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What key or fob do I need


Wheel2Turn
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Hi everyone my first thread so take it easy on me,I will say sorry now if I have done this wrong and posted it in the wrong place.

I just got a rav 54 plate vvt 20 xt3 with the leather seats and the side steps.

What I would like to know is how do I go about getting a key and fob for the car,I was only given one,The key and the fob all works fine but I would like to get 2 more and would like the cheap way first :blush:

What I have done so far I went to a key cutting place to get a key cut but he said that he could cut thre key but then i got to get it chipped and for the car but he don't do that he can just cut the key with no fob just a key,so what fob do I need is there a place out there where I can get a fob or does only NASA knows where this planet is or am I being fobbed off :biggrin:

What is this science he speaks off :biggrin: my head hurts

 

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As part of the car's security system, the majority of cars have transponders within the car key/fob that communicate with the car's electronic control unit (ecu) when the key is used. Provided the signal from the key/fob is accepted, the ecu will allow the car to open, start, etc. This means that car keys need to be 'programmed' into the  ecu.

Most main dealers charge around £150+ for one replacement key/fob including programming. Part of the reason the cost is high is the security aspect (discouraging people getting keys for vehicles they don't own).

Your best bet may be to get keys cut and programmed from a specialist auto locksmith, rather than just somewhere that cuts keys.

Searching (Google, Bing, etc) for an 'auto locksmith' should get you someone local.

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4 hours ago, FROSTYBALLS said:

As part of the car's security system, the majority of cars have transponders within the car key/fob that communicate with the car's electronic control unit (ecu) when the key is used. Provided the signal from the key/fob is accepted, the ecu will allow the car to open, start, etc. This means that car keys need to be 'programmed' into the  ecu.

Most main dealers charge around £150+ for one replacement key/fob including programming. Part of the reason the cost is high is the security aspect (discouraging people getting keys for vehicles they don't own).

Your best bet may be to get keys cut and programmed from a specialist auto locksmith, rather than just somewhere that cuts keys.

Searching (Google, Bing, etc) for an 'auto locksmith' should get you someone local.

Thank you for the reply and info :biggrin:

After reading your adive I rang a key cutting place and they told me they will order the fob and program it for me for £40 does that sound right to you,they going to ring me when the fob is there,they took my car reg number and that.

I was watching a youtubre video about how to set the chip fob thingy,by opening the car door with the key ignition am I on the right track.

Thank you again

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That sounds OK.

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Thank you again :biggrin: you really have been a good help to me today.

One more thing :blush: I don't know what oil the previous owner used ,would it be ok to top up with 5w/30 for now until I can get to have a oil change. The engine oil looks really clean like if it just had a oil change but I still want to have it done when I can.I think it said 5w/30 in the handbook.

Thank you again

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5W-30 should be fine.

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i think for £40 you'll get a transponder key only. It will start the car but wont lock and unlock the doors via a remote. 

let us know how you get on.

thanks 

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5 hours ago, 786s13 said:

i think for £40 you'll get a transponder key only. It will start the car but wont lock and unlock the doors via a remote. 

let us know how you get on.

thanks 

Will do,They are going to call me when the the fob is there because they was ordering one in for me,So I think there going to program it to well thats what hes said,I will keep you posted.:biggrin:

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I don't know if I have brought a can of worms because it seems I have another problem with the key.

Went to get the key done today,the guy programed the key fob to open the doors but he had a problem then with the key or something I really didn't understand what he was saying but he said he haven't give up and he wiil ring me at the end of next week when I have time off from work and I can take the car to him again.

But what we have notice today well the key cutting guy pointed out is my security light is staying on when the key is out of the ignition but when I put the key in the ignition and driving the security light flashes.

Can anyone throw some light on this please or have I got myself bad one or can this be repaired.

I just want a spare key just in case.

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Just telephone Toyota they said it could be something to do with the ECG.

So I am letting them do it for me because I am at a lost to what it could be,I know it will cost me be but I need to have a second key and it will cost me more in the long run.

I just hope they can sort it out for me.

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They're probably using the wrong programming procedure; There are three different types of ECU immobilizer from Toyotas of that era - Two of them, Denso and Valeo - are common and have similar programming behaviours. A third one (Which, annoyingly, my Yaris has, which is how I stumbled over this) is Tokai Rika which seems to be rarer as I have found precious little info on it, and seems to have a different programming procedure. I'm guessing you have one of these and that they're trying to use the denso/valeo programming procedure.

But worst case, Toyota should be able to use their Techstream software to program the transponder code into the ECU directly if they can't do it with the press accelerator 6 times/press brake 6 times/sacrifice 3 chickens and a goat/etc way of programming it.



