Oil change Avensis Mk3 1.8

[Konrad C]

Ever since I have owned a car, I have done my own oil service. This is the first time I have done an oil change with my current car. It was last done July 2015 before I owned the car.

I did some research and bought the oil filter removal tool - 

The other problem was getting the correct oil (0w-20) which is quite expensive. I bought my oil from Euro car parts at £30 plus the oil filter.

My earlier post below mentions the "wrong" grade by some of the major sellers. 

My drive is raised about 1.5ft above the ground level of my house, so I can access the under side without using ramps or jacks and stands. The under tray hatch is secured by three push fasteners - same as on the engine covering. Just push the centre of the fastener in, then pull the the outer to remove. Very easy.   

 

Old filter and gasket.

Oil filter housing with new gasket plus the new oil.

Sump plug before draining.

Location of the oil filter under the car.

Note the additional new fibre washer on the sump plug. The new filter also came with a smaller plastic attachment and seal for a different type of fitting. These were not needed.

When everything was replaced, tightened and checked again, I reset the fasteners by pushing the centres out, then placing them with position after closing the under tray hatch. Press the centres home to secure the fasteners.

Then refill the engine with the new oil.  

The key point is, Toyota saw fit to add the hatch to the under tray, instead of having to remove the whole lot, like other cars. That is a major time saving point!

The only thing I may need to do in the future is the auxiliary belt. When I last checked it, the belt was fine. Probably get a spare. 

[bobabobajob]

Konrad. Can you please tell me the exact brand and part number of the filter removal tool. I have one that should fit but fouls on the engine block where it is very close to the filter cap. I've read other reviews of tools where they have had to cut out part of the tool to make it fit. Just drained the oil and couldn't get filter cap off so put old oil back in for now.

Cheers

Steve 

[SAM LOVERS HER TOYOTAS]

Adding my 50 cents guys, we bought an oil filter cup that looks very similar, ours is a Laser brand and was a perfect fit, purchased it at Parkers, on a Sunday morning, last 1 in stock, and saved our day as my other half had already drained the oil without thinking about any special tools required for the oil filter, never forget that morning! 

[bobabobajob]

Thanks Sam. I've got this Sealey one- Sealey VS7112 Ø64.5mm Oil Filter Cap Wrench 14 Flutes - Lexus/Toyota. I'll get the Laser one instead and give it a go.

 

[bobabobajob]

Although a review for the Laser tool on Amazon for someone using it on a T27 said he had to cut the tool to make it fit 🙄

[paul9]

I got a cheap one from China on eBay. I couldn't get the filter removed without it. The only problem was that it jammed on, solid. It's still on there now! 😂 At least my filter changes are easy now.

[Konrad C]

13 hours ago, bobabobajob said:

Konrad. Can you please tell me the exact brand and part number of the filter removal tool. I have one that should fit but fouls on the engine block where it is very close to the filter cap. I've read other reviews of tools where they have had to cut out part of the tool to make it fit. Just drained the oil and couldn't get filter cap off so put old oil back in for now.

Cheers

Steve 

I got it from eBay 4 years ago. I was not any brand in particular and is perfect fit to the filter canister. eBay only retains records so far back so cannot give exact price. 

Here is my first post on tools for the T27 - 

 

[bobabobajob]

Good idea Paul. Sounds like an ideal solution 😁

I've ordered another one now which I hope will fit. It looks slimmer anyway. Wish i had an elevated drive like yours Konrad. Would make things a lot quicker.

 

[Gerg]

On 7/17/2016 at 1:09 PM, Konrad C said:

My drive is raised about 1.5ft above the ground level of my house,

Konrad, at the risk of revealing your secrets, would you be good enough to elaborate on how this raised drive that you mentioned actually works? 

It sounds an interesting and unusual way to get underneath a car. Was it your design?  (Oops, this is looking like a thread hijack.) 

Ta, in advance! 

