Paddy The Corolla - 1998 1.3 E11 3-Door

[mickburkesnr]

Cheers @Ant182, I will when this thing splutters to life.

I took the starter motor to a local garage - the place I was taking it for it's MOT today actually - and the starter is fine. So I can tick that off the list.

I refitted it, cleaned all the contacts on it, and the ground from the negative wire which goes to the gearbox, and the Battery terminals. Tried the new Battery, and the old Battery, it still just gives a click while the lights on the dash dim.

I then take out the spark plugs, they smell like petrol, so petrol was getting in to the chambers. I tried to move the engine by hand without the plugs - it wouldn't move. 

Thats where I am at the moment, so I'm leaving it today. Not really in the mood for this rubbish today so I'll attack it tomorrow when I've got more of a fresh mind about things.

[mickburkesnr]

Put this question up on another forum, and because I can't actually move the engine by hand it's pointing to something stopping the engine from moving. So do you know what that means?

The gearbox comes out for a third time! This time though I'm going to use an engine crane, I was buying one anyway for the next project but I'll just buy it this week or next week and smash the job then.

[tooSavvy]

LOCK UP...... I was trembling to put words up on the forum.

I Feel Your Pain m8

ATB

2sav

[mickburkesnr]

Ok so I've done an investigation, and the issue (I think) is the plate between the engine and the gearbox. When the starter motor is removed, the engine then turns by hand. I think the plate itself slipped down, so it's pushing the starter motor down on to the flywheel as there is witness marks on the tip of the starter motor where it's hitting the flywheel.

I've removed the bolts from the gearbox and separated them to try and move the plate with no luck. So I can either drop the gearbox, take the clutch off, and the flywheel, to then unscrew this plate and move it and then see if I've done it right by putting it all back together again. Or, I can dremmel the bit of the plate that's preventing the starter motor from sitting properly, move it up and attach it using the RTV gasket stuff I used for the oil sump so I still maintain the gap between the motor and the gearbox.

Don't think it'd surprise anyone if I say I'm going to try the latter option tomorrow. But yeah, it's how the starter is fitting to the gearbox which is seizing the engine, so this will at least mean the car can start.

[oldcodger]

Hi Mick,

Bit puzzled by this "plate" thing in the way, certainly no such part on my later model, that I remember.

Wonder if its part of the clutch cover  thats catching,  if its either the wrong part or its been positioned incorrectly on the flywheel ( if possible)  ?

[mickburkesnr]

On 5/26/2019 at 4:45 PM, oldcodger said:

Hi Mick,

Bit puzzled by this "plate" thing in the way, certainly no such part on my later model, that I remember.

Wonder if its part of the clutch cover  thats catching,  if its either the wrong part or its been positioned incorrectly on the flywheel ( if possible)  ?

It's a 1mm/2mm steel plate that bolts on to the engine and from what I've read on other sites about different engines is that it's used to locate the starter. Yours probably does have it?

Anyway, spent the whole of bank holiday monday dropping the gearbox out, realigned this plate, put it back together and Paddy spluttered in to life on the first go - with the help of a Battery booster anyway!

Got to refit the subframe properly but I'll do that tomorrow. I'll book it in for an MOT for Saturday as well. 

[mickburkesnr]

Driveshafts were refitted tonight, subframe bolted on, everything but the wheels and the splash guards under the car are now on there. So I started the car and after a shaky start it idled alright and the temperature gauge went from cold to halfway - and never in the 15 minutes the engine was on did the fan kick in. Saw some steam, like a wet patch on the radiator under the radiator cap. I didn't take it off because I didn't fancy getting burnt. Now yesterday I noticed some coolant on the floor, but that was because I didn't screw the cap back on properly so part of me thinks the wet bit is from yesterday. 

But yeah, it's a bit odd that the fan didn't kick in at the halfway point isn't it?

[oldcodger]

Though a different engine, if mine was run for 15 mins, static, then the fan wold not come on, even in the garage.

