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Engine management light reset?


Beyond the Blue
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I have a 2011 Auris hybrid, today the orange engine management light came on. I did a few checks and found the engine oil was getting low (yes I know I should check it more often) I topped it up hoping that the light would now go out but it remains lit. Maybe this wasn't the reason for it illuminating, but assuming it was does the light have to be re-set in some way? If not then it looks like a trip to the dealers.

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Sounds like you need a OBD tool, you can check the code and reset it. Is there any noticeable symptoms while you are driving the car?

Normally if it was just low, I would hope you got a red light showing for the oil.

How many times have you driven the car since adding the oil?

 

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18 minutes ago, Anthony Poli said:

Sounds like you need a OBD tool, you can check the code and reset it. Is there any noticeable symptoms while you are driving the car?

Normally if it was just low, I would hope you got a red light showing for the oil.

How many times have you driven the car since adding the oil?

 

I don't seem to have a specific warning light for low oil. I have started the car a couple of times and drove up and down the street but that's all. Do you think if I started it a few more times it may re-set, assuming of course that the low oil was the problem? The car drives just fine.

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Going by a previous car, which had an intermittent O2 sensor. The light did go out after a few starts, until the sensor played up again.

I would definitely get a ODB tool, I have a little plug and use the phone to read the codes/reset and collect data. Cheap enough to read the code yourself and at least you can get an idea of the problem before you take it in.

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I disconnected the Battery and the warning light has stayed off, so hopefully it was the oil level that showed the fault light. Seems a bit silly that the light didn't just go out after the fault was rectified without having to disconnect the Battery and reset all the radio, time, date etc.

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2 minutes ago, Beyond the Blue said:

I disconnected the battery and the warning light has stayed off, so hopefully it was the oil level that showed the fault light. Seems a bit silly that the light didn't just go out after the fault was rectified without having to disconnect the battery and reset all the radio, time, date etc.

Using that method might cause the car to use more fuel, until the ECU has settled down. On a previous car it was after a few hundred miles.

 

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If you have an Android phone or tablet available, the "OBD tool" being sensibly advised could be as simple as a £5ish eBay item* and a free version of an app like 'Torque'. This would enable you to see, and potentially clear the error code. 

* An ELM 327 bluetooth ODB2 reader to temporarily plug into the socket under the dash. See the internet (and include this forum) for specific clone versions, recommendations and warnings. 

If you have only Apple devices, in this case things will be harder as well as more expensive. 

 

Once you have the error code, you can look that up on the internet to discover what error condition triggered the warning ... which would be good to know before it got more expensive! 

And, now knowing that your engine is using oil, that is something that itself probably needs more attention. 

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2 hours ago, Beekeeper D said:

If you have an Android phone or tablet available, the "OBD tool" being sensibly advised could be as simple as a £5ish ebay item* and a free version of an app like 'Torque'. This would enable you to see, and potentially clear the error code. 

* An ELM 327 Bluetooth ODB2 reader to temporarily plug into the socket under the dash. See the internet (and include this forum) for specific clone versions, recommendations and warnings. 

If you have only Apple devices, in this case things will be harder as well as more expensive. 

 

Once you have the error code, you can look that up on the internet to discover what error condition triggered the warning ... which would be good to know before it got more expensive! 

And, now knowing that your engine is using oil, that is something that itself probably needs more attention. 

These days you can use the same bluetooth and wifi ODB with Apple devices, and there is a some good free apps too.

I found out the other month you can get the more sophisticated set up that will communicate with all the systems and not just the ECU. Its just a tad more expensive lol

:happy:

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Well, the warning light came on again today so I will be on the look out for the ODB plug thingy. If anyone can give me a link to what I need I would be more than grateful. I have an Android phone and tablet.

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2 hours ago, Anthony Poli said:

Just ordered a connector, thanks Anthony, much appreciated.

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If I am not mistaken, you can check the codes. If you want to check any of the hybrid related Sensor, you might need to add the PIDS.

If you have any problems, you can just PM.

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17 hours ago, Anthony Poli said:

Wifi or Bluetooth it doesn't really matter which you choose?

 

For Android, both should be capable of working, but bluetooth is cheaper and much more usual. My understanding is that Apple's iOS does not permit this type of bluetooth connection so a wifi version is required.

There are LOTS of different ELM327 clones available, copying different versions of the ELM chip, with different degrees of success. Copying the external appearance is easier than the chip internals! And that means that the same supplier offering an identical-looking product sometime later, may be selling what is actually a different product that may work better or worse.

This £5 one on Amazon seems to get good reviews for working with Torque, and is "fulfilled by Amazon" - so should be straightforwardly returnable if it doesn't work. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0098T6FZ8 

 

For checking (and I think clearing) fault codes the free version of Torque should be fine. However (the paid - a couple of quid?) Torque Pro is needed if you want to install the vehicle-specific "PID"s to display things like Battery temperatures and state of charge. 

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4 hours ago, Beekeeper D said:

For Android, both should be capable of working, but Bluetooth is cheaper and much more usual. My understanding is that Apple's iOS does not permit this type of Bluetooth connection so a wifi version is required.

There are LOTS of different ELM327 clones available, copying different versions of the ELM chip, with different degrees of success. Copying the external appearance is easier than the chip internals! And that means that the same supplier offering an identical-looking product sometime later, may be selling what is actually a different product that may work better or worse.

This £5 one on Amazon seems to get good reviews for working with Torque, and is "fulfilled by Amazon" - so should be straightforwardly returnable if it doesn't work. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0098T6FZ8 

 

For checking (and I think clearing) fault codes the free version of Torque should be fine. However (the paid - a couple of quid?) Torque Pro is needed if you want to install the vehicle-specific "PID"s to display things like battery temperatures and state of charge. 

This is what I ordered, it arrives tomorrow hope it will be ok http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/121660462838?lpid=122&chn=ps&adgroupid=37167790761&rlsatarget=pla-258198441583&adtype=pla&poi=&googleloc=9046523&device=c&campaignid=659272460&crdt=0  I also purchased Torque Pro for £2-99

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You should be fine, mine is wifi and works on both phones. Bought a bluetooth one and doesn't work on either :happy:

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My OBD diagnostic tool arrived today and it is showing fault code P2237 02 sensor current control circuit/ open bank 1 sensor. So does anyone know where this sensor can be found, I'm assuming it will be in the exhaust manifold area? Would it be a simple DIY fix?

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My OBD diagnostic tool arrived today and it is showing fault code P2237 02 sensor current control circuit/ open bank 1 sensor. So does anyone know where this sensor can be found, I'm assuming it will be in the exhaust manifold area? Would it be a simple DIY fix?

That's sound about for the location, probably get to it from underneath.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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