileage my price range will afford. (Much as I loved my old 1HZ in my LandCruiser).

Thom, is yours an auto too ?

m

[thom1983]

Gentlemen, thank you for your quick responses.

I have more-or-less decided that I can't go for a diesel at the sort of mileage my price range will afford. (Much as I loved my old 1HZ in my LandCruiser).

Thom, is yours an auto too ?

m

Hi mine is a manual

[alan333]

My 55 plate 1.8vvti auto did about 36mpg, where my 05 plate 1.8vvti manual did mid 40's mpg. Both were good cars, although both had a rattle from the engine when cold, but didn't use any oil. The 55 plate had a hum which sounded like a wheel bearing, although I never found the fault over 2 MOT's.  I changed tyres but the noise persisted, so listen out for it in case it's a thing with the auto box.  It was most prevalent about 50-60mph.

The manual felt nippier, and the auto felt sluggish at motorway speeds, although it could keep up ok.  I owned the 05 for 2.5 years, and the 55 for just over a year.  Apart from sevicing the cars cost me nothing to maintain.

If I were to buy one again I'd go for a facelift (06 on) to ensure I was clear of the oil burning problems.

[missionary]

Thom and Alan, thank you.

One thing I have been wrong on, is that - after reading a thread here from 2012 - I see that the slushbox was used for the D4D and the petrol is a CVT. The expert who advised me was not so well informed.

Now, I have no problem with CVT - I once had a Volvo 340 (ex DAF), and way back in the 60's my first 'vehicle' was a DKW/Auto Union/Manhurin 'Hobby' scooter which also had a CVT drive. A belt which regularly came to grief probably due to my bulk rather than anything else.

I am aware of the modern steel link version of CVT, but am naturally curious as to its reliability and mileage for its first overhaul - i.e. if I look at a 90+k miler will it normally have had a transmission overhaul by then?

I can cope with consumption in the mid to high 30's, and reading elsewhere, I see that at times the CVT is considered more efficient than a TC transmission.

Or should I start a new thread about the transmission for more help I wonder.

All help is very much appreciated.

[alan333]

The auto box in my 55 plate wasn't a cvt, although I agree it seems to be called different things depending on where you read about it.  Mine drove just like a traditional auto, ie it 'crept', you could feel it change gears, it had kickdown, and it locked up in top gear.  

I've driven a wide range of autos on and off for the last 30 odd years, including cvt boxes in Volvos and the T27 Avensis in my current profile, plus semi autos in Toyota and Citroen, plus dual clutch offerings from VAG etc, to the Mazda 6 auto I currently own, plus the 12 speed semi auto boxes fitted to the current Scania and Daf 44 ton trucks.  Honestly...the box in my T25 was fine.  A bit underpowered, but it drive fine.  I've can't think of reading many problems with the T25 auto either, except the odd broken cable.

Hope this helps :)

[missionary]

Thanks Alan, I will re-visit that thread and try to determine which boxes were fitted and when .

I have similar experiences of auto boxes, and perhaps the best I owned was that on a Mitsi Grandis, but the petrol it used was just too much, a lovely car though. Since 2013 I have had a SEAT Altea XL fitted with a DSG, and now at 40k its starting to feel a little jerky , though they say they are shot at 70k anyway. But that car now has to go back to SEAT.

I am reassured by your comments though, thank you.

I am still scanning Autotrader and eBay for a suitable candidate. I will consider any offer of a straight deal by any private owners too.

m

[alan333]

On 24 May 2016 at 8:50 AM, missionary said:

 from 2012 - I see that the slushbox was used for the D4D and the petrol is a CVT

The T27 petrol from 2009 on is a CVT

[missionary]

Right, thank you Alan, that will be out of my price range unfortunately.

m

[+robster+]

id get an import hiace auto mpv type for that budget something like this

https://www.gumtree.com/p/toyota/1997-toyota-hiace-/1171222818

[+robster+]

or if you want to stay low budget old school reliable bargain you could get a very decent diesel automatic previa or estima mini mpv, these are not the nicest things but very practical and you can remove or revolve rear seats to suit your leisure or work duties

[missionary]

Robbie, thanks for both.

I think the 3 litre import is too much of a beast for me.

The Previa/Estima options are interesting and I have been taking a look at what is on the market. But there is no auto diesel listed for the Previa unfortunately.

By the way, does anyone know the VIN for the Avensis mid 2005 engine modification and possibly engine type number please? TIA

m

[Konrad C]

To  be really sure about buying an Avensis with the upgraded engine, buy the face lift version that has repeat indicators on the wing mirrors. 

Lee (Devon Aygo) made a comment that may help - 

He states 1.8 ZZT251 July 2005 - chassis number  E129522.

That was a lot of searches to find it, plus I responded to that too!

[missionary]

Konrad, thank you so much for your care in finding this for me, and what a good thread it is too. Though I see the question on engine numbers does not appear to have been answered !

But I am now a lot better informed, thank you.

 

m

[missionary]

Sorry, perhaps I should have asked this before.

But when looking over a used 1.8 car's history, is there any way of knowing if it has the modification to the engine, other than by a dealer worksheet/invoice?

An extra stamp in the service book  maybe ?

m

 

[Cyker]

It's a new engine so there should be documentation, new VIN, mileage reset in the MOT chain etc.

Could also ask a dealer if you have the registration, I assume they'd have records

 

[FROSTYBALLS]

If it is a warranty repair, any documentation is the manufacturer's audit trail to support the warranty claim. Usually no documentation is provided to the customer - this is my experience across a number of manufacturers, not just Toyota. The same applies to recalls - usually the only documentation the customer has is the recall notification. The service book is usually annotated only where there has been a replacement odometer.

The manufacturer's dealer network will have a record of what warranty work has been undertaken.