Pulse and Glide in the new Yaris

[vicent_yaris]

Hello. I am new to this forum.

I am planning to buy a Yaris HSD 2016. I've read a lot about how to save fuel by the 'pulse & glide' method. In the case of a Prius, for instance, I've even seen 'optimal speed values', but haven't found anything similar for Yaris. I mean: when to do 'pulse', for how long, at which speeds...??

Where can I found such an information for Yaris?

Thank you in advance.

[Anthony Poli]

Hi there,

We have a 2013 Yaris and a 2010 Auris in the family. They are slightly different, but not too much.

I would first get used to the car first and then experiment with pulse and glide, using cruise control  can be an alternative.

The thing to get used  is the fact you don't need much pressure on the accelerator, to maintain your speed. once you get to the speed, gradually back off just before it starts to slow down.

Going up hill is always negative for mpg, but sooner or later you will be going back down again and you can make up for going up hill.

Just like a normal car, if you drive with a heavy foot, then you will struggle to get those higher mpg figures.

 

 

[bathtub tom]

Not a practice I'd recommend on public roads unless you want to thoroughly pee off drivers behind you. I used it once on an unobserved economy run in an Austin Maxi back in the '70s and got 90MPG. On that occasion I had an excellent navigator who helped me by reading the contour lines on an OS map for maximum benefit.

[Peter S]

All I do is get up to speed fairly quickly and then reduce the throttle until the EV lite comes on. The you have to keep the power meter in the first half of the economy section to stay in EV mode. Up to 30 mph this is easy to do on the flat and up to 40 mph on a slight down hill. Over 40 and the EV mode will not come in even with no throttle.

[Anthony Poli]

You will get the feel for it, even if you wear safety boots like i do for work ;-)

[YarisHybrid2016]

The "glide" part is most useful if you're approaching a roundabout or road junction, or going downhill.

This will make more sense when you get the vehicle, but in normal driving, when you lift all the way off the accelerator, the power needle drops slightly into the blue area (regenerative braking). This happens whether you're braking or not, as the car has a very low internal resistance, so it emulates drivetrain drag by using a small amount of regenerative braking.

Between the blue and green region is the white idle line. If you very very lightly press the accelerator so the power needle is on the white line, the car will roll on for a very long time, but using little to no power.

Depending on terrain and road conditions, I've found the car is running best (seemingly least power to maintain speed) at:

22 MPH (Battery power only)

30-40 MPH (Battery only, but depends on terrain, especially as you reach 40 MPH)

43 MPH (using ICE)

53-60 MPH (depends on terrain, but on level ground, 53 MPH works well)

Depending on terrain and traffic, it can be best to accelerate enough that the ICE starts to assist acceleration, then feather the accelerator to trigger EV mode.

It takes some time to figure out how to get the best out of it, but you'll get there!

If you're buying new, don't expect it to give the best figures for several thousand miles. My car was quite slow and needed gentle handling in the beginning. Observe the running-in instructions, as it will determine the longevity of the vehicle in the long run.

For the first 1000 miles I did not drive faster than 50 MPH on A roads, and 60 MPH on dual carridgeways or motorways (I went back to 50 MPH when able).

When starting a journey, the car will seem very slow. Don't push it hard. After about 10-15 minutes of driving it will feel a bit "looser". My car has 10000 miles on it now, and I'm still observing that it is slower when cold (much more noticeable than with other vehicles I've owned). It is not a problem!

For my specific vehicle, I don't think I will see best MPG for another 10000 miles. It is much freer than when it was first purchased, but I'm seeing improvements all the time.

I have also observed that the car is totally incapable of best MPG until about ***10 minutes*** after starting driving. This appears to be a time-based restriction in the ECU. After this time, I see the best economy. It is related to engine warm-up.

If you do get one, I'm sure you will love it! I'm never going back to a conventional car!

[Anthony Poli]

2 hours ago, YarisHybrid2016 said:

The "glide" part is most useful if you're approaching a roundabout or road junction, or going downhill.

This will make more sense when you get the vehicle, but in normal driving, when you lift all the way off the accelerator, the power needle drops slightly into the blue area (regenerative braking). This happens whether you're braking or not, as the car has a very low internal resistance, so it emulates drivetrain drag by using a small amount of regenerative braking.

Between the blue and green region is the white idle line. If you very very lightly press the accelerator so the power needle is on the white line, the car will roll on for a very long time, but using little to no power.

Depending on terrain and road conditions, I've found the car is running best (seemingly least power to maintain speed) at:

22 MPH (battery power only)

30-40 MPH (battery only, but depends on terrain, especially as you reach 40 MPH)

43 MPH (using ICE)

53-60 MPH (depends on terrain, but on level ground, 53 MPH works well)

Depending on terrain and traffic, it can be best to accelerate enough that the ICE starts to assist acceleration, then feather the accelerator to trigger EV mode.

It takes some time to figure out how to get the best out of it, but you'll get there!

If you're buying new, don't expect it to give the best figures for several thousand miles. My car was quite slow and needed gentle handling in the beginning. Observe the running-in instructions, as it will determine the longevity of the vehicle in the long run.

For the first 1000 miles I did not drive faster than 50 MPH on A roads, and 60 MPH on dual carridgeways or motorways (I went back to 50 MPH when able).

When starting a journey, the car will seem very slow. Don't push it hard. After about 10-15 minutes of driving it will feel a bit "looser". My car has 10000 miles on it now, and I'm still observing that it is slower when cold (much more noticeable than with other vehicles I've owned). It is not a problem!

For my specific vehicle, I don't think I will see best MPG for another 10000 miles. It is much freer than when it was first purchased, but I'm seeing improvements all the time.

I have also observed that the car is totally incapable of best MPG until about ***10 minutes*** after starting driving. This appears to be a time-based restriction in the ECU. After this time, I see the best economy. It is related to engine warm-up.

If you do get one, I'm sure you will love it! I'm never going back to a conventional car!

I wouldn't say the mpg the is bad for the time it takes to get the engine upto temp, compared to my previous car. Mpg is always lower in winter than summer in my case, the trip to work is 8 minutes, 3.5 miles. The big difference is when i am stuck in traffic, no motion = no fuel consumed, but still no good when your late.

The only thing that would persuade me away from another hybrid is all electric, but that ain't going to happen anytime soon.

 

[YarisHybrid2016]

Agreed - the MPG during warm-up is still very good! I just noticed that the VERY good MPG can't be attained at the start of the journey, regardless of what you do.

When I was shopping around I was tempted by the Leaf, but when I discovered its range, it fell off the list immediately. I hear the update brings the range to I think 120 miles, but still too short for my needs (250+ and it starts to get my attention).

Assuming poor MPG from the Yaris (hard acceleration everywhere, driving at 70 MPH on the motorway) I get around 48-52 MPG. Assuming 48 MPG (and the range seems to be based upon that figure) I should get 370 miles out of a tank at worst. Electric cars have a way to go yet (unless you can afford a Tesla). That said, the Tesla 3 sounds promising!

[Anthony Poli]

Yes a tesla, but only if there is a supercharger near me.

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[Anthony Poli]

Yes a tesla, but only if there is a supercharger near me.

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In the mean time, I'll just have to eek out more from my hybrid ;-)

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