Auris Hybrid 2011 MPG

[Terry North East]

Hi,

I recently bought a Toyota Auris Hybrid (2011) on the understanding it had great fuel economy.

Since buying the car I have only been hitting an average of 47pmg which I feel is not what I was advised by the Sales Person (approved Toyota Dealer).

I have tried various ways of driving the car and I am still getting this MPG.  My personal opinion is that the Battery is not very efficient or the Battery is not kicking in when it should.

The reason I think this is because if I leave the Battery overnight I lose a significant amount of charge, and when I am on the motorway when the battery does kick in (downhill or low gradient) it literally kicks in for 1-2 seconds (even when in cruise control).

What I need to know is are these figures correct (mis sold) or should they be higher (fault with hybrid system).

Any advice much appreciated.

TIA

[FROSTYBALLS]

Legally any salesperson is only allowed to quote the official EU fuel consumption figures for any car they sell. The EU fuel consumption figures, as they are obtained using a laboratory testing regime, don't represent what an owner may obtain in real life. The figures are only meant to provide a standard comparison tool between models.

[DarrenM]

Depends on loads of variables.

I can get an average of 47 MPG from my 2015 Auris hybrid if I:

* have the tyres less than 40 PSI

* have a Roof Rack or something else non-aerodynamic

* drive 70 MPH +

* keep extra weight in the car

It's all physics really. Keep it slow, light and aerodynamic and you'll get the figures. Above 50 you're just on the atkinson cycle engine so if you're not getting the MPG there then you're looking at engine servicing more than EV side.

[Terry North East]

Mos of my driving is Motorway between 60-70

I use the eco mode and set in cruise control when I hit speed.

My car is always empty

Do you think I should be getting more than high 40's based on that?  I just want to know whether I have a case with the dealer?

Thanks for you feedback

[DarrenM]

I'm not sure about the 2011 model but with mine I get 60-65 with mostly motorway driving at 60 mph. 47 does seem low.

[FROSTYBALLS]

If the dealer has quoted the EU official fuel consumption figures, which are the only figures they are supposed to quote, then, NO, you don't have a case against the dealer.

[Terry North East]

The dealer basically said I should be hitting 60mpg minimum when I explained my daily commute.

The official combined MPG is 70 so this goes against what you are saying right?

Thanks

[Parts-King]

I have had lots of various Hybrids and currently run an Auris Hybrid Tourer. I was getting 62 MPG in the summer with higher ambient temperatures, but am currently getting just 57. Ambient air temperature is a big factor with Hybrids.

Please don't take offence but one of biggest factors is driving style and the type of driving you do. There is a style to driving a Hybrid that you need to get used to, and that is not putting in ECO and running on EV, but to let the car decide what is best, accelerate to the speed you want then lift off the gas, feathering the throttle, keep an eye on that fuel indicator to see how you are doing, you will be surprised the difference it makes. 47 Is low, I bet you could improve it by that "lifting" the throttle technique and anticipating the traffic ahead of you. I have never dropped below 55 even with snow on the ground. One other point, or is it two? Engine oil and tyres. You should have 0w 20 oil and LLR tyres, if either have been changed then that will lower your MPG, but driving style and the type of driving you do is the biggest factor

Kingo  

[Terry North East]

6 minutes ago, Parts-King said:

I have had lots of various Hybrids and currently run an Auris Hybrid Tourer. I was getting 62 MPG in the summer with higher ambient temperatures, but am currently getting just 57. Ambient air temperature is a big factor with Hybrids.

Please don't take offence but one of biggest factors is driving style and the type of driving you do. There is a style to driving a Hybrid that you need to get used to, and that is not putting in ECO and running on EV, but to let the car decide what is best, accelerate to the speed you want then lift off the gas, feathering the throttle, keep an eye on that fuel indicator to see how you are doing, you will be surprised the difference it makes. 47 Is low, I bet you could improve it by that "lifting" the throttle technique and anticipating the traffic ahead of you. I have never dropped below 55 even with snow on the ground. One other point, or is it two? Engine oil and tyres. You should have 0w 20 oil and LLR tyres, if either have been changed then that will lower your MPG, but driving style and the type of driving you do is the biggest factor

Kingo  

Thanks for this.

If I run in normal mode is 'cruise control' not an efficient tool to use in the cars?

What is wrong with eco mode also please?

I suppose I am expecting the car computer system to know what is best.  Having said that I have also tried the approach you mention and I never really see the Battery kick in.