If the gauge went up more to the ten to position I would be concerned if it had not come on.

Can you follow the actual engine temps with a live diag code reader on your model ?

[mickburkesnr]

8 hours ago, oldcodger said:

Though a different engine, if mine was run for 15 mins, static, then the fan wold not come on, even in the garage.

If the gauge went up more to the ten to position I would be concerned if it had not come on.

Can you follow the actual engine temps with a live diag code reader on your model ?

Nope, it doesn't have OBD2, only the diagnostic port in the engine bay which (I think) is OBD1. In fairness the car was up on jacks, the bonnet up so plenty of air was going to it so it would probably keep the temps down. Plus the top water pipe was hot so I know the thermostat is working, or at least failing open so that's not too bad.

I'll book it in for the MOT so it'll have a good run. Like I said, the temperature gauge didn't go above half way (and I know from the time I drove it without coolant that the gauge can go further than that!) so the run will at least give it a good test.

Quite excited to drive it now!

[mickburkesnr]

Champagne is on ice, as it were. While I was sorting out the boot lid (in terms of paint) I let the car run. Again, the fan didn't kick in, so I checked the gauge and it was near the red. So the engine was turned off after that.

I had a look at what could be wrong. I don't think the relay is blown, the fuse isn't blown, and there's no damage that I could see. So I unplugged the temperature sensor from where it sits in the thermostat housing and the cooling fan kicked in. So I'm going to have to change that. On the flipside I'm missing a wheel nut, so I'm going to go to Toyota tomorrow on my lunch break and see if they have a sensor (doubtful) and get a wheel nut.

[oldcodger]

Seems plenty of temp sensors around for £5 - £30  from the usual places, though who knows what Mr.T wants ?

Thought you had the MOT booked for Sat,  my local Mr.T always has to order everything in for next weekday delivery.

[mickburkesnr]

11 hours ago, oldcodger said:

Seems plenty of temp sensors around for £5 - £30  from the usual places, though who knows what Mr.T wants ?

Thought you had the MOT booked for Sat,  my local Mr.T always has to order everything in for next weekday delivery.

Yeah I have it booked in for Saturday, but I've another car that needs an MOT anyway so I'll just swap them around and bring the other one instead. I could just unplug the sensor and drive it and have the fan on all the time but then that'd cause problems with the emissions I would think - as the ECU wouldn't know how hot or cold the engine was.

Ordered one off eBay this morning anyway. Either way I wouldn't get it until next week even if I went to Mr.T. Will go to a breakers tomorrow and get some proper alloy wheel nuts as well.

[tooSavvy]

.... Don't forget [check angle first!] FORD alloy sleeve nuts are 10apenny & yards usually overflowing with them.

BOL on MOT

2sav

[tooSavvy]

....... So, howda MOT go 🤔

2sav

[mickburkesnr]

9 hours ago, tooSavvy said:

....... So, howda MOT go 🤔

2sav

Funny you should ask that! It didn't. Ran out of time due to the rain and a wedding I had at the weekend. But, yesterday I did a few things.

I had ordered some bolts from Amazon for the car just to see what they're like. I've fitted them to the front but not the rear. I fitted a rouge bolt to the lower bell housing on the engine side as well. But yesterday the car was dropped off the jacks, and then this happened:

The eagle eyed amongst you will notice that the car is no longer on axle stands. The more eagle eyed amongst you will notice that the car is facing the other way. Once I took the stands from under it, I drove it 200 yards down the road and back again. The furthest it's been driven in 2 years. And it was nice! Not at all far enough to enjoy it, but long enough to know if there's anything majorly wrong with it. There is a knock under the drivers feet which is from the suspension bolt I struggled to tighten, and the drivers side wiper goes off the screen. But the brakes, after the new master cylinder, stops as it should I think. The discs are obviously rusty, the pads and discs are brand new, so they need to be bedded in. But all in all, for what it's worth, it's moving and mechanically alright. It's ready for an MOT.

