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Vibration at 2000rpm - again and again


ghsaunders40
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Also, would a bad clutch effect the idling of the car, i feel the cars idle is a little lower than usual and when i slow down and apply the clutch to stop, it feels like the car is going to stall.

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I'm not a knowledgeable car guy but I would say that the clutch would only upset the idling of the engine when coming to a standstill if the clutch was not fully disengaging. A simple test would, I suggest, be stationary,  and engage reverse gear as it would crunch if the clutch was still slightly engaged as there is no synchromesh to soften the gears engaging.

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On 11/27/2022 at 9:25 PM, We-go said:

I'm not a knowledgeable car guy but I would say that the clutch would only upset the idling of the engine when coming to a standstill if the clutch was not fully disengaging. A simple test would, I suggest, be stationary,  and engage reverse gear as it would crunch if the clutch was still slightly engaged as there is no synchromesh to soften the gears engaging.

Thanks for your help 

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On 11/22/2022 at 9:12 PM, PCM said:

I looked at Mr.Clutch, but their online reviews did not inspire me. Just saying...

Hope it all gets sorted soon to YOUR satisfaction!

I checked their reviews too, some shocking stories, doubt I'll be using them, Thanks for the heads up btw 🙂

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I would suggest... find a good independent garage near to where you are located, who can get to know you and your car.

Expect to pay, about £750-£1,000. (I paid myself - no warranty) Not cheap, I know, but most here think it's worth it.

If you haven't already, try the Garage Guide link I posted earlier, or maybe post your approx., location and perhaps others will know of somewhere good to suggest?

 

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8 minutes ago, PCM said:

I would suggest... find a good independent garage near to where you are located, who can get to know you and your car.

Expect to pay, about £750-£1,000. (I paid myself - no warranty) Not cheap, I know, but most here think it's worth it.

If you haven't already, try the Garage Guide link I posted earlier, or maybe post your approx., location and perhaps others will know of somewhere good to suggest?

 

Thanks so much for your help, I will do that, I am Based in Enfield London area for anyone that can recommend a good garage.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Interestingly today, as driving with the windows all down, I could hear that when the car vibrates at 2k revs as mine does quite badly even with 41k on clock, it rattles loudly outside the car. It almost sounds like the under tray of the car is rattling and vibrating when the car vibrates. Its surprisingly loud from inside the car. I am thinking of doing a video from outside the car to see what it picks up.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, 

Just an update on my 2k vibration issue, As most of you said it was a clutch issue you, that so happened to be my problem and now with a new clutch fitted it is now perfect.

also another result, Toyota quoted me £1100 to do the job, then I looked on a 'find a mechanic' website and the cheapest price quoted was £680 however some of the reviews put me off these garages.

So I decided to do a bit more investigating other garages that specialise in Clutches, And I found a great little back alley garage that only fit clutches. Top reviews on google and

did the job for me in a few hours for a mere £420. If you're in London or better still south east London, I would recommend Lee Clutch Centre in Catford to fit your new clutch.

https://www.google.com/search?q=lee+clutch+centre+catford&oq=lee+clutch+centre&aqs=chrome.2.35i39i355j46i39i175i199j0i22i30i625j0i22i30j0i22i30i625j69i61.6907j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Thank me later 😉

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Is it really the clutch that causes this? My car literally shudders at 2k and the sound drone hurts my ears... Im not too far from SE London but thats a lot of money to fix a drone!

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5 hours ago, Dizeee said:

Is it really the clutch that causes this? My car literally shudders at 2k and the sound drone hurts my ears... Im not too far from SE London but thats a lot of money to fix a drone!

If you are happy to drive the car in this condition, that's fine. I think most people, I include myself, found it noisy, uncomfortable and not much fun to drive.

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I just remembered, wasn't there a TSB for a resonance/vibration at 2000rpm under certain loads? I forget what car/engine it was for but I vaguely recall there was an ECU update to fix it in affected cars that just changed the engine map slightly to avoid the resonance...