 

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I have recently had a remote fob key cut, and programmed it using Techstream.  It is a 2005 RAV4 and uses a "4D" chip (DENSO 1512V Module), which cannot be programmed (immobiliser-wise) with the key/door/pedal hokey-cokey.  I found a tutorial on Youtube, which helped.  I expect your 2004 RAV4 is the same.  The remote entry is programmed with the key/door routine (also on Youtube).

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2 hours ago, Cyker said:

They're probably using the wrong programming procedure; There are three different types of ECU immobilizer from Toyotas of that era - Two of them, Denso and Valeo - are common and have similar programming behaviours. A third one (Which, annoyingly, my Yaris has, which is how I stumbled over this) is Tokai Rika which seems to be rarer as I have found precious little info on it, and seems to have a different programming procedure. I'm guessing you have one of these and that they're trying to use the denso/valeo programming procedure.

But worst case, Toyota should be able to use their Techstream software to program the transponder code into the ECU directly if they can't do it with the press accelerator 6 times/press brake 6 times/sacrifice 3 chickens and a goat/etc way of programming it.



 

Thank you for the info,I think that might be the problem with mine,3 chickens and a goat that made me laugh its a bit like that :biggrin:

What I did today and what I have read on the internet that it may be in valet mode so I took the alarm out of valet mode and I couldn't start the engine :blush: I had a bit of a panic on because I thought I had messed up,I manage to get it back in valet mode and the car started again.

I think I will leave it to Toyota to sorted it out for me,I know it will cost me but I can't see any other way. I can get a new key and hopefully the security light to flash when I take the key out of the ignition.

Thank you again :smile:

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2 hours ago, IanML said:

I have recently had a remote fob key cut, and programmed it using Techstream.  It is a 2005 RAV4 and uses a "4D" chip (DENSO 1512V Module), which cannot be programmed (immobiliser-wise) with the key/door/pedal hokey-cokey.  I found a tutorial on Youtube, which helped.  I expect your 2004 RAV4 is the same.  The remote entry is programmed with the key/door routine (also on Youtube).

Thank you this site is very helpful and the people on it to :smile:

What wording should I put in the search bar on YouTube.

I think my rav have been standing for a few months because I have a few little problems that I have had to sort out with windows not opening,inside lights,CDs not playing,some oiling here and there but the ECU is beyond my skills.

I got the rav for my wife who joined this site looking for advice but after driving it I think I might claim the rights to it :biggrin:

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Links  below:

Immobiliser programming for 4D chip.  Also covers remote entry programming, but rather too fast to follow.

Post #7 in this thread addresses the programming of the earlier chip, and is a good write-up of remote entry programming.

 

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2 hours ago, IanML said:

Links  below:

Immobiliser programming for 4D chip.  Also covers remote entry programming, but rather too fast to follow.

Post #7 in this thread addresses the programming of the earlier chip, and is a good write-up of remote entry programming.

 

Thank you :smile:

That's a good bit of software I have done a Google and is that the program that I can down load,I have a old laptop kicking around but its got the old windows xp on it.

What the problem I got is my rav is stuck in valet mode so when I take it out of valet mode it won't start with the only key I got and when I put the car back into valet mode the car will start but the security light will stay on when driving and because of this I can't get a new chipped key to register with the car,The key guy yesterday got the new key fob to open and close the doors but the key wouldn't start the car because the security light flashes when the new cut key was in the ignition and the security light will stay on when the key is out of ignition and the door's are locked with me outside the car.

I think that software would sort it out thank you for that but I think it might be best if I got Toyota to sort it out first.

That post #7 got some really good info I was reading that when I did a search on here yesterday.

I have book marked it because I am going to look into that software and I think I will need a lead to plug into the car and laptop have you got a link for a good lead please 

Thank you again I owe you one :smile:

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8 hours ago, IanML said:

I got mine from here.

How do you put your car into valet mode?

Thank you for that I will oder one soon and have a good look at the software and that,Will that one fit my car 

What I think I did :biggrin: 

I closed the doors put key ignition and turned the key fully but without starting the engine and there is a button under the ash tray with a little dot button on it,you got to press that with in 5 second's of puting the key in the ignition you may have to keep it pressed for a good 30 seconds or so you might get a chirp sound from the alarm,Then if you take the key out of the ignition your security light should stay on and won't flash.

I haven't got a link sorry but if you search Toyota valet mode I am sure you will find it,it took me some time to find it,I was on my other pc\tablet when I found it or i would try and find the link and copy it for you Good luck but do look into it first before doing it because I am no expert and to get it back out of valet mode.