I'm awaiting a new rear number plate as the old one broke off (and it's funny, you'll see why soon). Once that comes, which I think it'll be today, I'll fit it and drop it to the garage where I was going to get it MOT'ed. I'm going to get them to give it a check, basically check my homework essentially, and have them sort out the suspension bolt. With all the work I've done, I feel good that (at the moment at least) that's the only job I've outsourced.

But I'm happy, not so happy at the clear up I've got to do now emptying the car and sorting out the garage as it's become a tip again, but it's just a bit of paper away from being driven every day!

[mickburkesnr]

The car is booked in for a check and an MOT tomorrow afternoon. I've told them that the wishbone bolt needs tightening and just to give it a check. But last night I drove it a little further and that really is the only knock I can hear and it's under me where the bolt was a bit troublesome.

The number plate came in the post today, the guys did a grand job on it. The wife is less impressed with her tribute however...

[mickburkesnr]

Well, here is Paddy outside the MOT station:

And here is the MOT fail sheet.

It failed on emissions, down to the lambda. The nearside rear has some play, but after discussing it with the tester we think it's the top mount, so I need to tighten them up. The emissions though really, really annoyed me. I think the threshold is 1.03, and the lowest it got was either 1.04 or 1.05. The traffic was bad round there so I was revving the hell out of it in traffic but no joy. And it also has near enough a full tank of VPower in it.

From speaking to a mate, high lambda readings mean either too much air at the intake or along the exhaust. He has a proper lift so I'm going to take it to him, then put it in for an MOT again. Maybe tomorrow, but more than likely next week.

Aside from all of that, it drives like a new car. The ride is firmer like a new car, possibly too firm, as there is a knock at the front although all of the suspension is tight as a drum. From reading up on it, it seems like harder poly bushes (which on the front are, racing ones) they can tend to knock a little. Steering feels heavy, but then again the power steering fluid is darker than Guinness so that'll want changing at some point. But he goes, and he stops, and he sounds good. Not chav loud, but there's a good rumble from it.

Dissappointed that it didn't pass, especially on something that isn't dangerous, but my homework was marked and a few loose nuts isn't a bad first project.

[Bernard Foy]

You’re almost there Mick, keep ‘er 🔥 lit.

[Ant182]

So close now mick, it will all come good 👍 The car looks great with white on white wheels combo too 👍 

[mickburkesnr]

Ok so an update on this.

After posting it on friday, I spoke to a mate and he said he was getting his MOT done on the Saturday in Birmingham (so about 14 miles from the house), so I headed down there on a mix of roads (fast and slow) and it passed on emissions - just. But the previous MOT guys had failed to spot a leak on the brake line, so that was picked up but sorted out. Anyway, it has a full MOT and the cleanest MOT it's had in over 10 years.

I've done 130 miles on it over the weekend, and this morning driving in to work. I've driven it in the soaking wet, and in the bone dry. I've driven it around town, in the country, and on dual carriageways. It's great to be behind the wheel of it again. The car is pinpoint in the turn ins, doesn't oversteer doesn't understeer. I can go around a roundabout at 30mph and it have acres of grip and the car is planted and balanced. Suspension is a lot firmer especially on the rear because of the new shocks.

Only issues are that cone air filter has to go, I need to get the exhaust welded together, and there is an odd knock from the suspension on the drivers side. The air filter does nothing, if anything it's made the car feel completely gutless. The exhaust is also blowing at the join. But when you have like a foot of space under the car and no lift it's going to happen. The knock itself is strange because in the two MOT tests the suspension is solid. There is no play at all on the front or underneath. I may try to tighten the top mounts just to make sure they're tight, as everything under is sorted.

I've got to drive it to work all week, so I'll find out more about it that way.

[mickburkesnr]

Successful first day commuting! On the way home I stopped off at the petrol station and used their jet wash, only the lance not the mop, and got 2 years worth of crud and dirt off of the car. Also a close up of the wheel in situ.

