cam chain replacement on 2005

[minimayhem]

Hi all,

I'm doing a mate a favour this weekend and am going to attempt a cam chain replacement on his 2005 Yaris.  It's a 1.0L 16v VVTI engine.

Any tips or anything I need to look out for? First time attempting this job.  I bought a kit off eBay which consists of 2 guides, the tensioner, cam and crank sprocket and timing chain.

Not first time working on a Toyota though as I own a mk3 mr2.  Never had any problems working on that car (apart from the !Removed! heat shield), so I'm hoping with the front positioned engine things will go well.

I cant seem to find a service manual however, as the ones hosted on this forum are now dead links.

Thanks!

[Madasafish]

You will need a jack and engine stand as you need to remove the engine mouting.

You will need a device to lock the crankshaft  when trying to release the retaining bolt. (Google it - I made my own - steel bar plus bolts)

 

You will need a decent socket to fit the crankshaft bolt and a great big extension bar. It can be VERY tight...

 

The correctly specified mating surfaces (sump/timing cover) gunk (Gray .Halfords sell it)

A new cover for the camshaft cover - which also prevents oil going down the plug holes and is probably worn or you will tear it when removing it.

 A decent inspection light..

 

Most of work is done under the wheel arch so jack up as high as you can.

I can honestly say I did it but did not enjoy it (too old:-)

.

 

 

 

[minimayhem]

13 minutes ago, Madasafish said:

You will need a jack and engine stand as you need to remove the engine mouting.

You will need a device to lock the crankshaft  when trying to release the retaining bolt. (Google it - I made my own - steel bar plus bolts)

 

You will need a decent socket to fit the crankshaft bolt and a great big extension bar. It can be VERY tight...

 

The correctly specified mating surfaces (sump/timing cover) gunk (Gray .Halfords sell it)

A new cover for the camshaft cover - which also prevents oil going down the plug holes and is probably worn or you will tear it when removing it.

 A decent inspection light..

 

Most of work is done under the wheel arch so jack up as high as you can.

I can honestly say I did it but did not enjoy it (too old:-)

.

 

 

 

Thanks Madasafish.  Thankfully I have a couple of trolley jacks, no engine stand though - just axle stands.  Depending on the size of the bolt, I have some good quality 6 point sockets that should do the trick.  Do you remember the size? 

The engine will be in the car so shouldnt' I just be able to leave the car in 1st gear, handbrake on and try and undo that way?

Sealant wise I was going to use loctite 5980.  I used it for the valve covers on my crossfire, has excellent oil resistance properties. 

 

Camshaft cover I'll buy, thanks for the tip! Looks like I'm going to have to buy a haynes manual for this car as I have no sodding idea how to change a cam chain.

[TomdeGuerre]

re loosening the crankshaft pulley bolt, I've never found it much good to put the car in gear with the handbrake on, there;s still too much give in it to let you get the sharp shock it needs to loosen it. If you don't have an air gun or electric impact tool you might want to look at the adapters you can buy on fleabay for a lot of cars that lock the engine by means of the flywheel ring gear. If there's no access plate to allow you might have to remove the starter. You can usually shock it loose by putting a socket and breaker bar, or spanner, on the bolt head then pressing the starter so the tool spins round til it hits a solid like a chassis member or something inexpensive but you still need to lock it when tightening up.    

[alan333]

A while ago I had a timing chain changed on a Ssangyong Musso.  The diesel fuel injection specialist did it by turning the engine (by hand) until the chain 'joining link' was accessible from the top (at the camshaft), then undoing the link and attaching one end of it to the new chain, then turning the engine by hand, thus the old chain wound the new one into place as it went, ie no need to touch the crank.  Obviously the tensioner needed slackened/removed first.  Perhaps you could do similar?

[minimayhem]

That is a !Removed! good idea.  First call will be to try that idea, nice one Alan!
Guys I'm sorry to ask this, but I'm really struggling to find an approprate cam locking tool for this Yaris.  Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I have no impact/air tools, I'll also be working on the car with no access to power as they are on holiday.  The lucky sod owes me many, many alcoholic beverages if I manage to fix it :)

[Madasafish]

Alan's idea is fine BUT the Yaris chain  comes assembled .. it is a multipart (as in 6-7 chains)  chain . There e was no obvious joining link. The stresses are very high.. But with the chain tensioner undone, it is easily replaced.

 

You do not need a cam locking tool...There are timing marks.  Buy a Haynes manual : it lays it all out in graphic detail.

[Mcdee]

Hie guys i have a toyota belta with an 1kr engine a 3cylinder. I want to remove the timming chain cover or the front cover. Coz i need to replace timing chain my Question is do i need to remove the whole engine in order to to access the chain. Coz the cover has the strainer which goes into the sump. 

Please help if there is a shorter way to. 

Thanks in advance. 

[jonquirk]

I recently replaced the timing chain on my Diesel Yaris. I used a universal pulley/sprocket holder tool to stop the pulley turning. I set the handle so that it was resting against the driveshaft thus leaving both hands free for the long bar on the nut.