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Vibration at 2000rpm - again and again


ghsaunders40
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I'd like to kick this thread back into life as our IQ does this horrid 2000 rpm vibration. Its second hand so I've no idea if the EGR issue affected it (59 plate) or was resolved but Toyota confirm no recalls for it. I tend to let off the loud pedal around 2000 rpm in order to quiet the car as everything shakes and an engine/heat plate somewhere starts rattling outside like a tin can.

I've not taken it to Toyota yet as its out of warranty but I'd appreciate knowing if anyone that has/had this issue has managed to resolve it and how?

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Personally I do not think this is the EGR... if it's a loud and noticeable 2000 hrtz....

First I would have a look at the wheels ... are they centered in a correct way.

Maybe jack the car up and have the wheels make a spin? See if they are 'round' .

I had it once my winter-tires were re-mounted, that one of the center-rings (that adjust the difference between the diameter of the axes between wheel and car part) was gone.. nobody saw this...but the car was a horrid vibrating thing at about 2000 revs... on the road.

Did not know what it was.. Profile took wheel for wheel of the car and finally found that this part was missing. They stack the wheels+rimms away with the nice-side up.. so due to gravity this ring had fallen off, down and away.

Secondly...it could be from standing somewhere a long time..so the wheels are not round anymore... this goes away after a while driving.

Nope... no more ideas at this moment... :-)

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I don't think this is the wheels. I've had the tyres replaced and balanced recently. The whole car vibrates with no notable wobble through the steering as you'd expect from wheel imbalance (at least on the front) Its definitely an engine/driveline imbalance around 2000 rpm. It doesn't feel like a misfire, simply that the engine is out of balance, and the cure for that might be expensive...

edit... though like others have said, its only under load. Revving the engine at a standstill is fine, so perhaps not frontline engine components but something more driveline (after the flywheel) related. Clutch imbalance, driveshafts perhaps.

Does the iq engine have a DMF?

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My advice still is to take wheel for wheel of the car and have a look at them insides... is there an adjusmentring or not...

But when they are original wheels from T then I would assume they are fine...

Anyways... ... my wheels were also balanced and everything...

But during the fitting of the wheels on the car. a 'centre' peace was missing.. thus the wheel was 'just' not right in it's place...

The wheel-nuts (when mounted) do put the wheel more or less in the centre... but while driving he wheel is not rightly balanced....

And when put on there balance-machine-thing there is nothing wrong with the wheel...cause this machine overrules that centre-ring-thing. Only when mounted on the car.

It was not easy for Profile to find the cause... but it was there...

On Google I could not find anything yet about vibrations of a 3 cylinder engine... Will keep you informed.

*edited*....

1. Misfires?... check the sparks and wires

2. Check the engine mounts.. broken or worn down...or glue has separated...

Balance: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_balance

3 cylinder engine vibrations: http://elio3wheel.com/vb/showthread.php?2084-Elio-Engine-vibrations

Vibrating engine: http://www.ehow.com/how_2060649_stop-engine-vibration.html

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The thing about wheel vibration however is that its speed dependent. A lot of cars show it around 50 or 70mph if incorrectly balanced. This issue is at 2000rpm engine revs and does not depend on the speed of the car. Its most notable (i.e. the car shakes and rattles a lot, and its a high speed vibration perhaps 50hz est, not a wobble as you'd generally see at slow speeds with wheel imbalance) in 1st and 2nd.

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"I understand"...

Is this a CVT or a manual...?

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My apologies I didn't clarify that did I. Its an IQ1 (2009) 1.0 Manual. It has around 32K miles on it and I have to say that when we bought it, at around 10K miles, I didn't really notice the vibration, though I don't drive it as much as my partner. Driving it now however drives me insane when it hits the 2000rpm in first or second gear and for that reason I back off the throttle at that point to smooth out the car and then press ahead again.

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It's OK man... think it must be terrible... really..

Hope someone here has a tip or a solution...

Broken or bad ... Motor-mounts is number 2... here: http://www.ehow.com/how_4672840_diagnose-car-vibrations.html

In this there is also a comment of a 'heat-shield' touching and vibrating... but they are talking about 3000 hertz...

And this: RPM-sensitive vibrations

Vibrations occurring at a certain RPM, but not relative to any particular vehicle speed, are usually caused by problems related to the engine or components attached to it. Loose or broken engine mounts, loose or broken accessory mounts, loose or damaged belts and defects in the power steering system are examples of vibrations that occur at certain RPMs.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/about_5372008_causes-vibration-cars.html#ixzz30MQOwi8J

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I recognize the vibrations.

My car is from 2009 had an egr check and revision and after that at 2000 rpm there is a vibration in the engine.

It is in all gears exact on 2000 rpm. It has nothing to do with speed.

It helps to change gear. But that costs petrol.

On the end of this year I will sell the car because of this irritating vibration.

There are a lot of nice new cars on the market at september.

C1, 208, Aygo and last but not least the new twingo.

I hope they have better engines.

Regards,

Peter from Holland

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All the same engines Neelix... so?

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There is a question over whether the C1/108 will use continue to use the 1.0 litre Toyota engine that is used in the current Aygo/IQ/Yaris/C1/107.