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1 minute ago, Cyker said:

I just remembered, wasn't there a TSB for a resonance/vibration at 2000rpm under certain loads? I forget what car/engine it was for but I vaguely recall there was an ECU update to fix it in affected cars that just changed the engine map slightly to avoid the resonance...

Sorry, not heard of that one. I'm not an engineer or knowledgeable car person, but if the problem is mechanical, I doubt that playing with the ECU would offer much help.

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  • 1 month later...

So disappointing , just bought 09 1lt IQ 79k got the dreaded vibration , so followed the posts on here saying ,, new clutch,, So i spent £900 had new clutch installed.. 

the car is alot better to drive now ...BUT ..the vibration is reduced by 60% .but its STILL THERE. .. ive had 4 Lexus and a bunch of Toyotas, over the years,    but this IQ  is one i just cannot fix  ..as an engineer for 40 years ..im saying its a bad flywheel,  or weak cluches,  or a worn out gearbox .. .

i see no one can come up with an answer including Toyota,   

in my case  the new  Blue Print clutch did not stop the vibration.  just reduced it ..

this is turning out to be the most problematic Toyota ive ever had...

any comments would be appreciated 

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I had my clutch replaced about 3 months ago ( 49,000 miles ) and it made a huge improvement.

I do still feel that at about 2,000rpm it's a bit of a weak spot, but I guess that's just how it is.

However, the new clutch did make my car a pleasure to drive. A feisty little thing.

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its definitely a fault . not all 1 ltr iq have the problem i believe the 1.3 dosent have the problem.

Toyota wouldn't of let iit out the factories with this vibration.. its proving to expensive to fix .... buyer beware...is say .. 

The vibration is still there , so itll only get worse, and cause leaks and failures, and very annoying to drive  

i think the car will have to go 

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Wow - ive not really noticed this but i will next time i drive it...! Having just fitted a new clutch myself recently (650-700) is a good price from a garage...my local garage wanted 1100 - which is why i thought i would try it myself (never worked really on the car after 11 years of ownership) up til this point - i found a guy on youtube that did the clutch change and filmed everything so i followed along - someone asked him in the chat how long it took - he said about 7 hours. For me it was 12 but i would guess 3 of that was stuck bolts and rounded of nuts etc etc.

Anyway..now ive come across this ill take more notice next time im out in it.

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My partner has had the Aygo, a 107 and now is running a C1, all three of these cars had the same 3 cyclinder 1 litre engine as fitted to the IQ. I noticed that all the 3 cars had a definate vibration between 1800 and 2000rpm. Anything below or above those revs and the engines always seemed to run quite smooth.

Tried various things eventually changing engine mounts on the C1 which did make a slight difference, especially the lower "dog bone"  but it never cured the vibration/shaking really, it was still there.

Had been reading a lot about the difference in E5 and E10 fuels, she'd had been using E10 unleaded as had I in my Skoda Citigo, VW's equivulent 3 pot fuggle engine. Let the gauge drop to near the reserve mark and then refuelled with E5 instead. Didn't take long to notice that the engine ran a lot happier on E5 as opposed to the E10. Most noticable was that the vibrations at around the 2000rpm mark had smoothed right out.

That impressed with the difference I also decided to switch from E10 to E5 and again a marked difference in how much better the VW 3 cylinder ran on the super unleaded.

Ok it costs that bit much more and it's somewhat more polluting but there's the trade off with better MPG. We'll be sticking with the E5, these 3 cylinder engines seem much happier running on it.

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13 minutes ago, DerekHa said:

...

Had been reading a lot about the difference in E5 and E10 fuels, she'd had been using E10 unleaded as had I in my Skoda Citigo, VW's equivulent 3 pot fuggle engine. Let the gauge drop to near the reserve mark and then refuelled with E5 instead. Didn't take long to notice that the engine ran a lot happier on E5 as opposed to the E10. Most noticable was that the vibrations at around the 2000rpm mark had smoothed right out.

