1993 Paseo Intermittent start problem over many months now no start problem

[93PaseoOwnerMan]

Over the past 9 months or so I have been able to start my 1993 Toyota Paseo on the 3rd or more turn of the key. When I turned the key it would never start on the first try, just a click but after several tries it would always start eventually... on 3rd try, then 4th, then.... and recently it took maybe 100 tries and now it won't start at all. What I've done/tried:

- replaced head gasket

- replaced harmonic balancer (fly-by-night/crook craigslist mechanics stripped the crankshaft and left a broken harmonic balancer on which came off and I had to fix it myself, even had to rethread the crankshaft... now okay)

- replaced starter ( (fly-by-night/crook craigslist mechanics took my money for a starter but that was not the problem)

- replaced ignition switch ( (fly-by-night/crook craigslist mechanics took my money for an ignition switch but that was not the problem and they overcharged me for the ignition switch and lost the old one but the ignition switch was not the problem)

- rewired the radiator fan with an independent fuse, relay and switch mounted inside the car (had been hardwired before improperly)

- replaced/swapped Battery (not the problem)

- replaced spark plug wires (not the problem)

- replaced ignition coil inside the distributor (not the problem)

- replaced the ignitor (not the problem)

 

Can anyone give me some troubleshooting ideas?

[93PaseoOwnerMan]

Apparently there is no start relay in the 1993 Toyota Paseo, 1.5L automatic... There is a park/neutral switch which I took out, cleaned and re-installed. The car started up again after several tries but then reverted to the same situation where I try many 10s of times to start without success. Even put out $36+ for a new park/neutral switch, installed it today and ruled that out as the problem as I still can't start the car.

I plan to pick up a new condenser/capacitor for the distributor and try that this week.

Anybody got any other troubleshooting ideas?

[TomdeGuerre]

Hi Marin, sounds like quite a complicated situation. How sure are you about the replacements you've done or had done by a mechanic? Are you sure of the starter motor? 

I am assuming you have checked all the simple stuff like Battery terminal cleanliness and security. Also assuming your ignition switch is working OK.

A. Any fault codes generated? OBD1 port under the bonnet, jump terminals E1 and TE1, the check engine light will start flashing a series of short and long flashes to give code. If light just flashes regularly with no short / long flashes then there are no fault codes.

B. Massive air leak in the inlet manifold side (may be cracked manifold, leaking gasket or perished / disconnected hose(s). But this would also give you idle speed problems. 

C. Fuel leaking away overnight (possibly even back to tank so no external leak shows) leaving filter empty and requiring fuel pump to fill and prime the system. 

D. Faulty coolant temperature sensor not bringing on cold start injection.

E. Try using an aerosol of start fluid to see if engine starts from cold, this would tend to confirm one of the above.

F. Do you have an earth strap running from the engine to the chassis? Check to see if cable is broken or poor connection. This can cause poor cold starting but OK when hot.

G. When you pick up the condenser for the distributor get a new radio noise suppressor at the same time and fit that. I have known isolated cases of faulty radio suppressors causing ignition problems.  

 

 

[93PaseoOwnerMan]

Thanks Tom... I didn't try all your suggestions  yet (see commentary below) but today I replaced the distributor condenser with a new one. I have attached some photos of the old one here:

 

 

 

...but any "aha! finally my problems are over!" was soon met with disappointment as I tried to start the car again to no avail.

 

>A. Any fault codes generated? OBD1 port under the bonnet, jump terminals E1 and TE1, the check engine light will start flashing a series >of short and long flashes to give code. If light just flashes regularly with no short / long flashes then there are no fault codes.

didn't try yet... will try to get it done tomorrow...

>B. Massive air leak in the inlet manifold side (may be cracked manifold, leaking gasket or perished / disconnected hose(s). But this would >also give you idle speed problems. 

don't see anything like this here... but not yet sure...

>C. Fuel leaking away overnight (possibly even back to tank so no external leak shows) leaving filter empty and requiring fuel pump to fill >and prime the system.

don't think so due to the intermittency... if I manage to get it started now it is unlikely to start again without 10s of tries... not sure on this one yet 

>D. Faulty coolant temperature sensor not bringing on cold start injection.

I will try to look at this right away... need to locate and test... where do I find and how should I test this sensor?

>E. Try using an aerosol of start fluid to see if engine starts from cold, this would tend to confirm one of the above.

don't have any start fluid but will try to pick some up... to where should I apply it?

>F. Do you have an earth strap running from the engine to the chassis? Check to see if cable is broken or poor connection. This can cause >poor cold starting but OK when hot.

I see one ground wire from engine to chassis and it appears to be solid and clean.

>G. When you pick up the condenser for the distributor get a new radio noise suppressor at the same time and fit that. I have known

>isolateed cases of faulty radio suppressors causing ignition problems.  

I couldn't find what that part would be and where to install it...

 

 

 

[TomdeGuerre]

Looking at the state of that condenser I wonder about the general condition of the electrics on your car. That terminal is badly corroded and what is that lump (solder?) on the condenser body? Anything which looked like that should have been changed long ago. So if someone has been bodging around the electrics who knows what else they have done. 

Your replacement starter – was it a new/rebuilt unit or just a second hand one?
    
Same with your Battery, have you had its capacity checked by a garage or shop with proper equipment, you can’t tell anything about its capacity just by using a volt meter.   

How fast does the starter turn the engine over? You need to get somewhere at least 200 – 250 rpm. Automatics can be more sluggish to turn over than manuals, don’t know offhand whether your car requires a different starter since it’s auto.

Have you ever tried taking out the spark plugs after you’ve tried to start it for a while? Be handy to know whether the plugs are soaking in fuel or still quite dry.

Coolant temperature sensor test is a resistance test using a Digital Multi Meter with readings taken over the hot and cold range. Resistance is higher when cold and reduces when hot. Plenty of videos on the web for you to look at.

Aerosol of start fluid should be sprayed into the air cleaner intake. Careful you don’t use too much and lock up the engine on compression stroke.