Thanks

[Parts-King]

Others find cruise control effecient, on a hybrid, I don't think its efficient whatsoever. When you come to an incline the engine is screaming, how is that efficient? 

Yes ECO is fine, all it does is dull the throttle response, I was confusing it with EV for a second, sorry. 

What do you mean "see the Battery kick in?" 

[Terry North East]

5 minutes ago, Parts-King said:

Others find cruise control effecient, on a hybrid, I don't think its efficient whatsoever. When you come to an incline the engine is screaming, how is that efficient? 

Yes ECO is fine, all it does is dull the throttle response, I was confusing it with EV for a second, sorry. 

What do you mean "see the battery kick in?"

My revs dial (or equivalent) never go in to the 'power' zone when I am driving or even in cruise control so don't really have an issue with it downhill.

In regard to the Battery you can see on the dash board when the engine is using solely petrol, solely Battery, or combined.  I rarely see any combined on the motorway and when i do it is 1-2 seconds.  I feel this is the fault.

Thanks

[Beekeeper D]

Check the tyre pressures against what the manual says for that tyre size. (And check again on a different gauge, sometimes they are way off.) Add a couple of psi if you like, but don't run below what the manual says. 

2011? Probably not the original tyres. Look up their specification. Anything lower than an E grade for fuel efficiency is doing the car a dis-service.

 

The car won't give its best mpg unless you drive it for best mpg, and that does mean learning what it takes. One thing is early and gentle braking - staying within the 'Charge' zone means you are harvesting the most (ie wasting the least) energy. If the Charge indicator is full-scale, you are wasting energy! Charging the Battery during braking means you will use/lose less fuel when you re-accelerate. The computer will make good use of what is in the Battery, but if you don't feed it, the computer will run engine power (fuel again) to charge the Battery to what it thinks a prudent level. 

In town/40mph zone on the level, backing completely off the throttle should bring on the green EV light (top centre of my 2014 dash), meaning the petrol engine has stopped - the trick then is to be so gentle with the throttle as to keep the EV light on. (This is not "EV mode", its using the throttle so as to run the petrol engine as little as possible.) Eco mode does make this throttle delicacy easier. 

Best mpg needs a relaxed, gentle, anticipatory style of driving. 

Having an 'instant' mpg display in view will allow you to see how much difference it makes to back off slightly, and sometimes how little worse it is to push on just a bit harder. 

Something I've noticed makes a whapping difference to shortish Motorway trips is slowing down REALLY gently before my exit. Starting from a mile or so back (on the level), just knock the cruise speed down by 1mph at a time, and you'll find you can keep the instant mpg in the 75/100 zone. And that could give you 5mpg better on the trip. 

 

The behaviour you note (occasional 'smoothing' of the power delivery by use of the electric motor) is entirely typical of motorway cruising. 

I had need to drive to the exact opposite side of the M25 and return (due to a closure) round the other side. Mostly on cruise at an indicated 70 and with occasional M25 congestion, I got an indicated 63 point something on each leg of my journey. Which satisfied me. But what I find remarkable is the excellent mpg one can get on the short urban trips I have to do so many of. I have the wide and draggy 17" wheels, original-fit 'C-rated for mpg' tyres and an estate body to lug around. But I am enjoying trying to work out how the car works best. 

[Anthony Poli]

3 hours ago, Terry North East said:

Mos of my driving is Motorway between 60-70

I use the eco mode and set in cruise control when I hit speed.

My car is always empty

Do you think I should be getting more than high 40's based on that?  I just want to know whether I have a case with the dealer?

Thanks for you feedback

I managed a steady 56Mpg with a roof box on and lots of weight in the car at 70, 2 weekends ago I managed about 65 without any real weight and no roof box.

I do have my tyres at 36 PSI, as the pressure drop then it does make a big hit to the mpg.

You have the same version as I have, the manual says the Battery will keep the going for about half a mile on electric only. That was true at first, until I learned how to maximize the range.

I can get upto 5 miles on a dual carriage way with traffic lights and only use the engine to get to 40 limit and do the rest on electric. The car will accelerate up 40-50 on electric but slowly, not recommended.

On my daily commute, in the morning the car only uses electric only for 2 dips with the cruise control at 40. The return journey I get better results the car spends a longer time on electric.

 

[Anthony Poli]

59 minutes ago, Terry North East said:

My revs dial (or equivalent) never go in to the 'power' zone when I am driving or even in cruise control so don't really have an issue with it downhill.

In regard to the battery you can see on the dash board when the engine is using solely petrol, solely battery, or combined.  I rarely see any combined on the motorway and when i do it is 1-2 seconds.  I feel this is the fault.