That impressed with the difference I also decided to switch from E10 to E5 and again a marked difference in how much better the VW 3 cylinder ran on the super unleaded.

 

I use Shell V-Power. Can still only spend up to about £30 at a refill!

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just dropped my daughter home....listened for the vibration....tbh - i think its how you drive it (imho) keep the revs high and its smooth (3 of us in the car) low and it vibrates....thats my 2 cents anyway.

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Before my IQ, I had 1L manual Aygo, 10 plate. I ran it for 10 years and 100,000 miles and can't say I ever noticed a vibration at 2000 rpm, or indeed at any rpm. My IQ has done 8,500 miles since its clutch replacement and still no sign of a return of the dreaded vibration, I'm pleased to say!

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On 4/7/2023 at 9:40 PM, Comfy said:

just dropped my daughter home....listened for the vibration....tbh - i think its how you drive it (imho) keep the revs high and its smooth (3 of us in the car) low and it vibrates....thats my 2 cents anyway.

I think this is the case, I have always put this "feature" down to the engines lack of torque at low rpm and it courses the clutch to slip a bit as it labouring too much, this is why you see improvement with new clutch. 

In a similar way to other cars if you try to pull away in 3rd gear, they can do it but it has to work very hard. 

I find that if you drive with the revs kept over 2000rpm, you will never see this issue, as I forgot its even a thing, the only time it ever shows up is if the car is fully loaded going up a very steep hill and the revs have dropped down, but you would just change down a gear in this situation as you would with any car. 

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49 minutes ago, Monkeyboy2283 said:

I think this is the case, I have always put this "feature" down to the engines lack of torque at low rpm and it courses the clutch to slip a bit as it labouring too much, this is why you see improvement with new clutch. 

In a similar way to other cars if you try to pull away in 3rd gear, they can do it but it has to work very hard. 

I find that if you drive with the revs kept over 2000rpm, you will never see this issue, as I forgot its even a thing, the only time it ever shows up is if the car is fully loaded going up a very steep hill and the revs have dropped down, but you would just change down a gear in this situation as you would with any car. 

Can't agree! Since the clutch change, the car drives well and the engine is very flexible and is happy driving and low revs in the 2000 rpm area or lower. There was never any evidence of clutch slip.

As I mentioned before, the give away that made me consider it to be a clutch problem, was to find a hill, drive so as to get into the 2000 rpm vibration and slowly depress the clutch. Just before the clutch slips, the vibration stops. Changed the clutch and problem vibration has gone.

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OK - ill try that...just for the record - changing the clutch yourself on these cars is not a difficult job....it is time consuming but not difficult....i would say (having never worked on this car before to this degree) the only difficulty comes from aged, rusty bolts....you just have to take a lof of stuff off to actually get to where you need to!

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  • 4 months later...

I'm struggling to decide whether I am suffering from this issue or not. I get a kind of intermittent "tapping" like a loose heat-shield on an exhaust kind of noise at low rpm when the engine is under moderate to heavy load (e.g. could benefit from a downshift). Yes there are particular resonance points with my car where I hear engine vibration, but I'd class this as a separate issue to the main tapping (which could also be said to sound a bit like a loose cable hitting the body) is definately intermittent.

Do any recordings of this noise exist?

For what it's worth, 10,000 miles ago, at 35,000 miles, there's a note in my car's service file stating "Attend to clutch slipping" (long story but it's literally a file - the service book is competely blank). I will look for evidence of bell housing removal but it may/should have had a new clutch.

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The history of the IQ clutch problem is one of resonance/vibration at about 2000rpm. This was, in our case, very pronounced and worse with the engine under load. I noticed that if I was to drive up a hill at 2000 rpm and slowly depress the clutch, the vibration would be felt on the clutch pedal but would cease just before it slipped. Changing the clutch solved the problem completely. More importantly, this applies to the three cylinder 1 litre model and I wouldn't describe the sound as tapping.

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