I then hit some of the grey primer bits with a rattle can. Only a temporary thing to keep the wife happy (although, in fairness, scrapping the car would make her the most happy - fat chance!). But it's the first time I've stood back and looked at the car since, well I can't remember. I'm quite chuffed really with what I've got, and it's no where near finished but the idea I had in my head is 90% there really.

I've ordered two 13cm 3-way Pioneer Speakers and two 10cm 3-way Pioneer Speakers which are going to come this week, and I'll fit them over the weekend. They'll match the Pioneer head unit I bought at the weekend (as the JVC unit I had from the Subaru doesn't have DAB, I thought it did). And it'll all match the Pioneer AV stuff I have in the house - I think Pioneer might be my favourite AV brand!

[oldcodger]

Hi Mick,

Re your knocking, could be the door hinges or the pin that holds the strap in, if used.  ?

Bit scary if your first mot station did not find a brake fluid leak, though could that have happened as a result of you  driving around since that test.

Fitted Pioneers Speakers in mine, such an improvement I did not need to change the head unit.  Mine came with separate tweeters which I mounted in the wing mirror access covers, really lifts the soundstage.

 

 

[mickburkesnr]

On 6/17/2019 at 9:06 PM, oldcodger said:

Hi Mick,

Re your knocking, could be the door hinges or the pin that holds the strap in, if used.  ?

Bit scary if your first mot station did not find a brake fluid leak, though could that have happened as a result of you  driving around since that test.

Fitted Pioneers speakers in mine, such an improvement I did not need to change the head unit.  Mine came with separate tweeters which I mounted in the wing mirror access covers, really lifts the soundstage.

It's not the hinges, it's definitely something under the car. The suspension is tight and doesn't happen over every bump. Only thing I can think of is the exhaust banging against the subframe under the driver.

Well when it was spotted I was with my friend and he went mental at me about it. I told him I had bled the brakes myself (the sister in law bless her was pumping the pedal while I was at the wheel) and I said it wasn't leaking them. So yeah it was probably a result of being driven more than sloppy work and/or sloppy MOT'ing. 200 miles in to it though as of this morning and the brake light hasn't come back on.

The Pioneers are coming today, but I probably won't fit them until Sunday at the earliest although it'll probably be the weekend after before I touch it.

One good bit of news is that I thought I would only be able to use this as a daily up until January 2020, as Birmingham were bringing in that clean air zone and I didn't fancy paying £8 a day to drive to work. It's been pushed back to July 2020 at the earliest. So I will be dailying it for a year up until I get the Lada working, and that's a project where I'm glad I got a 6 month extension on.

[tooSavvy]

Knock on..... Bootfloor

Since my flexi/downpipe was replaced [again/warranty] I have that >> not too often/damn annoying 'tokk' >> coming up from somewhere '.... out there' 🤔

When I cobbled up my VW T4 back box mod, a lot of tweaking was needed to stop the pipe hitting the rear multi link... It goes through the spiders web - rather than looping under, like a Corolla.

When it stops raining..... another session with Uclamp spanners beckons.

2sav

[mickburkesnr]

2 hours ago, tooSavvy said:

Knock on..... Bootfloor

Since my flexi/downpipe was replaced [again/warranty] I have that >> not too often/damn annoying 'tokk' >> coming up from somewhere '.... out there' 🤔

When I cobbled up my VW T4 back box mod, a lot of tweaking was needed to stop the pipe hitting the rear multi link... It goes through the spiders web - rather than looping under, like a Corolla.

When it stops raining..... another session with Uclamp spanners beckons.

2sav

I know there's a part of the exhaust mount that I fixed with a cable tie. It's just odd, as I told both MOT testers about it and they both checked it with a crowbar etc and it was all tight. So the only thing I can think of is the exhaust. Which, I said previously, I'm going to get someone to fettle. It needs an inch removed from the pipe running to the back box which will bring it in line with the tunnel. And then, maybe, a hanger welded to the car just to make it secure. I mean, it's secure anyway, but more for peace of mind than anything.