Thanks

On the motorway What you see is the car preventing the Battery being overcharged and keeping it a safe level. So what you are seeing is normal and not a fault.

The needle should be below half way to stay on electric, just above half way to get the most economy on Petrol. The white power zone is where you don't really want to go.

[Terry North East]

Ok,

This maybe sounds like a tyre pressure and general car service issue from the above responses?

I am going to get a Hybrid Health Check (Scroll down):

https://rmbteesside.toyota.co.uk/caring-for-your-toyota

Do you think this will show any issues if I have any?

Thanks

 

[Parts-King]

Just now, Terry North East said:

Ok,

This maybe sounds like a tyre pressure and general car service issue from the above responses?

I am going to get a Hybrid Health Check (Scroll down):

https://rmbteesside.toyota.co.uk/caring-for-your-toyota

Do you think this will show any issues if I have any?

Thanks

 

It will show any issues with the Hybrid battery/system but wont show anything else, it is a limited test. Why don't you speak to the sales manager where you bought the car and see if they will book it in for investigation for you? It might save you a few quid, ask for a Hybrid Health check, you will get a certificate produced if it passes the checks

 

[Anthony Poli]

What mileage is the car on?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FROSTYBALLS]

3 hours ago, Terry North East said:

The dealer basically said I should be hitting 60mpg minimum when I explained my daily commute.

The official combined MPG is 70 so this goes against what you are saying right?

Thanks

Saying that 'you should be hitting 60mpg minimum' is different to saying 'you will hit 60mpg minimum'.

By saying 'should' the salesperson was giving an opinion of what you ought to achieve, rather than stating that you will achieve 60mpg.

By giving an opinion, the salesperson was not guaranteeing that you would get 60mpg, and this, as far as I'm aware, wouldn't be mis-selling.

[Terry North East]

3 minutes ago, FROSTYBALLS said:

Saying that 'you should be hitting 60mpg minimum' is different to saying 'you will hit 60mpg minimum'.

By saying 'should' the salesperson was giving an opinion of what you ought to achieve, rather than stating that you will achieve 60mpg.

By giving an opinion, the salesperson was not guaranteeing that you would get 60mpg, and this, as far as I'm aware, wouldn't be mis-selling.

Yeah,

It would be impossible for me to prove as well.

I'm hoping they will do the decent thing and just rule out some issues/inefficiency.

I expect to get a car working 100% unless otherwise advised.

[Terry North East]

7 minutes ago, Anthony Poli said:

What mileage is the car on?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

52,000 miles

[Anthony Poli]

8 minutes ago, Terry North East said:

52,000 miles

So it has definitely been run in, I forgot to ask how long have you had the car.

The mpg figures you are getting, is that what the car is telling you or based upon miles per tank full?

I have been using fuelly.com to track my figures and weather it is me or the car, they have been improving. Comparing my current car to the previous car, same engine size, I am using 36 litres now and was using 50-55 before doing the same miles between fill ups.

When i first got the car, my range estimate was 420 miles after filling up, now just over 12 months later the estimate is now 494.

Is yours a T spirit ?

If you have 17" wheels, then i would check to see if wider tyres have been fitted, as that would be cheaper than the original size. At the expense of fuel economy.

 

 

[Parts-King]

1 hour ago, Terry North East said:

 

 

I expect to get a car working 100% unless otherwise advised.

I'm sure it is working 100%, best ruling things out first before expecting the worst. Just because one person gets 60 MPG, doesnt mean the next person can. I have been out in customers cars who swear blind they drive like little miss daisy, only to go out on a white knuckle ride with them. Get it booked in for a check over before speculating that things are not working 100% 

 

[Bomber209]

Hi, we had a 2012 and got mid 50's. Check your tyres are correct dimensions, if they are bigger wall height that can give you lower speedo and mileage readings. so confusing your mpg. If they're OK, try checking your air filter, if it's mucky you'll be running rich (not enough air).

[Terry North East]

Thanks for all the feedback. 

I am booked in for a health check tomorrow.  

Can you all just clarify the best wheel for efficiency and how I check please?  I Will have a look at fuelly too to track off actual milage as opposed to read out.  

Have attached a pic of wheel

[FROSTYBALLS]

17 inch wheels with low profile tyres (45 profile) aren't the best for fuel efficiency. Looks like the original 'W' (speed) rated tyres have been replaced with 'ZR' rated tyres, which may not have a particularly good fuel efficiency rating.