[Konrad C]

On 1/7/2020 at 5:52 PM, bobabobajob said:

Konrad. Can you please tell me the exact brand and part number of the filter removal tool. I have one that should fit but fouls on the engine block where it is very close to the filter cap. I've read other reviews of tools where they have had to cut out part of the tool to make it fit. Just drained the oil and couldn't get filter cap off so put old oil back in for now.

Cheers

Steve 

My house is about 35 cm ( 14 in) below the road level, and the drive is level. There is a support wall to the drive. I drive the car front in on to the drive. I have bricks and wood to stop the wheels going beyond. The cars front overhang gives me the access I need to get under. I built the drive with some help, back in 2002. It is wide enough to fit two cars. The car is normally reversed in unless I am servicing the car or other cars.

[bobabobajob]

Silver Sealey was too big. Although fluted part was ok size wise, the outer rim fouled on the sump. Black DEDC branded one worked fine. It just engaged on the fluted part of the filter cap and didn't engage with the lugs further down but was okay. Use d 0W/20 Toyota oil off eBay for £35. Noted that previous services at Toyota garage by previous owners had used 5W/30. Not sure it makes much difference unless I'm driving in the Arctic.

[Konrad C]

12 hours ago, bobabobajob said:

Silver Sealey was too big. Although fluted part was ok size wise, the outer rim fouled on the sump. Black DEDC branded one worked fine. It just engaged on the fluted part of the filter cap and didn't engage with the lugs further down but was okay. Use d 0W/20 Toyota oil off ebay for £35. Noted that previous services at Toyota garage by previous owners had used 5W/30. Not sure it makes much difference unless I'm driving in the Arctic.

The Sealey silver filter removal tool is not the correct tool, but the black DEDC looks spot on! Before I bought the tool, I did a lot of research, and got what I thought was the most compatible version. I would also say that the Laser 5160 oil filter wrench is the correct version - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/laser-5160-oil-filter-wrench-for-1800cc-20/?da=1&TC=GS-040815160&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgebwBRDnARIsAE3eZjTPrAe87w6UwPJ7_MGnCSaUveaXf27EvoTH7DGTlBbaRBVRYi-_LNUaAia-EALw_wcB
Here is an example of different sellers. Ignore the fact they are on Amazon or eBay. 
Correct design similar to the one I have or DEDC - https://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-Filter-Wrench-Removal-Corrola/dp/B0752F4L21/ref=asc_df_B0752F4L21/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226613731662&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4622162643823686587&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-719227544798&psc=1
Incorrect or inconsistent seller/version that I wouldn't buy -  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153166288864
With that particular seller, the photos showed two different items. I don't trust the seller sending the correct tool!
Another example of the correct version showing the filter wrench and the filter housing - https://www.wish.com/product/582ad68fde59d44548f149ce?hide_login_modal=true&from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=GB&_force_currency_code=GBP&pid=googleadwords_int&c={campaignId}&ad_cid=582ad68fde59d44548f149ce&ad_cc=GB&ad_curr=GBP&ad_price=4.00&campaign_id=6493229882&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgebwBRDnARIsAE3eZjTxEUB5vGZ56nHDJyGbXsIgbg9mRbkC6SfyYD9QCiz3GaDE6bBOa2IaAlCqEALw_wcB

Since I bought my tool over 4 years, I don't seem to have a record of where I bought it from. It also fitted a friends Prius 2 which is the older canister version. 

With the info I have show above, it is important to get the correct tool before starting work. If you have already drained the oil, one can still refill with new oil, and apparently change the filter later! Look at this video -  

Hope this helps. 
  

[Gerg]

I have the exact one that is in the 2nd link Konrad mentions above.

This one:-

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-Filter-Wrench-Removal-Corrola/dp/B0752F4L21/ref=asc_df_B0752F4L21/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=226613731662&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4622162643823686587&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-719227544798&psc=1&tag=autoclubinte-21

It is very light, I have only used it once, on an Auris as it happens, it did fit ok, and it did the job.  But I would have some reservations about it if it was used on an over-tightened filter that some others have reported.  I would be more confident with a weightier tool, perhaps in steel, but then that would cost much more!

