Alternative Front Droplink bushes for Mark 1 Yaris

[Madasafish]

The "replace the front drop link bushes for the front anti roll bar " happens every 4 years or so on our D4D.

So instead of using the original type, I decided to fit the unofficial alternative - Mark 1 Ford Focus rear anti roll bar bushes. MUCH easier to fit, a perfect fit and appear much sturdier. Went out for a drive and much better than our prior ones - which were hopelessly split. 

Much cheaper as well - about £10 for both sides - versus £15 per  each side.  *There are various details of how to do it but it's fairly obvious. 

[Doug888]

On 04/08/2016 at 6:46 AM, Madasafish said:

The "replace the front drop link bushes for the front anti roll bar " happens every 4 years or so on our D4D.

So instead of using the original type, I decided to fit the unofficial alternative - Mark 1 Ford Focus rear anti roll bar bushes. MUCH easier to fit, a perfect fit and appear much sturdier. Went out for a drive and much better than our prior ones - which were hopelessly split. 

Much cheaper as well - about £10 for both sides - versus £15 per  each side.  *There are various details of how to do it but it's fairly obvious. 

Hi

Just joined up here having recently acquired a 2004 1.3 and noticed the drop link bushes are in a poor state.

I saw your post about the Focus bushes and wondered if these are the ones you are referring to?

Thanks

[Yaris420]

I ha a focus mk1 98 my. Had well over 100k and was on it's original rear droplinks. Obviously less stress on the rear axle but still better than OEM. Why not go for poly ones next time?

[Madasafish]

19 hours ago, Doug888 said:

Hi

Just joined up here having recently acquired a 2004 1.3 and noticed the drop link bushes are in a poor state.

I saw your post about the Focus bushes and wondered if these are the ones you are referring to?

Thanks

Yes those are the ones...  you need an extra washer - I used the ones from the previous set..

[Doug888]

Thanks, i'll give it a go.

[Cyker]

Do you need to take the ARB off to drop the bolt it in from the top or can you slide it in from the bottom without the bolt protruding?

The Toyota ones are nice as the bolt has nuts at both ends.

The poly ones I bought have a thicker, longer bolt and I couldn't reuse the old one, and because it's longer I had to drop it in from the top or the bolt would protude and hit the axle.

(Even loosening the ARB is a pain in the ****!)

[Madasafish]

10 hours ago, Cyker said:

Do you need to take the ARB off to drop the bolt it in from the top or can you slide it in from the bottom without the bolt protruding?

The Toyota ones are nice as the bolt has nuts at both ends.

The poly ones I bought have a thicker, longer bolt and I couldn't reuse the old one, and because it's longer I had to drop it in from the top or the bolt would protude and hit the axle.

(Even loosening the ARB is a pain in the ****!)

No.

You can insert the bolt from the top... I fiddled around jacking up both sides of the car to raise and lower the end of the ARB . Bit fiddly but eminently doable. The second side was easier :-)

Ideally you need two jacks and axle stands and jack up under the suspension arm to compress/decompress the spring..

[Madasafish]

Update some 16 months later.

 

The Focus bushes failed.

So now replacing them with OE Toyota bushes from eBay...http://tinyurl.com/yazbw8db

 

Will update when they fail..

 

(Our local roads are full of speedhumps and potholes coupled with raised mini roundabouts (! Spawn of the devil) and the extra weight of a diesel engine (vs petrol) means the front suspension takes a hammering..)

[Cyker]

Do you want my poly ones? I found a spare set when I was clearing out parts for my *sob* now gone D4D.

They are considerably firmer but practically indestructible; They're just a bit of a pain in the **** to fit because the bolt is longer than thicker and you have to undo the ARB to move it out the way to drop the bolts it in from the top or the threaded end protudes too much and hits the axle.

[Madasafish]

22 hours ago, Cyker said:

Do you want my poly ones? I found a spare set when I was clearing out parts for my *sob* now gone D4D.

They are considerably firmer but practically indestructible; They're just a bit of a pain in the **** to fit because the bolt is longer than thicker and you have to undo the ARB to move it out the way to drop the bolts it in from the top or the threaded end protudes too much and hits the axle.
 

Thanks for the offer but I have already ordered new ones. Offer to anyone or sell on eBay?  

[Cyker]

Well you could keep them in reserve for when you need to change them again in a couple years! :P

[Doug888]

Hi, not got round to fitting my Focus ones yet.

How did yours fail? Was it the plastic cylindrical part?