I have just looked in my rav and I don't know if that's what I did or not so sorry because you can get into valet mode by opening the driver side door or something.I have just been searching on the net.I hope I haven't messed you around because I am sure that's how I did it ?

I have tried so many things yesterday my head hurts :biggrin::blush:

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7 hours ago, Wheel2Turn said:

Thank you for that I will oder one soon and have a good look at the software and that,Will that one fit my car 

It says its for Toyotas from 1996 to 2016, and it works with WinXP to Win10.  The instructions are excellent.

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21 minutes ago, IanML said:

It says its for Toyotas from 1996 to 2016, and it works with WinXP to Win10.  The instructions are excellent.

Thank you,I will order one,It looks really good and I find things like that interesting and if it can help with finding faults it could end up saving me money in the long run.

I found that link about the valet mode.

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Car-Alarms-1513/2009/9/RAV4-alarm.htm

I will telephone Toyota tomorrow about them getting me a key because I want them to do it first to see if they will have the same problems as the the key cutting guy that i took it to the other day.

I will get back to you :smile:

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If you look here you will see that there are two different (look the same) keyfobs for our vintage of RAV4:

The first has a 4C transponder, and the second a 4D.  You have to get the right one for your car, or the immobiliser function cannot be programmed (the remote entry will work irrespective).  As far as I can tell, both types were used from July 2003 to November 2005.  I am wondering whether your new key has the wrong transponder in it.

You can find out which you need by contacting the company with your VIN - they can tell you which is correct.  If you have the wrong one, you could swap the correct module into the Shell, so you would not need another key cut, and program it with the appropriate method.  4C can be done with the hokey-cokey, but 4D has to have the Techstream software method.  That would save you quite a bit, compared to getting it from the dealer, I expect.

 

PS Thanks for the link, but it applies to Alarmtek, whereas my car has a Toyota TVSS IV-D. My car does not seem to have a valet button or switch.

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The problem I got is this I was given 2 keys with the car one of the keys work ok with my car fob open and close doors and starts the engine,Now 2nd key was not cut just a blank key with the wrong chip in the fob,I went to this place to get a new key which he ordered for me 3rd key with right chip fob he manage to program the key to open and close doors but the key wouldn't start the engine so what he did then was cut the 2nd key so he could swap the chip with the 3rd key but again it didn't start the engine.But what we did notice that the security light was staying on when we locked the car with the 1st key and we was outside and then when we started the car again with the 1st key the security light blinks with engine running.

We look in the car manual the security light should not be doing that and that's where I am now.

I have still got the 1st and 2nd key but he kept the 3rd key he ordered and said it would look into it more and give me a call back.

So then I rang Toyota on the weekend to see if they could sort it out.

Thank you for the link yes my key is on there but its the security light is causing the problem now because I think it because on that the car won't recognize a new key.

I think your are right that software would sort it out.

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I still think there is a possibility that keys 2 & 3 have the wrong transponder module.  It is possible that the security light is flashing because an attempt has been made to program the wrong module.  Both types of module will work the door locking, but only the correct one can be programmed to turn off the immobiliser.

The Techstream software should tell you why the lamp is flashing

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There's some good info in this thread!

Security light is flashing because its still in the wrong mode. As Ian said you will have to use the Techstream software to look at the ecu (not a big or expensive task). Also thanks to Ian for the website above as i needed to find out which transponder i need and hopefully these guys can help.

Ive recently bought a corolla 56reg and have been messing around trying to get a new key.

I previously had a rav 05reg with the denso (stamped on the key blade) key and added a 2nd hand remote with a "used transponder chip" very easily buy doing the key in/out methods to program the immobiliser and then the door open/close method for the central locking. Thats right! the chip i used was used and came with the ebay 2nd hand key i brought only for the central locking unit. It added to the cars immobiliser list no problem, so you dont need a new transponder chip on that model (4c chips). I ordered a new case/blade and job done. 

Ive been having more of a challenging task to sort out this current corolla's key as its a valeo key and the cars year is above 2005+. The immobiliser programming isnt working as the cars security light doesn't stay on after going through the sequence so cant add any new keys. Either you cant do it manually or im doing it wrong. Im guessing because its a 2005+ model it has the 4d chip so needs the techStream software and cable to add the new key. Im going to get the TechStream and see what happens, still using the used transponder 1st then moving over to the new one if it fails to work. 

Its been a interesting learning curve with these keys and the info shared on here is most valuable if you want to save money. So far ive paid £10 for a used eBay key, £10 for the TechStream cable. It will be around £3.50 for a new blank/case and £3 for cutting... so thats a grand total of £26.50 for a fully working key. (hopefully! haha). 

:happy:

 

 

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