Vibration at 2000rpm - again and again

[74hct04]

Thank you We-go.

The vibration in my car occurs at around 1000rpm and is a sort of tapping noise, a bit like a large diesel engine under load at low revs. It's kind of hard to describe but it's almost as if there is a pipe rattling against the bodywork in a way coupled with diesel-like NVH. Pushing the clutch pedal does seem to instantly silence it. I'd really love to know if I am 'in the club' or describing something else and I'd love to hear a recording of someone else's (or make my own somehow).

[efb]

Unless I missed it, no mention of the 1.3 here. I have a highish pitched hum in mine, in all gears between 2-3k revs. It is only under load and disappears immediately when I reduce the pressure on the accelerator pedal. Doesn't bother me too much but a mild irritant. Is this the same issue as most here have? Or something different?

[FROSTYBALLS]

Similar topics merged.

[TebraOno]

On 4/12/2023 at 11:27 AM, Monkeyboy2283 said:

I think this is the case, I have always put this "feature" down to the engines lack of torque at low rpm and it courses the clutch to slip a bit as it labouring too much, this is why you see improvement with new clutch. 

 

i don't see this being an issue considering my Aygo 1.0 2005 does the same thing but at around 1300-1500rpm when it gets below 1300 to like 1200 - 1000 there is no vibration, shake or anything, the car works perfectly

[We-go]

I had a 2010 Aygo Blue and ran it for 94k miles and never had a problem with the clutch or vibration or the need to replace it. I bought a 2015 1Ltr manual IQ which is a lovely car to drive and has only 50k miles on the clock. It did, however, have that annoying vibration a 2k revs. I decided that it had to be the clutch after this test. Drive up a hill at 2k revs in the vibration zone. Slowly depress the clutch. I feel the vibration on my foot but it disappears just before the clutch slips. I had the clutch replaced at my local, Knaresborough, branch, and problem solved. It was expensive but well worth it.

[TebraOno]

9 hours ago, We-go said:

It was expensive but well worth it.

yeah, well my aygo has 125 000 miles haha, i need to change oil and spark plugs and then i'll take it to the mechanic to see what he says and what would be the price if it is a clutch issue

[glimp]

11 hours ago, TebraOno said:

yeah, well my aygo has 125 000 miles haha, i need to change oil and spark plugs and then i'll take it to the mechanic to see what he says and what would be the price if it is a clutch issue

To give you a vague idea of potential cost, according to the service invoices, my iQ had a new clutch assembly in Nov 2021 (before I bought it), fitted by a Toyota main dealer in SE England- £785 inc vat.

[74hct04]

Before all this inflation, Aygos used to be a lot cheaper, due to it being a lot simpler to access the clutch and the use of a simple release bearing, rather than bearing and concentric slave cylinder in one unit. Up until 2021, you'd be paying about £150-£300 for a clutch change. I've no idea how that scales to today's prices...

[TebraOno]

13 hours ago, glimp said:

£785 inc vat

Also would that be without the clutch, just work?

13 hours ago, 74hct04 said:

you'd be paying about £150-£300 for a clutch change

I keep forgetting this is an "IQ" topic mostly, but yeah, so Aygo is easier to work on?  so lets say 300 max for hands + 150-200 for clutch?

 

[glimp]

11 hours ago, TebraOno said:

Also would that be without the clutch, just work?

£785 was for parts & labour, and includes VAT - total cost, in other words.

[74hct04]

I believe the Aygo figures I gave were for parts and labour if memory serves me correctly. Have a look over on the Aygo forum - someone is bound to know...

Aygo only: The free play at the clutch pedal should be checked at and adjusted if required at least once a year to keep wear to a minimum. Normally no tools are required to adjust it.

[TebraOno]

On 1/8/2024 at 4:09 PM, 74hct04 said:

Aygo only: The free play at the clutch pedal should be checked at and adjusted if required at least once a year to keep wear to a minimum. Normally no tools are required to adjust it.

What kind of free play, what does that do, does it make the clutch not disengage or engage fully? Or does it change the bite point?

[cadman2k]

Inflation costs ....around £1400 for this job now in a main dealer.

The 1.0 likes Shell v power unleaded and some noticing much reduced vibration and smoother running of the 3 cyl engine with this fuel

[Dutchrav]

Have same with the BP Ultimate Unleaded fuel.. runs so smooth!