[Stivino]

I’ve got the aluminium/silver Sealey tool in the picture, it fit my Avensis perfectly.

[bobabobajob]

Diesel or Petrol. Mines a Petrol. I know some of the Blueprint ones say they are only for the Avensis diesel.

[Shavestick]

My 2010 1.8 which I acquired in July 2019 have a full main dealer history. I asked the nice lady at the service counter to print me the service record and not even once in 10 years did they put anything but 5W30.

I am due the next annual service in the summer this year, should I insist on 0w20?

[bobabobajob]

I'm don't have the knowledge to answer that question. I'm pretty sure it has been covered on this forum before though if you search. I chose 0w/20 simply because i thought it might be more fuel efficient during the winter

[mrfixer]

11 hours ago, Shavestick said:

My 2010 1.8 which I acquired in July 2019 have a full main dealer history. I asked the nice lady at the service counter to print me the service record and not even once in 10 years did they put anything but 5W30.

I am due the next annual service in the summer this year, should I insist on 0w20?

People do get very hung up over oil grades....

The reason 0W20 oils have become commonplace is that they absorb less energy within the engine than a heavier grade like a 5W30. This results in slightly better fuel economy and low CO2 emissions. Obviously manufacturers want to show the best economy and lowest emissions during EU certification.  Regulations require that the manufacturer 'recommends' the same oil to the customer as was used during certification. Therefore Toyota must recommend 0W20.

Mechanically there is no reason you cannot use a 5W30. Its only a few percent difference in operating viscosity and would make a couple of percent difference on fuel economy. 

[yossarian247]

2 hours ago, mrfixer said:

People do get very hung up over oil grades....

The reason 0W20 oils have become commonplace is that they absorb less energy within the engine than a heavier grade like a 5W30. This results in slightly better fuel economy and low CO2 emissions. Obviously manufacturers want to show the best economy and lowest emissions during EU certification.  Regulations require that the manufacturer 'recommends' the same oil to the customer as was used during certification. Therefore Toyota must recommend 0W20.

Mechanically there is no reason you cannot use a 5W30. Its only a few percent difference in operating viscosity and would make a couple of percent difference on fuel economy. 

Agreed, and my Auris 1.6 Valvematic was filled with nothing but 5W30 for the first 100k or so of it's life with no apparent engine wear or ill effects. I've started using 0W20 in it recently as I can get it at a good price on eBay and it does give very very slightly better MPG, but it is minimal.

I also notice a very slight increase in oil consumption with 0W20 compared to 5W30 but again it is minimal.  Not enough to worry about in either case, and not enough to ever need topping up between 10000 mile oil changes.

[Konrad C]

22 hours ago, yossarian247 said:

Agreed, and my Auris 1.6 Valvematic was filled with nothing but 5W30 for the first 100k or so of it's life with no apparent engine wear or ill effects. I've started using 0W20 in it recently as I can get it at a good price on ebay and it does give very very slightly better MPG, but it is minimal.

I also notice a very slight increase in oil consumption with 0W20 compared to 5W30 but again it is minimal.  Not enough to worry about in either case, and not enough to ever need topping up between 10000 mile oil changes.

Nick, slightly off topic, I was looking at the Auris Touring Sport as an alternative to my Avensis 1.8 Valvematic TR Touring Sport, is the gear ratio similar? At 70 mph the revs are at 2500 rpm. Quite relaxed and with cruise control. What is your revs showing at a similar speed. I sure I asked this question before. 
With the oil, I am a bit of a stickler, when it comes to oil grade, and so long as the oil is high quality full synthetic it shouldn't really make much difference. I just like to stick to the preferred grade. I might switch to 5W30, if costs and oil consumption become a factor. To date, the car has not needed much of a top up with any of the fluids, except petrol and washer fluid.  