PSA currently have their own 1.0 litre and 1.2 litre 3 cylinder engines which are used in the 208. The PSA 1.2 will presumably be used in the new C1/108. The new Aygo will only be available with a developed version of the Toyota 1.0 litre engine, but it is presently unclear whose 1.0 litre engine the C1/108 will have.

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Simple check if its wheels ( related) or drive is to get up to 70 and push the clutch in then play around with the engine revs and play with the gears. See what you come up with

David

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Sounds like a loose manifold or exhaust, blown cat (any deep floods in your area of late?) or loose heat shield. I'd be getting my local friendly garage to double check all is tightened up as is should.

It might also be prudent to run some of the higher quality fuel system cleaners through too along with some posh 98 octane petrol. Worth a pop.

Talking of the blown cat has got me thinking. A hot catalyst and deep, cold flood water can knacker your cat, it's unlikely to be a warranty item and they cost a fortune to replace and will affect performance.

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Peter or Sweetdentist,

The engine of the aygo is a little bit different. I have driven a lot of times in aygo's and in daihatsu sirions with the same engines and I like them more.

Maybe it is a result of the mixture of petrol and air in the engine on a certain moment that is not perfect. (2000rpm)

I don't know but an other reason of selling the car is the missing of space.

And I like the new models very much. And after 86.000km in my IQ it is time for a new design.

I like the IQ and I had a lot of fun with it.

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Think you will miss the quality of the iQ...

and you will have to live with the &$#@ robot-automatic-gearbox .. the NOT-non-key-entry ... the weak quality of the doors .. the inner noise of them Aygo's and copies...

The new models look nice... but you will get used to this new design after a while...

But then again... they are cheaper and have more space...

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Hi,I have this prob on my IQ ,along with the cutting
out/underpower thing.After god knows how many times I took the car back to the
dealers,it finally had a new cat fitted,since then the already vibration prob
got steadily worse,Once again I took the car back to the dealers only to be
told there was nothing at all wrong with the car,I was beginning to feel it
really was me that was imagining the prob..after all it had been in the very
capable hands of Toyota more time than I care to remember,and to be honest I just
had enough of it and sold it..i know some will say that was the easy way out
and I should have kept at the dealers,but I really feel I was banging my head
against a very solid brick wall,but I was totally fed up with it, in the end I got
as tho I didn’t want to drive it at all…..it was horrible..

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I'm not selling a car due to a vibration. I can understand the frustration but the only person to benefit from selling the car is the dealer as they take more and more of your money.

I'll get to the bottom of it eventually ;)

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good luck m8, hope ur toyota dealer/techs, wherever you live are a bit more on the ball than these in sheffield .

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On the German iQ-site it is also a known problem.

" Der Motor is klasse - stimmt!

Nur dieses blöde Verbindungsstück zwischen Krümmer und Auspuff. Das klappert bei 2000U/min und Last. "

Translated:

"This engine is excellent - I agree!

Except this !Removed! connectionpiece between "Krummer" and exhaust. That thing rattles at 2000 rpm and under strain/power..."

They are talking that the CAUSE (YES indeed the cause) is the connection between the "Krümmer" and the exhaust... Coudl not find what a Krümmer is... but probably a part of the engine exhaust manifold... Or probably it IS the manifold...

What to do about it? The only answer I could find was to have the car run higher revs... So..no really solution about this connection-piece... :-(

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all.

Sorry, been off the forum for a good while and only seem replies.

Car still shaking badly.

We're going to have to get rid. Of it was not for the fact my Auris is so good along with our Aygo before the iQ I'd not touch another.

Looks like we will trade it for a 2012 yaris D4D in the next few weeks.

Gh

Sent from my iPhone using Toyota OC

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If the problem is a connection piece on exhaust, why is it not happening to all IQ's out there ? Anyone any ideas ?

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I've had a massive list of parts replaced. See honest johns car by car review for the list as it's extensive. They cars engine and interior has also been rebuilt. We're at our wits end. So it's bye bye iq.

Sent from my iPhone using Toyota OC

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I've had a massive list of parts replaced. See honest johns car by car review for the list as it's extensive. They cars engine and interior has also been rebuilt. We're at our wits end. So it's bye bye iq.

Sent from my iPhone using Toyota OC

Found this Honest John IQ review as stated above:

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/toyota/iq-2008/

Updated in 2014, however it does not say how many IQ's affected.

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I've had a massive list of parts replaced. See honest johns car by car review for the list as it's extensive. They cars engine and interior has also been rebuilt. We're at our wits end. So it's bye bye iq.

Sent from my iPhone using Toyota OC

Found this Honest John IQ review as stated above:

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/toyota/iq-2008/

Updated in 2014, however it does not say how many IQ's affected.

Looking now in more detail at this Honest John Review the list of 1) What to watch out for and 2) Recalls is growing, this may put some people off the IQ !

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Upon reflection of all the above issues related to the IQ, No car is perfect, and with forums like this one all the issues get aired perhaps more than previously so my view is that the IQ is still a good little car (based on todays standards) and if you read all the Honest John "negatives" they have all (99.9%) been dealt with by Toyota in terms of recalls or changes to the design.

As Toyota are pretty good in comparison to other manufactures at coming "up front" with recalls.

I think we should keep this in mind and in context when discussing the merits and potential problems related to the IQ.

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