[Cyker]

I found V-Power didn't make that much difference to the 3-pot in my Mk4 Yaris, but BP Ultimate and Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99 Puppies And Kittens Future Stealth Power Atom Ninjas did run noticeably smoother.

[Monkeyboy2283]

I can confirm on my 1L that after having the clutch changed (for an unrelated issue) the vibration has totally gone, mine used to vibrate a lot between 1k and 2k, but as soon as you hit 2k it would drive normally.

So, to me it would confirm that all the vibration is coming from the clutch as that is the only thing that’s changed, but at a cost about £1k to change the clutch, I would not say it’s worth replacing it for this issue unless you are having other issues as well.
 

[We-go]

Steve. I'm sure you won't regret spending the money, once in initial pain in the wallet subsides. You will really enjoy driving your IQ and find it so much more relaxing.

[Macy 1946]

Hi all, 

I'm new to this wonderful forum and thought I better say hello. I'm Macy ,and i'm in Northumberland U.K.

A, few days ago I bought a 2009 IQ 1.0 petrol, sure enough it has the dreaded 2000rpm vibration. 

Well coming from a Merc C class avenguard, I just can't stand the racket so I have ordered a LuK clutch kit, gear oil, and a few other bits that are showing their age. First job tomorrow is empty the pit which for the last 45years has been used as storage, goodness knows what's down there.

Anyway I shall let you guys know how it goes once I start.

          Cheers all.........Ray Macy.

[glimp]

Welcome, Ray. You're clearly a mechanic (wish I was). Good luck to you and watch out for rats.

[We-go]

Wish I had the ability and courage to tackle a job like that!

[Macy 1946]

Hi guys,  I was apprenticed @ £2.56p a 40 hr week, sheer abuse when you consider the work one had to do. Eventually qualified AMIMI, then did a bunk and went light engineering for a proper living wage.

Now at age 77, I still keep my hand in working on vintage motorcycles although not so much these days, most of my time is as carer for my disabled wife.

It just seems wacky that the labour is so heavy for the clutch job, quality parts inc good gearbox oil totals out at £150. I'm just going to do a little work when I feel up to it, there's no hurry as we have a good wheelchair accessible Peugeot as backup transport. 

I shall post the progress once I get going.................Be safe everyone.

[glimp]

9 hours ago, glimp said:

Welcome, Ray. You're clearly a mechanic (wish I was). Good luck to you and watch out for rats.

@74hct04 - I see you're confused by the 'rats' comment. It was a response to Ray saying this...

"First job tomorrow is empty the pit which for the last 45 years has been used as storage, goodness knows what's down there."

Keep us updated, @Macy 1946 - I'm sure I'm not the only person who's in awe of your skills mate.

[74hct04]

Sorry, I didn't read the description of the emoji/reaction thingy! It was meant more as an 'oh 'eck, rats!' kinda reaction, rather than to signify any confusion 🙂 @glimp

Anyway, take care everyone and welcome to the club @Macy 1946

[Cyker]

6 hours ago, Macy 1946 said:

It just seems wacky that the labour is so heavy for the clutch job, quality parts inc good gearbox oil totals out at £150. I'm just going to do a little work when I feel up to it, there's no hurry as we have a good wheelchair accessible Peugeot as backup transport. 

TBH it's not that surprising when you know what's involved - The gearbox has to come out, or at least be separated from the engine, and in a FWD car that means the wheels and driveshafts have to come out and anything in the way - Brake calipers, gear linkages, suspension arms, struts etc. also need to be loosened or removed. It's a lot of work, which is why it's often recommended to replace any other components in the area while it's all out, and why it's a good idea to replace all clutch components and not just e.g. the friction disc, even if the other parts aren't that worn.

 

[Macy 1946]

10 hours ago, Cyker said:

TBH it's not that surprising when you know what's involved - The gearbox has to come out, or at least be separated from the engine, and in a FWD car that means the wheels and driveshafts have to come out and anything in the way - Brake calipers, gear linkages, suspension arms, struts etc. also need to be loosened or removed. It's a lot of work, which is why it's often recommended to replace any other components in the area while it's all out, and why it's a good idea to replace all clutch components and not just e.g. the friction disc, even if the other parts aren't that worn.