[yossarian247]

2 hours ago, Konrad C said:

Nick, slightly off topic, I was looking at the Auris Touring Sport as an alternative to my Avensis 1.8 Valvematic TR Touring Sport, is the gear ratio similar? At 70 mph the revs are at 2500 rpm. Quite relaxed and with cruise control. What is your revs showing at a similar speed. I sure I asked this question before. 
With the oil, I am a bit of a stickler, when it comes to oil grade, and so long as the oil is high quality full synthetic it shouldn't really make much difference. I just like to stick to the preferred grade. I might switch to 5W30, if costs and oil consumption become a factor. To date, the car has not needed much of a top up with any of the fluids, except petrol and washer fluid.  

Hi Konrad,

The Auris 1.6 6 speed is a bit lower geared than that by the sound of it. From memory 70 MPH is about 2750-2800 rpm but I'll check on the way home later! I can't say I really notice any engine noise at motorway speeds. You are more aware of general road and wind noise in the Auris than our Avensis, but then my Auris is an early mk1 hatch. I've not driven a later Auris Touring, it may be improved. 

[yossarian247]

Right, it is in fact at 2900 rpm at an indicated 70 mph, so slightly lower geared than I was thinking. The Auris still manages to be a more refined motorway cruiser than the Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDi I used to own though. 

[Konrad C]

13 hours ago, yossarian247 said:

Right, it is in fact at 2900 rpm at an indicated 70 mph, so slightly lower geared than I was thinking. The Auris still manages to be a more refined motorway cruiser than the Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDi I used to own though. 

That figure is closer to my old Mk1 - 3000 rpm at 70 mph, and that was 5 speed. If fact it is the same for 5th gear in my Valvematic. The 7A-FE was also very refined with a high muted tone. In fact the road roar was louder! Still great economy from any of these cars. When it comes to servicing, very straightforward for me.   

[yossarian247]

On 1/15/2020 at 8:10 AM, Konrad C said:

That figure is closer to my old Mk1 - 3000 rpm at 70 mph, and that was 5 speed. If fact it is the same for 5th gear in my Valvematic. The 7A-FE was also very refined with a high muted tone. In fact the road roar was louder! Still great economy from any of these cars. When it comes to servicing, very straightforward for me.   

Yes, the first time I DIY-serviced the Auris I was pleasantly surprised how generally easy it is to do routine maintenance on.

[MrAurisT]

On 1/13/2020 at 7:40 AM, mrfixer said:

People do get very hung up over oil grades....

The reason 0W20 oils have become commonplace is that they absorb less energy within the engine than a heavier grade like a 5W30. This results in slightly better fuel economy and low CO2 emissions. Obviously manufacturers want to show the best economy and lowest emissions during EU certification.  Regulations require that the manufacturer 'recommends' the same oil to the customer as was used during certification. Therefore Toyota must recommend 0W20.

Mechanically there is no reason you cannot use a 5W30. Its only a few percent difference in operating viscosity and would make a couple of percent difference on fuel economy. 

I agree. I came to do an oil/filter service today and researched it beforehand. My car (before I owned it) had a full main dealer service history and they ALWAYS used 5/30w, the printouts I had from them show this clearly. When I went on the Toyota online store, I enquired about the correct oil for my car and they pointed me in the direction of the oil on the link below. £105!!!!! I wrote back suggesting they should ride around on horseback shouting 'stand and deliver' with a mask on, using the name ***** Turpin (I didn't get a reply surprisingly). I then spoke to a fabulous company I have used before called Westway Lubricants, who stated that they supply an oil which is spot on for the Avensis engine (labelled a Ford oil, but has all the right ingredients for the Avensis) for £25.99. So, my advice would be shop around, don't get too hung up on the viscosity, 0/20 or 5/30 are absolutely fine. The nice man from Westway stated that as long as it meets A5/B5 specs., then you won't go far wrong.  As with the service, other than the filter housing putting up a bit of a fight to get it off, straightforward. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323925271297?hash=item4b6b736301:g:CYgAAOSw-e9ivCxH

https://www.westwayoils.co.uk/products/ford-5w30-fully-synthetic-engine-oil-m2c913-fmc?variant=37927572701372