[Madasafish]

On 12/18/2017 at 11:12 AM, Madasafish said:

Update some 16 months later.

 

The Focus bushes failed.

So now replacing them with OE Toyota bushes from Ebay...http://tinyurl.com/yazbw8db

 

Will update when they fail..

 

(Our local roads are full of speedhumps and potholes coupled with raised mini roundabouts (! Spawn of the devil) and the extra weight of a diesel engine (vs petrol) means the front suspension takes a hammering..)

OE ones failed. After 3 years.

[Yaristotle]

Thanks for the very useful update. I was interested to read this thread as I had this issue raised through two MOT advisories a couple of months ago:

Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement Nearside Front [5.3.4(a)(i)]

  "       "     "       "         "   "      "        "      "      "        "          "        "               "           Offside          "   [5.3.4(a)(i)]

I shall look to replace these within the next two or three months but there are a few questions I would like resolved if possible. The previous posts deal specifically with the drop-links whereas the guy below on YouTube deals in the first place with replacing the actual anti-roll bar bushes. For some reason MOT advisories refer to “linkage pin or bush”. It would be more helpful if the specific part requiring attention was itemised but presumably replacing both items will remedy whatever was referenced. The chap in the video does mention in his replying comments that he was aware of the ARB knocking so knew that it was necessary to change the bushes. In contrast, I do not have any such noise but if changing the links it would seem wise to do the bushes as well.

Also, I noticed that there are a slew of drop-links available on eBay for between £10-15 per pair presumably of unknown quality:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=yaris+droplink&_sacat=0

Alternatively, they are available from Toyota online but these are priced at £22.56 per item (who the hell buys just one of these?) so £45 for the pair. Presumably these would be the better purchase? I have not been able to locate any of the poly versions but perhaps they are no longer available?

http://www.ebaystores.co.uk/ToyotaOfficialStore?_fsub=4563088012&_nkw=Yaris+anti-roll+bar+drop+links&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1

So, a couple of questions:

1. Would it advisable to squirt some WD40 onto the existing drop-links some time before attempting the task so as to make removal easier? I do not have an air-powered reciprocating saw like the guy in the video should removal become complicated, though do have an electric type if necessary.

2. The video chap said in his comments that the MOT inspector advised him that the links required to be tightened more. So is it necessary to use some verniers and measure the amount of thread on each side of the nuts before taking the original end links off?

Thanks for any advice.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuBs0PhSwuw

 

 

[Madasafish]

Yes WD40 will aid removal. Preferably applied 24 hours in advance to allow it to penetrate the crud.

I have NEVER had to resort to cutting anything to remove old droplinks.

 

I just tighten the nuts up so there is NO freeplay in the joints  - rubber to suspension.

 

The simplest removal method is: 

 

I use that method.

 

I have just bought these as a direct set of repalcement bushes  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Yaris-MK1-1-4-D-4D-Genuine-Febi-PROKIT-Front-Drop-Link-Anti-Roll-Bar-ARB/362051213220?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

A reputable maker  £17 for two bushes (price is for one)

[Yaristotle]

Thanks for the link. As they are for the D4D model are the drop-links any more substantial than those for the standard Yaris? – you mention upthread about the extra weight of the diesel engine. They look like a good bet in anycase. (I think Febi is the same as Blueprint, which usually is held in high regard).

Have you needed to change the bushes where ARB connects (via the horseshoe bracket) to the subframe?

[Madasafish]

ARB links are the same for all models.

 

(Springs are not, nor is front suspension wishbone, ....don't ask me how I know!)

[flash22]

Febi are half decent quality, ideally you need to tighten them up when the wheel/lower arm is at its standard ride height, worn ARB bushes can knock out droplinks

Fensport do some different style droplinks

https://www.fensport.co.uk/collections/toyota-yaris-1-4-diesel-nlp10-10-01-04-06/products/front-anti-roll-bar-link-yaris-all-models-06

 

[Madasafish]

Thanks: Febi are the ones I have purchased.

[Yaristotle]

17 hours ago, flash22 said:

Febi are half decent quality, ideally you need to tighten them up when the wheel/lower arm is at its standard ride height, worn ARB bushes can knock out droplinks

Fensport do some different style droplinks

https://www.fensport.co.uk/collections/toyota-yaris-1-4-diesel-nlp10-10-01-04-06/products/front-anti-roll-bar-link-yaris-all-models-06

 

Thanks for the extra link. To my eyes they do not look much different from other droplinks that I have seen, though the Febis are not shown assembled.